Quick question on nickel finish

Mstorm

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Saw a Model 19-3 in nickel today on offer that seemed in pretty good condition with a reasonable price ($750). But about 1/2" from the tip of the barrel there was what I can best describe as maybe like an orange peel or some sort of crusty stuff (still in nickel) that was in the shape of about a 1/4" rough elipse. At first I thought it was just some sort of crud but it did not seem to want to wipe off. I wish that I'd felt comfortable enough to take photos. Unlike on a blued gun that had lost its finish this little area that again was roughly a 1/4" inch eliptical shape felt sorta rough to the touch vs smooth like on a blued gun lacking its finish. You guys have any idea what that could possibly be?? My concern was: Is rust going to eventually form under this rough area. Wish this question sounded clearer. My thanks in advance for your response
 
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Ask shop if he would wipe that with Flitz, and see if it removes.
If he is hesitant, he can just put some on his finger and wipe over it with his finger.
Flitz wont hurt the finish, and if that spot doesn't go away ( whatever it is- would have to see it) I wouldn't be interested. It can be a couple of things.

If it is a defect in the nickel, I personally wouldn't want it.

Just my .02
 
I agree, gently clean the offending area with Flitz. If it is flaking nickel or possibly the nickel has been worn away from the muzzle, it can be maintained with oil or wax. Now, is this a factory nickel finish? If allowed, remove the left side grip panel and check the lower are of the grip frame, if the is an "N" stamped into the frame, it's factory nickel. "RN" indicates a factory refinish in nickel. No "N" or "RN" would indicate it's an aftermarket plating.

If the hammer and trigger are plated, it's likely an aftermarket refinish. If the extractor star is plated, guaranteed it's an aftermarket refinish. The issue with some aftermarket refinishes is the quality of the plating and did they plate directly onto the steel like S&W did or did they apply an intermediate layer of copper? A copper layer makes the nickel susceptible to flaking and peeling when the ammonia in many solvents finds a way under the nickel.
 
It might be the nickel plating is beginning to lift and bubble.

Nickel plating has a thin layer of copper under it. If a previous owner used a solvent with ammonia made to attack copper, which you should never use on a nickel plated firearm, the solvent can attack that copper layer. That will allow the nickel to lift, bubble and flake.
 
Walter O is correct, Colt did use a copper plating under their highly polished, bright nickel finish. S&W never did, they just polished the steel to as perfect of a smoothness as humanely possible and applied the nickel directly to the steel. As I previously mentioned, some aftermarket refinishers may also use a copper intermediate layer to fill in imperfections.
 
Does it look like this 🤨

Here is rust I found after buying this 19-5 off Gunbroker.
If it’s crusty, it most likely has come up thru the nickel.
The guy that sent me this gun had 20+ pictures of the gun,
But forgot to add the picture of this.
 

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All nickel guns are bad---and some are worse than others---never mind I had one-------once.

It's jaundiced views such as that, that keep you safe from nickel guns---and never mind they sure are pretty---right up until they're not!!


Ralph Tremaine
 
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Thanks to all---you folks are the best. Every time I ask a question, I get an invaluable primer, this is a great forum.
I did in fact, pass on that gun. To quote a movie line: "Where there is a doubt, there is no doubt"
From what I learned however it further reinforced that I'm going to have to be super careful in the cleaning process of the Nickel S&W Model 13 I bought a month ago---it has yet to return from my gunsmith (he's an artist and art takes time).
 
Thanks to all---you folks are the best. Every time I ask a question, I get an invaluable primer, this is a great forum.
I did in fact, pass on that gun. To quote a movie line: "Where there is a doubt, there is no doubt"
From what I learned however it further reinforced that I'm going to have to be super careful in the cleaning process of the Nickel S&W Model 13 I bought a month ago---it has yet to return from my gunsmith (he's an artist and art takes time).
I would not say you need to be super careful in cleaning a factory nickel finished Model 13. I would not soak one in solvent, but cleaning the bore, chambers and exterior with Hoppes No. 9, then using dry patches and cloth to remove the solvent will do no harm to the nickel.
 
Thanks to all---you folks are the best. Every time I ask a question, I get an invaluable primer, this is a great forum.
I did in fact, pass on that gun. To quote a movie line: "Where there is a doubt, there is no doubt"
From what I learned however it further reinforced that I'm going to have to be super careful in the cleaning process of the Nickel S&W Model 13 I bought a month ago---it has yet to return from my gunsmith (he's an artist and art takes time).


Here is a picture of my nickel 19-3 that I have cleaned with Hoppes using the same procedure I use for every other gun I own, since 1977. Hoppes won't hurt nickel Smith & Wesson revolvers.

S&W M-19 357 (1).jpg

S&W M-19 357 (2).jpg
 
I would not say you need to be super careful in cleaning a factory nickel finished Model 13. I would not soak one in solvent, but cleaning the bore, chambers and exterior with Hoppes No. 9, then using dry patches and cloth to remove the solvent will do no harm to the nickel.

I bought my Nickel plated Model 19 new around 1983. I have fired thousands of rounds through it. Hundreds of times I have cleaned it. I use only Hoppes #9 solvent. Now you say the nickel plating is going to be damaged by my cleaning - when exactly will that happen?
 

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I bought my Nickel plated Model 19 new around 1983. I have fired thousands of rounds through it. Hundreds of times I have cleaned it. I use only Hoppes #9 solvent. Now you say the nickel plating is going to be damaged by my cleaning - when exactly will that happen?
I did not say that the factory nickel finish would be damaged by Hoppes No 9. I said I would not soak one in solvent, as in submerge and leave, I also said cleaning with No 9, then wiping off the solvent with patches and rag was fine. Hoppes No 9 does not provide a good protective layer, so it does need to be wiped off and then apply oil or wax to prevent any corrosion.
 
I did not say that the factory nickel finish would be damaged by Hoppes No 9. I said I would not soak one in solvent, as in submerge and leave, I also said cleaning with No 9, then wiping off the solvent with patches and rag was fine. Hoppes No 9 does not provide a good protective layer, so it does need to be wiped off and then apply oil or wax to prevent any corrosion.


I've never done anything with oil or wax other than use appropriate chemicals appropriately. I think you have no experience and are making unsubstantiated claims.
 
If it is the Nickel starting to lift and delaminate, leave it there! Having a Nickel gun refinished today is a hassle, expensive, takes a long time and shipping is also a pain in the butt. NOT worth it if issues are present - they will only get worse, not better!
 
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