Questions re: applying Tru Oil

snowman

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I reviewed MAG-NUM's refinishing thread more than once, but still have a few questions which that thread didn't address. There were a couple differences between his situation and mine. His grips were checkered; mine are the Presentation type. He used Tru Oil from an aerosol can; I have the bottle. Now for the questions:

-How do you folks hold the grips when applying the stuff with your finger, so that there are no prints anywhere when you are finished? The only way I can think of would be to use the screw to hold them, threading it into the grip with the threaded hole, and pulling it through until the head is seated on the other grip, and grasping it firmly next to the inside of the grip(probably clear as mud here). MAG-NUM didn't have this issue; he placed both grips on small pieces of wood and sprayed them from the aerosol can.

-After you coat them, is there any trick to placing them on a flat surface to dry without getting prints/marks on any of the edges?

-Is is necessary to mask off the medallions when applying Tru Oil with your finger, or can you just carefully rub around the outside, and if you get any on the medallion just take it off with thinner or something afterward?

-I gather that you don't rub this product in, like the old Linspeed finish. It sounds to me like you just spread it around with your finger, then let it dry. Is that correct?

Pardon my ignorance; obviously I have no experience here.

Thank you for your help.
Andy
 
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You have a pretty good idea of what you need to do. When I am finishing grips I use the grip screw to hold one side at a time, I start with the non-theaded side, pulling it though till the screw head butts up against the shoulder in the grip. After I finish with that grip I let it drop on a flat surface to dry, the screw pops up and can be threaded into the other grip panel. I try not to put any tru-oil on the emblem but it really doesn't matter that much, many of the S&W grips came with finish on them from the factory. I hope I've answered your questions.

Good luck,
Steve
 
I have a flat stick, the thickness of the frame and about a foot long that I "mount" the grips on. I can hold the stick in one hand while applying the TruOil, and with a hole drilled in the far end of the stick, I just hang it up inside my vault as it is pretty dust free. When I apply, I dip my finger in the bottle and spread it around, doesn't take too much. Then I rub it out with the heel of my hand and hang to dry for 24 hours. Rub slightly with 0000 steel wool, dry with a tack rag, then recoat with TruOil again. Wait another 24 hours. Repeat the process for up to 7 coats of TruOil, then let dry for 7 days. Mix up a slurry of "Rotten Stone" and mineral oil to a paste and rub out the grips, and it will give you a very rich finish while knocking down the high shine. Gives a rich deep hand rubbed look. When all done and satisfied, I give a coat of wax. Either Renaissance Wax, or a good carnuba based paste wax.
 
Way to much heavy lifting going on here. Lightly sand outer surfaces with 200 grit 3m sanding pad. I use a little compressed air to blow it off. Don't have a compressor, use a can of computer air. Lightly apply oil to checkering and scrub in with a tooth brush till it starts getting sticky.
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Grasp with thumb and fore finger and apply to smooth surfaces. The FBI will never find your prints on the checkering. Let dry 24 hours, apply one more coat the same way. Do not do the checkering unless it looks dry. 24 hours later a light sanding with 400 3M sanding pad. XXX synthetic steel wool and a little hard paste wax and rub into the smooth surfaces with the XXX , use clean tooth brush to rub wax evenly over the checkering and smooth area. Let dry an hour, buff with shoe brush, rub out with a terry cloth towel.
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If you get caught using your wifes tooth brush and good towels it's on you. If you want a glossy finish forget the XXX and do multiple applications and sanding between each coat till you get what you want. You are only sanding to dull the surface. I use a cotton ball to apply the oil. Good luck.:)
DW
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Thanks, fellas. DWFan, see my original post -I'm doing Presentations, not the checkered type. Hence the questions on leaving prints.

Andy
 
DWFAN

In the photo I notice an open bottle of Casey True Oil and was wondering if the old product "Linspeed" is still on the market? Is the Casey product similar? Don't want to hijack the thread, and appreciate the answers already given.
 
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Gotcha. Set it down then fill in where your thumb was, right?

Andy

Pretty much. I oil it all down, even were my thumb is, lift thumb, one swipe with it on the pads of my finger tips and then set the butt edge down and slide my fingers out towards the top. I've only ever dropped one.:)
DW
 
"Linspeed"

Thank you DWFAN, I have, long ago, used this product with very acceptable results but haven't seen it for sale around here lately. I sent an E mail concerning other matters to you if you are not too busy for a couple new projects. Really appreciate your reply and the link.
 
Sam,

Maybe we could compare notes; I did a rifle stock with Linspeed close to 40 years ago. I remember having to rub that stuff in with the heel of my hand -was a lot of work, as I recall. Then I would wait for days for each coat to dry.

Maybe I was doing it wrong, but knowing how carefully I've always read instructions, I tend to doubt it. With this Tru Oil all you do is spread it around like you do with paint, until it covers the grip/stock.

Andy
 
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