Rebound Slide Installation Trick

gunboat57

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While fitting a new hammer to my Model 17-3 I discovered an easy way to compress the rebound slide spring when installing the rebound slide. I had a Philips head screw driver, whatever size will just barely fit into the hole where the rebound spring goes. Compress the spring with the screw driver while keeping one of the flutes in the screw driver head aligned with the pin in the frame. The flute allows the pin to capture the spring, barely. Keep pressing down on the rebound slide as you carefully withdraw the screw driver. The slide will sink down over the pin and the spring will be fully captured.

After I did it a couple times it was surprisingly easy. Didn't lose the spring even once.
 
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That is great, after you do it a few times and you will start doing it with the screwdriver that you take the side plate screws out with.
 
When I use that screw driver, so far I'm only good enough to ram it under my thumbnail.:eek: Guess I need more practice.
 
After YEARS of using all sorts of screwdrivers (and searching for the springs that went flying) I broke down and bought the specific tool from Brownell's. It is very inexpensive and works quite well. No more searching the shop floor for missing rebound springs!!! If you will be working on Smiths, break down and buy the tool form Brownell's or Midway - you won't regret it.

BROWNELLS : S&W REBOUND SLIDE SPRING TOOL - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

Chief38
 
I don't know about this special tool stuff...if I'm not careful, pretty soon I'll be using a plastic mallet to rap the side plate loose instead of a screw driver handle.:D
 
I bought the tool from Brownell's, if you remove more than 1 rebound slide, ever, it's worth the $5 investment:)

When I first started collecting S&W's, opening the sideplate of a S&W was like looking inside a Swiss watch.......now I have broken down a Smith completely after getting a used one, cleaned and oiled it and had it together again within 20 minutes.

Next on my list is the special screwdriver bits for the S&W's, I have some that are the same size but the blades are getting bent.
 
Is there a video somewhere thats shows how to take apart and reassemble S-W revolvers? Thanks
 
While fitting a new hammer to my Model 17-3 I discovered an easy way to compress the rebound slide spring when installing the rebound slide. I had a Philips head screw driver, whatever size will just barely fit into the hole where the rebound spring goes. Compress the spring with the screw driver while keeping one of the flutes in the screw driver head aligned with the pin in the frame. The flute allows the pin to capture the spring, barely. Keep pressing down on the rebound slide as you carefully withdraw the screw driver. The slide will sink down over the pin and the spring will be fully captured.

After I did it a couple times it was surprisingly easy. Didn't lose the spring even once.

Outstanding idea. The point of the philips head keeps the spring centered and captured. Much better than using a flat blade screwdriver in a pinch. Less chance of losing an eye.
 
This is a "Smithmaster" tool. Available at Midway and Brownells. it is very handy for this purpose.
IMG_1795.jpg

Has the fork on one end for removal, and the grove on a round point just the right size on the other end for re-insertion.
 
There is a tool for most every job, if not make one. There is one for this application so i bought it.
 
"Has the fork on one end for removal..."

You mean you don't have to try to catch the spring in an oven mitt?

If I end up doing more Smith "smithing" I'm gonna invest in one of those tools.

I should probably get a good set of the right sized punches too. Nails and brads bend too much.
 
I take the rebound slide out by gently prying it up with a sharpened screw driver and catch the spring in my hand. I reinstall it with a phillips screwdriver.
 
I don't know about this special tool stuff...if I'm not careful, pretty soon I'll be using a plastic mallet to rap the side plate loose instead of a screw driver handle.:D

BE CAREFUL!!!! Not just any plastic mallet should be used to remove the sideplate. Not known to most home gunsmiths but the removal of the side plate requires an S&W branded, 222.113 hardness, yellow plastic mallet with a heart grained, oak handle. Hold the gun upside down over a soft flannel cloth (properly hemmed along ALL 4 edges) and then, and only then smartly rap the backstrap with the handle of the S&W mallet.
 
It's pretty easy to make the tool from an old screwdriver. All it takes is a propane torch to put the bends in it, a dremel to cut the slot and a file to smooth it all out.

reboundtool.jpg
 
If thirty plus years of wrenching for a living has taught me anything, it would be "use the right tool for the job". For that reason I also use a deadblow hammer handle for removing side plate.

Screwdrivers are for screws, hammers are for hitting...

FWIW the the slot in my Brownells tool didn't fit very well over the frame stud on S&W Airweights but it fits steel and stainless steel framed models.
 
Dang gone 357, is that thing long enought :D , you can have someone hold the gun and remove from the other side of the table :D . Just kidding, I'm inpressed with it. There is no reason anyone can't have one with a Stanley .99 cent screw driver.
 
Rebound spring tool

I have owned and used one for over 25 years.

When my (then) department sent me to the S&W Police Armorer's School, one of the instructors noticed several of us with the tool. He asked if we still had the waxed paper that came with it, to prevent our candy asses from sticking to the seats !
 
Thanks for the tip! I used it for the first time recently to put in new rebound slide springs on two revolvers. Worked perfectly!
 
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