FifthWheel
US Veteran
May soon be looking at a Smith & Wesson Military & Police .32-20 and the finish looks very good. How can I tell if it has been refinished. It's nickel.
Thank you.
Thank you.
Re-nickeled?
- Thread starter FifthWheel
- Start date
gwpercle
Member
Post a bunch of up close and in focus photo's , these fellows will spot a refinish . Make sure they are in focus.
I thought I had a refinished top break, it looked to perfect not to be. Posted some photo's and everyone agreed...it was the original finish, the gun was just in good condition.
They can tell !
Gary
I thought I had a refinished top break, it looked to perfect not to be. Posted some photo's and everyone agreed...it was the original finish, the gun was just in good condition.
They can tell !
Gary
The biggest things I look for is a plated hammer or trigger, blurred or "soft" stampings, rounded edges, pitting under plating, different finish or appearance under the stocks on the butt-frame, and being able to see the seam around the sideplate.
S&W hardly ever plated hammers and triggers and only did so for special orders. Stampings are normally very sharp in appearance and very easy to read, buffing will dish any stamping and excessive sanding will lighten them to the point that you cannot read them. If there are any pits or depressions in the metal under the plating, it has been redone. Many refinishers will not clean up the areas under the stocks and there may be bluing under the stocks of re-nickeled gun. If a gun is refinished while the sideplate is off the gun, the edges will dish and the seam will show plainly. Those seams on original finish guns are almost invisible.
S&W hardly ever plated hammers and triggers and only did so for special orders. Stampings are normally very sharp in appearance and very easy to read, buffing will dish any stamping and excessive sanding will lighten them to the point that you cannot read them. If there are any pits or depressions in the metal under the plating, it has been redone. Many refinishers will not clean up the areas under the stocks and there may be bluing under the stocks of re-nickeled gun. If a gun is refinished while the sideplate is off the gun, the edges will dish and the seam will show plainly. Those seams on original finish guns are almost invisible.
OP
FifthWheel
US Veteran
The biggest things I look for is a plated hammer or trigger, blurred or "soft" stampings, rounded edges, pitting under plating, different finish or appearance under the stocks on the butt-frame, and being able to see the seam around the sideplate.
Thanks glowe. I'd say with this info it's probably original as sideplate,hammer and trigger pass. If I get it pics will be posted.
Plus, ejector star should not be plated.
Regards,
Bruce
Regards,
Bruce
OP
FifthWheel
US Veteran
Plus, ejector star should not be plated.
Regards,
Bruce
Thank you!
Attachments
One more thing, make sure the stocks on the revolver are serial numbered to the gun. As a collector piece, the wrong stocks will really affect the valuation. Depending on age, they are either written in pencil or stamped.
