Reaming Chambers

[Phenix]

I have been loaned a chamber reaming and polishing tool for .22 LR revolver chambers.
Is it okay to use it on chambers in an aluminum cylinder?
I ask because I do not know whether or not the chambers in aluminum cylinders have some kind of hard, clear, transparent coating to retard corrosion and wear in the softer metal as compared to steel.

 

[alwslate]

I had a S&W model 317 for a while. Very lightweight , Aluminum frame and cyl. I wondered about wear in the cyl chambers but didn't see any in several hundred rounds of ammo. Chambers were very smooth and I feel sure that they were hard anodized to eliminate wear from the .22 ammo cases and bullets. I would not use a reamer on those chambers.

 

[chief38]

Why not call the Reamer manufacturer as ask them. I am not really familiar with working on Aluminum but calling the revolver manufacturer as well might be worth the effort. Between the two of them you might get some direction.

 

[Lou_NC]

Several years ago I reamed my 317 cylinder with excellent results (along with several other S&W, Ruger, Taurus and Rossi carbon steel and stainless cylinders). Frankly I never worried about any coating inside the 317 cylinder chambers, since I figured routine use and subsequent cleaning would likely disrupt any such coating if it were indeed ever present in the chambers in the first place.

I have not seen any signs of corrosion or ill effects of reaming the 317 cylinder chambers, and would do it again in a heartbeat.

Lou

 

[Phenix]

Several years ago I reamed my 317 cylinder with excellent results (along with several other S&W, Ruger, Taurus and Rossi carbon steel and stainless cylinders). Frankly I never worried about any coating inside the 317 cylinder chambers, since I figured routine use and subsequent cleaning would likely disrupt any such coating if it were indeed ever present in the chambers in the first place.

I have not seen any signs of corrosion or ill effects of reaming the 317 cylinder chambers, and would do it again in a heartbeat.

Lou

Thanks for the info.

 

[freight_train]

After a great experience reaming my 617's steel cylinder, and a PM from a forum member who did his 317 and noticed no ill effects, I went ahead and reamed my vintage '70s model 43 aluminum cylinder. It had super tight insertion, sticky extraction but not super bad. It actually often seemed easier to extract than insert. Because the tough insertion was taking a lot of enjoyment out of shooting this revolver and I bought it to shoot rather than as an investment, I took the risk.

I used the reamer from Manson Precision, which i bought rather than borrowing the forum loaner. Used their Viper's Venom cutting fluid. I found a small prescription bottle was just right to fill enough fluid to dip the reamer into repeatedly.

The process shaved a pretty good amount of metal. I'd brush it off and wipe the reamer off with a shop towel after several turns. Didn't take very long at all.

I took the 43 to the range today. For insertion, I'm super happy. Rounds fall right in, just like every centerfire revolver I've ever had. I used to have to push the rounds in. That's over. Accuracy seems the same if I do my part. The curious part is extraction. I would say it's approximately as sticky as it was before. Not worse, but not really better either. I might lightly polish the chambers and see if that makes a difference. The gun is more fun to shoot now so I'm glad I did it. Will post an update in a year as to any problems.