Questions about J Frames

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Hey guys/gals, I'm new here and have some questions. I belong to a few other gun forums but thought my questions might be best answered here. I'm kind of the go to guy in our family when it comes to guns, so a relative asked me if I could find him a good deal on a used J frame .38, preferably a Model 36. I haven't done much research on S&W revolvers in a while as even though I own a couple, I'm more of semi-auto guy, but do know I don't want a newer model with the lock, so I'd not try to find one for someone else either. Anyway, I assume the dash models are somewhat of a refinement on the previous designation, ie: 36-4 is the 4th upgrade of a 36 no dash, and that the dash numbers are consecutive as in there was a -1,2,3 before a -4. Is this correct and can someone tell me when model 36s became rated for +P ammo? I assume the +P rating had its own dash number also. If you're so inclined, I'd like to know what upgrades the dash numbers refer to as well.
 
Welcome to the forum.
You are pretty much correct about the dash numbers. Each one notes a change of some kind from the previous. I don't have my SCSW with me to look at all the M36 changes. As for as +Ps go, most people consider any model marked S&W OK for +Ps. You might want to carry them in the gun more than shooting them all the time. That seems to be the norm for a lot of people. Hope this helps.
 
36-9 indicates the switch to the "magnum" size frame, which corresponds with factory approval of +P loads.
 
Not just for the 36, but for all S&W "model" numbered revolvers it should be safe to fire +P ammo. But usually, the smaller the frame the faster the wear and usually the more felt recoil (not that you're going to easily wear out a Smith).
If you plan on shooting +P... practice with it, so you know how your follow up shots will fare if you need to use the gun in a defense situation.
I don't believe in just practicing with one type of ammo and then carrying another. You will feel a difference and especially in the J frame models.
 
The dash numbers for the model 36 are a little different that most models. The model 36-1 with a 3" heavy barrel was introduced in 1965 yet the model 36 (no dash) with 2" and 3" regular barrels continued to be produced for many years concurrently with the 36-1.
 
Agree with the "if it's a smith with a model no. it's good with +P". I carry +P in my model 60's (and snub 66 too), but think the short tube velocity loss negates the +p rating (throw eggs now). The +p rounds I carry are 158 grn. SWC. I want the heavy slug more that the velocity. Anyway, my .02. BTW, I've got a big soft spot for S&W J frames.
 
Welcome to the forum. There are a lot people on the forum that are very fond of the J frame. The Mod 36 is a great little revolver. Your decision will be whether to get the 2" or 3" barell and whether to get the blued or nickel version. As mentioned any S&W with a Mod number should be Ok for +P. I have a 2" nickel version of a 36 no dash that is easy to conceal carry, either IWB or pocket holster.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I love the little 36, a great little revolver. I inherited one from my dad several years ago, but sold it because I just didn't have a use for it. I already had several revolvers and autos for carry and just didn't need it. I wish now that I'd kept it. I've sold or traded a few guns and that's the only one I regret getting rid of. I may be on the hunt for two, one for my relative and one for myself as well.
 
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Agree with the "if it's a smith with a model no. it's good with +P". I carry +P in my model 60's (and snub 66 too), but think the short tube velocity loss negates the +p rating (throw eggs now). The +p rounds I carry are 158 grn. SWC. I want the heavy slug more that the velocity. Anyway, my .02. BTW, I've got a big soft spot for S&W J frames.

I look at like this: In a short barrel, +P pushes the bullet up toward what standard pressure ammo velocities are in a 4 or 6inch barrel, so that you can get standard pressure performance out of a snubby.
 
A good investment for you would be the Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson. Check your local book stores.
 
so a relative asked me if I could find him a good deal on a used J frame .38, preferably a Model 36. I haven't done much research on S&W revolvers in a while as even though I own a couple, I'm more of semi-auto guy, but do know I don't want a newer model with the lock, .

I currently own 10 prelock S&Ws so my opinion may be worth something.

I would not hesitate to fire +P through any steel frame Smith.

My favorite older J frame is a model 49 (shrouded hammer )

Used J frames in very good condition seem to be running from
$375 to $ 500 depending on how pretty they look. :)

.
 
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