dixiedawg119
Member
What weight rebound spring are you using in your carry j-frame?
Rebound Springs in a J-Frame
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USAF385
US Veteran
I've thought about switching mine out, but have never gotten around to it. I vote for Factory.
Hoptob
Member
In J frames I use 14# rebound and factory mainspring. I always do trigger jobs on my J frames - check, adjust, debur and polish everything that needs it. After trigger job is done, 10# spring will reliably reset trigger every time. I still like 14# to have it "feel" like a combat rather than match trigger. Going higher affects my speed and aim.
Mike
Mike
Beachcomber
Member
Factory!... Why take any chances with a revolver that you depend on for self defense?
If you want a better (smoother) trigger pull get some snap caps and dry fire the h*ll out of your j-frame or send it out to have the action smoothed by a trained gunsmith.
If you want a better (smoother) trigger pull get some snap caps and dry fire the h*ll out of your j-frame or send it out to have the action smoothed by a trained gunsmith.
pinkymingeo
Member
What chance are you taking? All of my revolvers, including J-frames, have light springs and are 100% reliable.
Fastbolt
Member
When I first started experimenting with a 642 (trying to improve the gun more quickly than the user 
) I tried the standard kit of reduced power rebound slide springs. Even with a 'deburred' rebound slide the 12 lb spring wouldn't consistently allow trigger recovery in my 642. The next higher rated springs did to varying degree, and I finally settled on the heaviest of them for good trigger recovery in my 642, which was an off-duty weapon. (This modification was done and approved by the head armorer of my agency at the time, FWIW, so it wasn't something I just decided to do on my own.)
It wasn't that many months later while training that I noticed my trigger finger was now commonly out-running the trigger recovery during various drills and qualification courses-of-fire. I replaced the lighter rebound slide spring with the factory one and got rid of the lighter springs. I noticed an immediate improvement in my trigger recovery ... and kicked myself silently for not having focused on improving me right away instead of just looking for an easy improvement to the weapon.
Even "if everything inside is polished and lubed" you can't always predict when the circumstances in which the gun may be used for defensive purpose may result in the introduction of dirt, grit, moisture, oxidation or even the accumulation of excessive fouling into the gun. A lighter rebound slide spring may not have the strength to function the trigger (recovery) normally as intended under unexpected adverse conditions and circumstances, or even normal conditions at some point.
Now, if it's just a dedicated range enjoyment, sporting, competition and target revolver then there may be different considerations for someone. Gunsmiths make a living doing such things for such folks, you know.
Here's something else to consider, though.
In a S&W revolver armorer class the instructor emphasized that the primary safety of the 3 'safeties' of a S&W revolver is the rebound slide.
For example, if a revolver cocked in single action is dropped and the hammer falls, the rebound slide must 'beat the hammer home' so the raised opposing surfaces of the rebound slide and hammer ... (the rebound seat on the bottom of the hammer and the hammer seat on the top of the rebound slide) ... are in the proper position relative to each other to prevent the firing pin from hitting the primer and the gun discharging. The hammer blocks in revolvers with 'external hammers' index off the rebound slide, too.
A lightened rebound slide spring impedes the speed of the rebound slide returning to its intended forward position where it can act as the primary safety.
Then there's the consideration that some of the fastest revolver shooters throughout the years also preferred the fastest trigger recovery they could obtain ... meaning a strong rebound spring ... (without having a 'monster' rebound slide spring bend or break the frame stud holding the spring in place, of course).
Just my thoughts.
) I tried the standard kit of reduced power rebound slide springs. Even with a 'deburred' rebound slide the 12 lb spring wouldn't consistently allow trigger recovery in my 642. The next higher rated springs did to varying degree, and I finally settled on the heaviest of them for good trigger recovery in my 642, which was an off-duty weapon. (This modification was done and approved by the head armorer of my agency at the time, FWIW, so it wasn't something I just decided to do on my own.)It wasn't that many months later while training that I noticed my trigger finger was now commonly out-running the trigger recovery during various drills and qualification courses-of-fire. I replaced the lighter rebound slide spring with the factory one and got rid of the lighter springs. I noticed an immediate improvement in my trigger recovery ... and kicked myself silently for not having focused on improving me right away instead of just looking for an easy improvement to the weapon.
Even "if everything inside is polished and lubed" you can't always predict when the circumstances in which the gun may be used for defensive purpose may result in the introduction of dirt, grit, moisture, oxidation or even the accumulation of excessive fouling into the gun. A lighter rebound slide spring may not have the strength to function the trigger (recovery) normally as intended under unexpected adverse conditions and circumstances, or even normal conditions at some point.
Now, if it's just a dedicated range enjoyment, sporting, competition and target revolver then there may be different considerations for someone. Gunsmiths make a living doing such things for such folks, you know.
Here's something else to consider, though.
In a S&W revolver armorer class the instructor emphasized that the primary safety of the 3 'safeties' of a S&W revolver is the rebound slide.
For example, if a revolver cocked in single action is dropped and the hammer falls, the rebound slide must 'beat the hammer home' so the raised opposing surfaces of the rebound slide and hammer ... (the rebound seat on the bottom of the hammer and the hammer seat on the top of the rebound slide) ... are in the proper position relative to each other to prevent the firing pin from hitting the primer and the gun discharging. The hammer blocks in revolvers with 'external hammers' index off the rebound slide, too.
A lightened rebound slide spring impedes the speed of the rebound slide returning to its intended forward position where it can act as the primary safety.
Then there's the consideration that some of the fastest revolver shooters throughout the years also preferred the fastest trigger recovery they could obtain ... meaning a strong rebound spring ... (without having a 'monster' rebound slide spring bend or break the frame stud holding the spring in place, of course).
Just my thoughts.
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OP
dixiedawg119
Member
Well, I was hoping to maybe smooth out the pull on my 340 a little more, and lighten it just a tad. Right now, the pull is long, relatively smooth, and heavy. It's not that it has a bad trigger, I just feel that it could be better.
I knew alot of people stuck with factory, and I feel like the second most common I'd heard was 13#. That's why I did the poll. I was thinkin' about running a 15#, which is what I run in my 686.
Fastbolt, I'm guessing that's what you had in yours for a time? I felt like that would keep me reliable and aid my shooting a little too. I don't plan on speed shooting with it. If anything slows my follow up shot, it won't be the trigger - it'll be the recoil. I don't want anything crazy light, and I want it to function properly. I'm not trying to get greedy with it. I was just hoping to make it a little more shooter friendly.
I knew alot of people stuck with factory, and I feel like the second most common I'd heard was 13#. That's why I did the poll. I was thinkin' about running a 15#, which is what I run in my 686.
Fastbolt, I'm guessing that's what you had in yours for a time? I felt like that would keep me reliable and aid my shooting a little too. I don't plan on speed shooting with it. If anything slows my follow up shot, it won't be the trigger - it'll be the recoil. I don't want anything crazy light, and I want it to function properly. I'm not trying to get greedy with it. I was just hoping to make it a little more shooter friendly.
Hoptob
Member
Nice post, Fastbolt. Thanks!
Mike
Mike
Fastbolt
Member
I didn't buy a standard pack of springs when I ordered, but picked 3 springs after talking over my needs with our armorer at the time and the spring company. As I recall the fellow from the company stressed their lighter strength rebound slide springs were only intended for target/competitive revolver application. Sorry, but I'm not sure I could accurately remember the exact weights I picked at that time. I seem to recall the armorer recommended starting with the lightest, though.
Sort of an interesting followup to my experience is that even though the 2 lighter springs we tried which didn't give me good trigger recovery in my J-frame, even after the attention of the armorer to the action, the armorer tried them in his Airlite .38 and found that 1 of them worked to his satisfaction in his J-frame. Last I knew (he's retired) he still had it in his gun. His gun, his choice. He's certainly got more bench time and experience than I do.
Not being interested in target/competitive revolver shooting myself, I've simply decided to err on the side of conservative safety when it comes to my personally-owned J-frames.
Granted, the factory springs have what some folks might consider to be an extra margin of strength built into them.
Replacing rebound slide springs requires some attention and caution when it comes to the potential for damage to the gun, though. It's not a good thing to bend, or break, the frame stud that holds the spring. It's expensive to replace, last I heard. I think the instructor in my revolver armorer class mentioned it could cost upwards of $125 for the factory to replace the rebound slide frame stud nowadays (presuming it wouldn't be covered by warranty if it was thought that the owner's - or armorer's - actions voided the conditions of the warranty).
Sort of an interesting followup to my experience is that even though the 2 lighter springs we tried which didn't give me good trigger recovery in my J-frame, even after the attention of the armorer to the action, the armorer tried them in his Airlite .38 and found that 1 of them worked to his satisfaction in his J-frame. Last I knew (he's retired) he still had it in his gun. His gun, his choice. He's certainly got more bench time and experience than I do.
Not being interested in target/competitive revolver shooting myself, I've simply decided to err on the side of conservative safety when it comes to my personally-owned J-frames.
Granted, the factory springs have what some folks might consider to be an extra margin of strength built into them.
Replacing rebound slide springs requires some attention and caution when it comes to the potential for damage to the gun, though. It's not a good thing to bend, or break, the frame stud that holds the spring. It's expensive to replace, last I heard. I think the instructor in my revolver armorer class mentioned it could cost upwards of $125 for the factory to replace the rebound slide frame stud nowadays (presuming it wouldn't be covered by warranty if it was thought that the owner's - or armorer's - actions voided the conditions of the warranty).
Hoptob
Member
S&W recently came up with a limited run of factory tuned 642; a number of these guns are available on gunbroker now. They are said to have hand stoned hammer, trigger and rebound slide and reduced rebound spring. I had an opportunity to handle two of these guns in the local stores. Trigger is very smooth, it doesn't stack and it is lighter than on a normal production 642. I don't know what exact springs S&W uses, but trigger feels just a bit lighter than factory mainspring and 14# rebound spring in my 442.
I agree with Fastbolt that best trigger is individual to the shooter. Depends on his level of training but also individual shooting style, strength, hold and size of the hand. Jerry Mikulec uses reduced mainspring and extra strength rebound slide spring in his target revolvers. He can squeeze 6 shots in under 1 sec and still hit the target with each shot. To be fair it's a large target at about 15-20'. I am no Jerry and it takes me twice as long to do same. But I know that I am faster with a bit lighter than factory trigger. For me the time saved on faster trigger return is offset by slower pull against heavier spring. That's why I settled on 14# spring in J frames and 15# in L frames. As time goes on I may bring them up a notch but not yet.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Mike
I agree with Fastbolt that best trigger is individual to the shooter. Depends on his level of training but also individual shooting style, strength, hold and size of the hand. Jerry Mikulec uses reduced mainspring and extra strength rebound slide spring in his target revolvers. He can squeeze 6 shots in under 1 sec and still hit the target with each shot. To be fair it's a large target at about 15-20'. I am no Jerry and it takes me twice as long to do same. But I know that I am faster with a bit lighter than factory trigger. For me the time saved on faster trigger return is offset by slower pull against heavier spring. That's why I settled on 14# spring in J frames and 15# in L frames. As time goes on I may bring them up a notch but not yet.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Mike
pinkymingeo
Member
The rebound spring should be balanced with the main spring. If you want a very light rebound spring, 11-12lb, go with a reduced power main. You then add an Apex firing pin for reliability in the newer FMP guns.
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500 Magnum Nut
Member
Factory rebound is 18 LBS
When I do them in a J, the trigger reset is very important (trigger reset is critical in all revolvers).
I use factory main springs and 14 LB rebound springs. This is a compromise that works for me.
Jerry Miculek, the worlds fastest revolver shooter, also is a S&W smith. He runs his own springs which are weaker than factory in both the main and rebound. He wants speed and smooth with positive trigger reset.
I want 100% defensive reliable with positive trigger reset. Your results may vary.
When I do them in a J, the trigger reset is very important (trigger reset is critical in all revolvers).
I use factory main springs and 14 LB rebound springs. This is a compromise that works for me.
Jerry Miculek, the worlds fastest revolver shooter, also is a S&W smith. He runs his own springs which are weaker than factory in both the main and rebound. He wants speed and smooth with positive trigger reset.
I want 100% defensive reliable with positive trigger reset. Your results may vary.
Fastbolt
Member
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