Re-Color Case treating hammer

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I have a model 57 hammer that needs case colored as from the edge of frame down to the hammer has become very shiny showing no coloring. Who would any of you recommend sending this to and would the process require re-fitting the hammer to the revolver.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
 
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Turnbull would be my first choice but I understand that Turnbull has stopped working on Smiths. I don't know of another shop that does first rate color case hardening.

Be sure you know what process your final choice uses: you don't want a paint job. The paint on process has frequently been used to restore Parker shotguns. It results in a flashy blue, yellow and gray streaked surface finish on the surface, but offers no actual case color or added hardness you get from a proper job.

A proper case coloring job won't require additional fitting: it doesn't add material to the parts as things like ceracote finish does.
 
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Turnbull would be my first choice but I understand that Turnbull has stopped working on Smiths. I don't know of another shop that does first rate color case hardening.

Be sure you know what process your final choice uses: you don't want a paint job. The paint on process has frequently been used to restore Parker shotguns. It results in a flashy blue, yellow and gray streaked surface finish on the surface, but offers no actual case color or added hardness you get from a proper job.

A proper case coloring job won't require additional fitting: it doesn't add material to the parts as things like ceracote finish does.

AFAIK Turnb won't restore/polish/reblue S&W revolvers. Never did. Took too long.
We always took in the hammers and triggers for CCH work. Maybe that has changed now. Maybe he wants them pre-polished when received, he always did like that type of quick turn over work.
Worth a call to see what they're up to now.
Don't be surprised if they have a Minimum Charge as well.

CCH parts SHOULD drop right back into place IF they don't warp.
Any parts done through the 1430F process and into the quench have the possibility of that, but it's pretty much under control.
The colors are Microns thick. The hardness (case) is anywhere from nothing at all to a few .000 deep.

I'm not familiar with the 'Paint On' color process used on some Parkers. The Japanese made Repro's used a proprietary method of faux case colors. Something like what Ruger used (still using?).
A chemical coloring but w/o any heat being involved or if there is it's very minimal.
(DTR tried to get Ruger to buy him out of his CCH process in the early 90's for Rugers exclusive use on their firearms. But Ruger wasn't interested at the 7 figure price tag.)

Those chemical colorings all wear off fairly easy. The repro Parkers are not surface hardened under the false colors. They are made of a modern steel more than suitible for the guns. They do respond to the hi-temp furnace bone/wood charcoal CCH process.

Orig Meriden CT Parkers were Bone/Wood charcoal colorcase hardened.
When Remington took over, they had them Cyanide color hardened.
You can tell the difference in the two appearance wise.
Cyanide hardening seems to go deeper,just from experience and takes a longer annealing draw to remove it.
 
Thanks For the replies. Sounds like I need a high end machine shop that knows how to color case or as stated buy another hammer.
Much appreciated.
 
hammer

Just fixed a nickel M-27 that had a non factory renickel. As usual they nickeled the hammer and trigger. Bought a used hammer ($35.00) and trigger ($10.00) at a gunshow and replaced the nickel ones.
SWCA 892
 
You got me curious so I starting looking into doing CCH at home. There are chemicals to simulate it without any heat at all, however like others have already said, - the simple, easy and most practical way is just to buy another part. It's a hell of a lot cheaper and would be much faster.
 
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What chemicals are used. Seems like that would be the easy process, but I would replace the parts. Just got a target hammer for a revolver for $30 to give an idea of cost vs paying to have it done.
 
What chemicals are used. Seems like that would be the easy process, but I would replace the parts. Just got a target hammer for a revolver for $30 to give an idea of cost vs paying to have it done.

Probably a whole lot more than $30 bucks! It just doesn't pay! Just get another part.
 
There are problems in re-casing any small part. Warpage is almost inevitable to some degree and there is a risk that the hardening will penetrate too deeply in the thinner areas causing embrittlement and possible breakage. Smith had the process down to a science but even they had to recalibrate the process for each batch of steel they bought. Bone charcoal packed case hardening is not an exact science and can be really problematic if you don't know the exact metallurgy of the part you are working on. I speak from lots of personal experience!
 
Some of the CCH done around today is color but w/o a very deep 'case' and often no hardness at all.
Avoiding warping and even cracking on some parts can be done by some manipulation of the processes and still getting the colors.
But the very important hardness can be lost.
Many (most?) people just seem to be in love with the colors anyway.

There are a lot of Case Colored guns out there that have no hardness at all to the surfaces.
 
Everyone, really appreciate all the answers. Sounds like the best course is to try and find a good used hammer. I will hang onto the one in the gun now and perhaps down the road I can find the right person to fix it properly.
 
Brian Lohman's shop in Houston does a great job -- look it up at lohmangunsmith.com. I've been very happy with all of the work done there.
 

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