Rebluing your own gun

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Niter blueing is usually just for small parts. There is significant risk in this process, not to be take lightly! The video mentioned the melt being around 290 F but nitrate doesn't melt until over 600 degrees and it begins to decompose at around 750 or so. Obviously there is a bit of risk there. I do not know if the temperature is enough to cause any changes in the metal but I'd do some checking on that before I tried it on a gun.
 
I used it before. There can be issues with temperature and also using stainless steel containers. I've been using Mark Lee's Brown #2 for finishing lately. It's easy to do, but time consuming. Heat the cleaned and degreased parts to 12- to 150, apply brown solution a couple of coates, then card with a fine wheel or steel wool and repeat. Once the finish starts gettin to a dark, kind of plum color, boil between applications. The finish will turn black. Continue to heat and apply until you have reached the color and consistency in finish you desire. This worked exceptionally well on a Detective Special and on an old M36 I recently refinished.
 
I am by no means a "smith", but I do have a little experience with my model 15-2 from 1967. It was the first revolver my dad gave to me and I had to have been a couple years before Jr. High or thereabouts. I holstered it a whole lot, and carried it through the woods on many occaision. Long story short, I put it through quite a few hard years. This was before I thought it would ever have any value and was sort of a finish challenged revolver from the start (a suicide gun, my dad was a cop and knew the father of the guy). I won't elaborate too much. But in High School I took a class called Field Stream & Conservation and one of the projects we could do was make our own lures for fishing, taxidermy, blue a gun, and many others. I chose to reblue my model 15 and asked the teacher for permission. He made me get a signed permission slip from the Dean of Boys, and my parents. I carried that gun under my shirt, in my pants, unloaded of course, into my High School. Imarked straight to class and took it apart. I took the hammer and trigger home so there was no way it could be fired. I am not sure why I didn't take them out before bringing it to school but I didnt. Illegal on many levels, but I digress.
First off, I had no business trying to take on this project. It was before the Internet and before Youtube. My teacher was a moron and absolutely no help whatsoever. I managed to strip the old bluing off and tried to cold blue it but it looked like ****. So my dad took me to a local gun store and we sent it off to be reblued. It came back and although it looked better than it did, it still didn't look like my dad's model 29-2 like I hoped it would. But it was good enough for me and a heck of alot better than my attempt. For 20 years more I carried that gun in the woods and once I got my concealed carry permit it was my daily carry for a while. So it accumulated quite a bit of wear again. A buddy talked me into letting him Duracoat it and it was a total disaster. I media blasted the Duracoating off, polished out the orange peel texture, and found a gunsmith with hot bluing tanks, burners and everything. I did the prep work and he ended up letting me do the process of bluing my gun on a day he was bluing other stuff. I really enjoyed doing it this time around and got alot of satisfaction knowing I did it. Even though I completely removed the S&W logo on the sideplate, I also managed to remove the engraving left from its days in the evidence room. I am okay with it. If you take your time when prepping the steel, keep the flat spots flat and the round spots round, you're halfway there. I would suggest finding a gunsmith to let you do the prep work but have them do the hot bluing. Are you wanting a simple reblue or a polished blue? Because if you want it shiny you ll have to polish on it.
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Slow rust bluing ....It's not easy or fast , if you have the time and patience , follow the directions to the letter it can be done and look good. Look at Brownell's for the supplies , equipment and directions.

Do not accept U-tube video's at face value, a lot of the results shown are not actually as they happen....trust me on this.
Get instructions and materials from Brownell's they will give you correct information.
Gary
 
The video is showing a Nitre Bluing process. That's a heat blue. He is useing the stump killer (potassium nitrate) as the 'salt' to melt and submerge the parts in.
At the appropriate temp the metal will turn color (straw, purple, pale blue, peacock blue, dark blue).
It's an old process and was generally only used for smaller parts by the factorys as someone pointed out.

Sodium Nitrate was the prefered 'salt' to use in the process. But most any will do the trick including Ammonim Nitrate.

The old handwritten instructions and recipe from the Winchester factory for their Nitre Blue still exists. It can be found reproduced in Madis's Book of the Winchester.
They used to mix a small % of manganese dioxide (?) in with the salt to lower it's melting point. That to enable different color ranges to be reached that the plain salt would not give them.

*** Any of these melt and works in the 600F range +/.
I use them up to 800F to be a charcoal blue look. ***
They are very dangerous to use for obvious reasons and a tiny spatter will burn through leather safety wear, and then your skin in a NY moment. I have the scars to prove it. It's like working with molten lead,,the smallest amt of moisture around and you have a molten explosion of the stuff all over you. Eye safety a must.

I use the process for small parts that mostly receive the Nitre Blue as a decorative or restorative finish. It is also most useful as a heat treat to draw newly made flat and V springs to the final temper.
They come out with the noted 'spring temper blue' color for a reason.

**His 290 degree claim for blue color wouldn't melt most lead solders. It won't turn steel dark blue.
Maybe it's 290C,,thats just under 600F,,that'd almost make it but not quite,,maybe why he was stuck with reddish tones at first and had to boost the heat.

Anyway, that process is but one 'bluing' process.
It is not the Rust Blue process,,not the Hot Salt process. Both of those different from each other as well.

For DIY home bluing I'd suggest Rust bluing either slow rust or Express. The most dangerous thing you deal with is boiling water.

You can mix your own Hot Blue Salts at home and do that process DIY.
IIRC it takes 8# of salts to mix 1gal of soln. Salts are a combination of Sodium (or Pottasium) Nitrate and Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
But it's a long drawn out process, works/boils at 300F+, needs at least a couple of 'tanks' and heat source. Messy to do and clean up. The salts preciptate out of the tank with the evaporating water and then 'grow' on every surface in sight. They then attact moisture from the air and cause rust to metal and rot to any wood surfaces. The salt precipitate will destroy aluminum also.

Then what do you do with the stuff when your 1 gun blue project is over with..
 
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If you want to go the DIY route then go with slow rust bluing. Takes the least amount of equipment , fairly safe (boiling water ) and if you mess up , card off the layer of rust and do it over.
Go to Brownells and check out rust bluing. Done right it can give a beautiful blue finish to a gun. No longer done because of the hand work involved. But for a DIY project it is just the ticket!
Gary
 
gwpercle is right on the slow rust blueing method. I have used it on several handguns and long guns. It is the most wear resistant blue and produces a fine satin luster. All the old Parker and LC Smith shotgun barrels were done that way. Be sure to only use distilled water for boiling.
 
The old heat bluing methods were developed before gun steels were commonly heat treated. The old Colts had color case hardened parts for wear resistance and other parts were blued (heat and oil) for contrasting appearance.

There's some evidence noted above that once heat treating became a standard practice, the heat blue/nitre/etc method became the annealing part of the heat treat. [First you harden, then you anneal to get the exact properties you're looking for.] Not knowing the steels and the heat treat specs for the parts of your gun, I'd personally steer clear of attempting the heat blue process on a modern firearm. What might work OK for some parts, might cause you problems with others.

Besides the rust blue process, there are also steel blackening chemicals that can do a very good job of turning your firearm black/blue. I've used Brownells Dicropan on several rifle barrels and they came out very nice. This type of blue isn't as long term wear resistant as hot tank bluing. Neither is the old Colt blue. The rust blue does seem to wear well but boy, do you need patience. By the time you get a decent color you should have learned how to "card" (remove surface rust, leave the finish).
 
Your not going to effect any tempers with the sodium hydroxide type salts that melt and work at around 300f. Anything with a high hardness, sears, firing pins, bolts and the like would loose some hardness in a nitre blue in the 600f range. Barrels, cylinders and frames all have been drawn back (tempered) above that temperature. Every S&W frame I have tested with a hardness tester is in the same hardness range as mild steel, even less than a spring temper. What they are looking for when the HT barrels, cylinders and frames isn't hardness, but uniform grain size and impact toughness. One of the problems with forging is that the temps needed to properly forge steel is above the point that grain growth starts to occur. Large grain size is not as tough as small refined grain. The grain size can be reset with a normalization cycle, prior to hardening and tempering.

By the way I know of several blade smiths who harden non stainless steels using special salts. Salt is heated in a stainless tube to 1500f. It looks like clear read water at that point/ Blade is inserted in the molten salts for a couple minutes. Blade must be 100% dry as any moisture will cause a stream explosion and exploding 1500f liquid is evil stuff. Then the blade is quenched and tempered (sometimes in lower temperature salt tank). Advantage of this method is it gives extremely uniform heat to the work piece and the salt keeps any oxygen from decarbonizing the outer layer of steel while at temp. Even when removed to quench the thin layer of salt on the piece holds the O2 at bay long enough to quench. This method requires lots of attention and a very proper set up
 
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Nitre bluing is great for small parts. About the biggest things I've successfully nitre blued are a Marlin 336 lever and a steel buttplate. It can be used for bigger things, but you really need more of a heat source than a kitchen stove, and a better place than the kitchen to do it -- as noted, it can be quite risky. After all, you're dealing with molten salts.

Rust bluing requires the patience of Job, but is by far probably the best full-gun-bluing method for the kitchen-table gunsmith. Simple, safe and -- assuming you are patient and persistent -- a beautiful finish.
 
I reblued a BHP a couple of years ago that didn't turn out too bad. I used a cold bluing liquid but I put it in a stainless pot on the gas grill to warm it up to about 110 degrees. If you chose to do this make sure the solution is non flammable and dispose of the pot when finished.

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I dipped and wiped 6 times about and left in the solution about 2-3 mins each time.

I had to have the epoxy finish media blasted off. Where I started:

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I reblued a BHP a couple of years ago that didn't turn out too bad. I used a cold bluing liquid but I put it in a stainless pot on the gas grill to warm it up to about 110 degrees. If you chose to do this make sure the solution is non flammable and dispose of the pot when finished.

IMG_0196_BHP7_zpsojc5sunq.jpg


I dipped and wiped 6 times about and left in the solution about 2-3 mins each time.

I had to have the epoxy finish media blasted off. Where I started:

IMG_171_BHP_zpsfsgwqnoi.jpg
Excellent Job....that came out very nice and looks good.
Gary
 
"But it's a long drawn out process, works/boils at 300F+, needs at least a couple of 'tanks' and heat source. Messy to do and clean up. The salts preciptate out of the tank with the evaporating water and then 'grow' on every surface in sight. They then attact moisture from the air and cause rust to metal and rot to any wood surfaces. The salt precipitate will destroy aluminum also."

Temperature control for hot dip oxide bluing is fairly critical. The bluing salts solution must actually boil, and the boiling temperature is controlled by adding water if it boils too hot, or adding more salts if the boiling temperature is too low. It's very expensive for materials and equipment unless you are doing a lot of hot bluing. By far the simplest way to prep the metal for bluing is by bead blasting using a very fine blasting media. That will give a satin finish. Hand polishing to a highly reflective finish without messing things up beyond repair is very difficult and time consuming to do unless you have lots of experience and good equipment. And finally the metal surfaces must be very clean and free of all oil or grease before it goes into the tank. I have found that the easiest and best way to clean the metal is to wipe everything down very thoroughly with paper towels and MEK. Much, much better than any other cleaning method, believe me on that. I never used boiling in silicated cleaner solution again after I discovered that.

For most amateurs, rust bluing is generally better and cheaper, assuming you have the patience to stick with it to the end.
 
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I have the AGI video on slow rust and nitre bluing. Haven't watched it yet thought. Got quite a few of those AGI videos. Albeit slightly outdated, for the guy who likes "classic", they are wonderful. Especially some of their actual gunsmithing ones. The one S&W video with Bob Dunlap is really good classroom quality material.

The only thing I like better are the Kuhnhausen manuals. I wish more of the trade secrets were preserved.
 
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