Rebluing/cost quality??

[Model29-26.5]

Say I wanted to get an early 70’s 27-2 re blued.
Polish out a couple of scratches etc.

What kind of $$ am I looking at?

Who would do the best job getting it to the best shiny blued finish?

Cost to get it looking pristine again if possible?
Cost to get it looking pretty darn good?

I have no experience whatsoever with this so any info on re-bluing, cost/quality and who does a great job/excellent job/budget job?


Thanks for all and any help.

 

[K-22]

Ford’s

Say I wanted to get an early 70’s 27-2 re blued.
Polish out a couple of scratches etc.

What kind of $$ am I looking at?

Who would do the best job getting it to the best shiny blued finish?

Cost to get it looking pristine again if possible?
Cost to get it looking pretty darn good?

I have no experience whatsoever with this so any info on re-bluing, cost/quality and who does a great job/excellent job/budget job?


Thanks for all and any help.

Google Ford’s Gun Refinishing.
Best,
Gary

 

[6string]

Be VERY careful how you decide to proceed!

-It would be a good idea to use the search tool on this forum to investigate the experiences of other members. The S&W Forum is one of your best research and education resources!

-Ask yourself if you really need to have a refinish done? It’s not like a leaky water pipe in your basement, or worn brakes in your car, that can cause further damage or other risks if left unattended. Sometimes it’s best to leave well enough alone!

-Educate yourself on the telltale signs that discerning collectors use to identify refinish work. Once you have acquired an eye for things like softened edges, dished screw holes, flat surfaces that are no longer flat, faded rollmarks, ruined mating of formerly close fitting parts, etc, you may come to the conclusion that a refinish is worse than a damaged original finish, especially if the damage is just honest wear.

-Keep in mind that finish work of any nature, in any medium, using any technique is all about surface preparation. That preparation is labor intensive with an extremely high level of required skill. In the firearms world, far too often the substitute is heavy polishing using bench mounted buffers and an aggressive touch. The best methods, and the slowest and most expensive, are strictly by hand.
Busy shops will use the former method, quickly getting off the old finish and making things shiney. For them, time is money. The result is an irreversibly defaced gun and the insult of having to pay a stiff pricetag for the job. (Cough, Ford’s gun refinishing , cough…search this forum. You’ve been warned.)
Conversely, the latter method (careful hand work) will possibly cost you even more than the original purchase price of the gun.

-A refinish invariably devalues the gun. So, keep in mind you’ll be paying money to make your gun worth less money. Sometimes, if you just can’t live with the existing condition of your gun, the best advice, especially if it is a fairly common gun like a 1970s model 27-2, is to sell the one you have and add the extra money to get the one you want.
The amount of money spent pursuing this path will often be much less than any money spent on a refinish. Plus, you’ll own an honest high condition gun that you’ll be happier with, and at the same time, yield a better return on your investment.

 

[rct269]

6string speaks with straight tongue!

THE BEST use of your money is to sell the gun you're fretting over, and buy a better one. Is that the lowest net cost path? Maybe, maybe not; but it's guarandamnteed to be the one with NO risk----and guarandamnteed to get you a gun that makes you happy.

There was a time when the factory refinished guns. The quality of their refinish was exactly the same as the quality of regular production---and the cost was lunch money. Those times are gone to the best of my knowledge. So too there was a time when Fords turned out absolutely exquisite work. That time was when the prep work was done by hand.

There are most certainly shops that CAN turn out top quality work, but there are NO guarantees.

Me? I like guarantees.

I've had two guns refinished (from Satin blue to Bright Blue)---both by the factory. I KNEW exactly what I was going to get---and I got it. That was then, and now is now. Now the only guarantee comes with getting a gun that makes you happy before you pay for it.

The bottom line is there are NO do-overs for a poorly refinished gun---it is what it is-----and it can only get worse.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[StrawHat]

Here is a recent thread that might interest you.

She's Back!

It seems to be a success story.

Kevin

 

[stansdds]

Ultimately, it's your gun and you can do with it whatever you want, but just know that refinishing will reduce the value of your Model 27-2.

S&W's current bluing is far from what your Model 27-2 received. Your Model 27-2 was blued using the Carbonia oil blue system. S&W's current blue is not blue, but is black and does not withstand solvents that contain ammonia as well as their pre-2000 black oxide or Carbonia blue finishes.

How about posting some pictures so we can see the condition of your 27-2.

 

[first-model]

To my knowledge there is only one company out there (Turnbull's) that does what I would consider to be manufacturer-grade refinishes. But I'm not sure that they're accepting Smith & Wessons for work, and even if they did the cost would almost certainly be in the four figures and would exceed the value of the gun.

I've yet to see a refinishing job from Ford's that didn't stick out like a sore thumb. Ford's is to gun refinishing what Maaco is to automotive paint work.

Long story short: having your 27-2 refinished will diminish its value, and you'll almost certainly regret it down the road.

Mike

 

[raljr1]

Ok, since no one answered your original question, here is a pricelist from Glenrock Blue. We have seen an example of their work done on a gun belonging to Wiregrassguy.

 

[22hipower]

Cost to get it looking pristine again if possible?

That's the catch, doesn't matter how much you spend, it will never look "pristine" again. Maybe "good enough," maybe "ok" but never "pristine" as when it came out of the factory. I've had several refinished, always a disappointment.

rct269 has the best solution, sell it, buy one in the condition you want.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

 

[rct269]

Here is a recent thread that might interest you.

She's Back!

It seems to be a success story.

Kevin

THIS is INDEED a SUCCESS story-----IF indeed the prep work was done via Bead Blasting instead of polishing--as is the prevailing wisdom.

Bead blasting is as close to idiot proof as you're going to get when it comes to prepping for a finish---and it's not so much a matter of knowledge, skill, and experience as is polishing, but the opportunity to do it over again if deemed necessary. A bead blasted finish is dependent upon media, media size, line pressure, angle of attack and the distance from the nozzle. Given the desire to alter the results, one can simply alter one or more of the variables, and have at it again.

My experience with bead blasting is limited to cleaning engine parts (which is a far cry from prepping for a finish), but I've messed around with it enough to know achieving/altering results is always an option---and options are your friend.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[first-model]

That's the catch, doesn't matter how much you spend, it will never look "pristine" again. Maybe "good enough," maybe "ok" but never "pristine" as when it came out of the factory. I've had several refinished, always a disappointment.

Even if the person having the restoration done doesn't feel disappointment, there will inevitably be disappointment down the line when the gun's next owner realizes that it's a refinished gun and not original.

A ton of guns over the years have been refinished because they "weren't anything special." It may not be special now, but 50 years from now it'll be an absolute treasure. Why ruin it for those people?

Mike

 

[Xfuzz]

Sent this to Ford's couple years back.
About $450-500 then not sure now.
Very pleased.

 

[444 Magnum]

There's been more than one thread of late about over buffing, etc. coming from Ford's.

I'm with the previous posts...live with it or trade up. Don't destroy the originality.

 

[Oldengineer]

My view is that reblue is equivalent to sporterizing a military rifle. You spend the time and money to reduce its value and destroy its original character. A poor practice in my opinion.

 

[Model29-26.5]

Ultimately, it's your gun and you can do with it whatever you want, but just know that refinishing will reduce the value of your Model 27-2.

S&W's current bluing is far from what your Model 27-2 received. Your Model 27-2 was blued using the Carbonia oil blue system. S&W's current blue is not blue, but is black and does not withstand solvents that contain ammonia as well as their pre-2000 black oxide or Carbonia blue finishes.

How about posting some pictures so we can see the condition of your 27-2.

Just a moment...

Really not bad at all, and a little cold blue helped.

 

[DWalt]

I am not an advocate of refinishing guns. I consider it a waste of money that accomplishes nothing. As earlier said, you are paying a lot just to to de-value your gun. I have refinished a great many guns myself that badly needed it, usually by bead blasting, but that didn't cost me much to do as I have access to everything required. No way would I ever pay the stupidly extreme prices Fords, etc., charge.

 

[rct269]

To my knowledge there is only one company out there (Turnbull's) that does what I would consider to be manufacturer-grade refinishes. But I'm not sure that they're accepting Smith & Wessons for work, and even if they did the cost would almost certainly be in the four figures and would exceed the value of the gun.

I've yet to see a refinishing job from Ford's that didn't stick out like a sore thumb. Ford's is to gun refinishing what Maaco is to automotive paint work.

Long story short: having your 27-2 refinished will diminish its value, and you'll almost certainly regret it down the road.

Mike

Turnbulls is, beyond any doubt, THE KING of all the restoration folks (including the refinishers who call themselves restorors). Turnbulls is also not accepting S&W's for such work. I say "not accepting", that knowledge is OLD----years old. If they've altered their position, that's something I don't know about. The reason they don't mess with S&W's is they're in business to make money, and doing restoration/refinishing work on S&W's (hand ejectors) is a losing proposition---unless they charge accordingly---in which case nobody would be sending in S&W's to begin with.

The problem with S&W's is the myriad different surfaces with which they must contend. The factory contends (or at least they did) with this situation with A BUNCH of hard leather polishing wheels---each contoured to a specific surface (or combination of surfaces) on each and every (H.E.) product they have/ever had. I can only imagine the investment they've made in polishing wheels---fair boggles the mind!!

The only alternative available to those who would turn out factory quality work is to polish by hand---and that brings us into the realm of "This is serious business---bring money!" That said, the results are worth it----most especially when compared to those who make do with lesser equipment.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[stansdds]

Just a moment...

Really not bad at all, and a little cold blue helped.

Perhaps you could post some pics of your cold blue touch up? Given the depth of the scratches on the side plate, the corrosion on the frame, restoration could run $600-$700. So you could easily end up putting over $1000 into a revolver that will be worth $800. I'd stick with cold blue and keep it well oiled or waxed and enjoy it as a shooter grade Model 27.

 

[Bald1]

It’s a 27-2. It’s like worrying about the value of a 1984 Ford Taurus. WHO CARES!!!!!! We don’t know circumstances of how OP acquired the gun. If he wants to reblue it, I say have at it. All this talk about values every time this topic comes up is nonsense. I’ve had guns reblued. And I’m happy with them when they’re done. Guys were talking about $100s of dollars here. Not 10s of thousands.

 

[Hawg Rider]

It’s a 27-2. It’s like worrying about the value of a 1984 Ford Taurus. WHO CARES!!!!!! We don’t know circumstances of how OP acquired the gun. If he wants to reblue it, I say have at it. All this talk about values every time this topic comes up is nonsense. I’ve had guns reblued. And I’m happy with them when they’re done. Guys were talking about $100s of dollars here. Not 10s of thousands.

I don't think that I would lump 27-2s into the category of an '84 Ford Taurus! Early '70s versions are extremely well made and finished. The OP didn't provide any info or pictures of his revolver (s/n, bbl. length, etc.)...but it could easily be a $1500+ handgun. Scratches and dings and dents are subjective, so that's also a question. How deeply or badly scratched is the finish? Is the finish worn and/or does it have rust pits? If the finish just shows normal use, most of us would tend to leave it alone and enjoy its history and patina. If you want a NIB unfired collectable- spend the money and buy one. A refinished revolver will never have the same appeal or value. However, as others have said, it's Model29-26.5's revolver and he can do what he likes with it.