Randall Attack Model 18

I'd say the blade material is a personal choice. I 'think' the Randall web page would explain the expected tradeoffs of the two materials i.e. edge retention, corrosion resistance etc.
Their non-stainless is great BUT if you don't wipe it off and expose it to a harsh environment it WILL start to rust[they do a GREAT repair at the shop if it isn't too severe BTW]!
 
I've got one with almost every option you can order for a Model 18: Stainless 7.5" blade, knurled handle, compass, and black sheath. I didn't opt for the blade etching. The knife feels good in my hand and the knurling really helps with a good grip.

wjUjRqn.jpg
 
Last edited:
I've owned a number of Model 18s and I'll always check one out if it shows up. I have a 5.5" stainless 18, with sawteeth, that has significant pitting on the blade. I got this one from Nordic Knives for a pretty good price because of the condition. It's rare for the stainless blades to pit or corrode but it does happen.

My other "special" 18 is an early one that at some point was sent back to Randall to have the screw cap installed (if only it had the original crutch-tip!) and a new sheath made (the heat and humidity of SEA is hell on steel and leather, even if properly maintained). I bought it from the patriot who used it in Vietnam and subsequent "assignments." The blade is carbon steel with peculiar stains and pitting.

More than a few of my 18s, 14s, 15s and #1s went to APO/FPOs in the early 90's. Randall set up a special production line just for basic military models to be sold to active duty personnel--even then they were often in short supply.

If you're looking for a new one, Gary Clinton (Clinton Knives) offers new knives at current catalog prices IF he has it in stock. Otherwise you can put in an order and he'll deliver it ASAP at current catalog price. Waiting time on a new knife from RMK is 5 years.
 
BTW, to answer your questions--Stainless is much easier to maintain but it can corrode. If you can sharpen a knife, either steel is good.

The 5.5" blade is much more popular with airmen for obvious reasons--much more compact and easier to carry but still a very stout blade that can be counted on.

Sawteeth are cut for metals and/or plexiglass type substances, no offset kerf for wood. Even with a 7.5" blade there's not much saw to work with.

Knurling on the handle looks good in a display case but most of the actually used/carried knives I've owned have had paracord, snare wire, fishing line, etc wrapped around the handle and one or two were wrapped with tape over that to keep it in place. Now days, with the popularity of paracord slings, belts, bracelets (LOL!) there are other options for having some handy but wrapping the handle with cord and stashing some fishing line and hooks, matches, water purification tablets, etc in the handle is still a worthwhile precaution for an actual using knife.
 
I don't own a Randall, but I remember working with various stainless steels and carbon steel during my days in the machining and investment casting trade. Most, if not all, of the firearms and knives that are advertised as stainless steel are 400 series, and are magnetic. They will corrode in harsh environments, but can be heat treated fairly hard. The carbon steel firearms and knives not rust resistant at all, but can be heat treated really hard, but the harder they get, the easier they are to break or chip. The 300 series SS is really good at corrosion resisting, but can't be properly heat treated for hardness, and is non magnetic. If you like to read technical papers, do some research on the 400 series SS and how to properly heat treat it. It's both art and science.

Have a blessed day,

Leon
 
Last edited:
After 20 years of jokingly pestering him about it, my father gave me his crutch tip Model 18 Attack for Christmas this last year. It is a great, well used knife and very valuable to collectors. It is carbon steel with a Johnson rough back sheath.

The current production knives are great as well, but I prefer the Model 14, as I don't really need the sawteeth or hollow handle. I prefer carbon on most Randalls, but I'd probably go stainless on a Model 18. I would definitely opt for the knurling.

I second the recommendation on ordering from Gary Clinton. My father was good friends with his father, Tom, who founded Clinton Knives, and I've known Gary since I was an infant. Tom used to travel to gun shows across the country with tables full of new and used Randalls. Times have changed, and I think it's pretty difficult even for the very few authorized Randall dealers to keep much stock on hand.
 
Last edited:
I’ve got a #18 5 1/2”. Knurled handle, stainless steel blade and saw teeth. My #1 has a 7” blade, and I just don’t think the blade design of the 18 is right for a long blade. It’s a working knife, and I’ve always been very happy with it . . .
 
If you like it and want it, buy it. Oliver Wendell Holmes, Jr. had something to say on property. Life, Liberty, and the pursuit, basically.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top