rechambering a .32 long to H&R mag

arch stanton

Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2010
Messages
142
Reaction score
65
Location
Western Oklahoma
I bought a 30-1 last weekend at Tulsa. Its just a shooter with not much bluing left. According to my SCSW it was probably made in 1971 or 1972.

The cylinder is long enough to handle the longer cartridge but I didn't know if it could handle the extra pressure. It wouldn't be shot with the magnums mostly but it would be nice to have the capability.

What say you experts?
 
Register to hide this ad
Have at it. Factory loaded .32 H&R Mags are not a true magnum cartridge. Pressure is only slightly higher than a .32 S&W Long. You can shoot them forever in that gun and never notice any extra wear.
 
Looking at some specs for each not long ago,,I'd leave a J frame 32 alone.

The 32Long max service pressure is something like 15,500psi.
32Mag is only listed in CUP (copper crusher units) at 21,500cup.
There's no formula to convert CUP to PSI.

Some readings in CUP are very close to their PSI reading. Many are not.
The CUP number may be as much as 20% less than it's equivelent PSI.

Proof rounds are 30 to 40% greater than the max service pressure.

Even if the 32Mag CUP is equivelent to PSI (21,500),,the 32Mag would be entering or inside Proof Load pressures for the 32Long original chambering.
Real numbers of what the PSI rating is for the 32Mag could place it higher than the 32Long proof round.

Yes it's probably been done,,lots of things can be done and will function,
But without knowing some hard numbers,,and using a small diameter J frame cylinder of a 30-1,,I'd not do the conversion.

It appears to push the limits IMHO.
 
Why not just load the .32 S&W Long up to it's solid-frame potential? I'm throwing 100-grain RNFPs at over 1k fps from my 2.5" H&R 732, and I'm not at the formerly published max for that particular powder yet. And I find a 900 fps load to be very accurate.


photobucket-8888-1332620598092.jpg
 
While 2152hq's advice is in generally valid, it is, in this case, overly cautious.

Based strictly on cylinder dimensions the J-Frame .32 cylinder has a wall thickness identical to the that of the K-frame .38 cylinder. The cylinders have been heat-treated for many years.

I have been shooting a 1967 or 1968 Model 30-1 since it was purchased in 1968. Hundreds of rounds have been fired through with loads which probably approach 25,000+ PSI, possibly higher. A very slightly higher load with the same bullet will flatten the primers so they resemble full-pressure .357 Magnum fired primers. All this with not the slightest sign of damage to the revolver!

The .32 H&R Magnum Maximum Average Pressure specified by SAAMI is only slightly higher that .38 Special +P loads that can be fired in the .38 caliber J-Frame revolver with a cylinder wall that is nearly 30% thinner!

S&W has chambered the .32 H&R Magnum in this very gun, the Model 631, which was made before the frame strengthening done to allow the J-frame to be chambered for .357 Magnum. The strength issue concerning chambering the J-Frame to .357 Magnum was with the frame, not the cylinder! While I would be somewhat hesitant to suggest chambering a Model 30 made much before 1968, and certainly never an I or Improved I Frame, There is no reason to be concerned with doing this to a J-frame gun.

There have been hundreds, if not thousands of Model 30s re-chambered to .32 H&R with no problem I have ever heard of.

Arch,

I am not recommending that you make this change, just that there will be no harm in doing so as long as you don't get ridiculously silly with your loading. If you stick to published data everything will be fine, and you will even be able to somewhat improve on Federal factory ammunition performance. The cartridge does very well with cast bullets in the 100-115 gr. range.
 
Exactly.

If you think you have a gun that can hold the pressure, there is plenty of room in the case for powder.

The idea of making the "magnum" cases longer was to prevent the hot new kid on the block from fitting in the older guns. It wasn't because there was need for more room to fit smokeless powder.

I would imagine a case half-full of a fast smokeless powder would produce astronomical velocities.

Once.

In the meantime, Ruger will sell you a gun designed for really hot loads for less money than your deductible and co-pay for the surgical ophthalmologist.
 
Thanks for all the input fellas.

I'll probably give it a try if I ever run across a reamer for a good price. The main reason I want to try it is for a few more options with factory ammo. I'm thinkin for now I'll just order a set of dies and some components.
 
Option

Thanks for all the input fellas.

I'll probably give it a try if I ever run across a reamer for a good price. The main reason I want to try it is for a few more options with factory ammo. I'm thinkin for now I'll just order a set of dies and some components.

I have a brother who rebuilds all kinds of mechanical devices, including mostly automobile engines and porting cylinder heads. He reamed my 30-1 cylinder with a drill press and a hone. Any good machinist should be able to handle this not just a gunsmith.
 
Hey Erich,

I think I have a very similar sixgun, a NEF 73. Mine is however chambered in 32 H&Rmag and has a 6 1/2" barrel. The accuracy is shocking, under an inch groups at 25 yards. I tend to baby it because it just doesn't look like it is made to shoot hot loads; and anything this accurate, I'm going to keep.

I really liked your idea of just uploading a 32 long without reaming to H&Rmag. I think this is the solution for the OP. Slinging a 115gr bullet at 1000fps is more than sufficient for most uses.

It's hard to keep imagining the variety that the .32's now hold. I've started to color code my powder coating to keep the mouse fart loads separate from the fire-breathing dragon rounds.


Prescut
 
Bowen Arms did my 31-1 They wont do any earlier make . Mahovsky Chrome plated it. Shoots and looks great. If you look in my posts I have some pictures. I dont push it to hard. Definitely check out Mahovsky Plating, they do great work and WAY cheaper than re-bluing.
 
Last edited:
Trying to I’d smith Wesson 44spl

The pistol is marked s&w 44 soon the on barrel I cannot make out the whole serial number but the first the are 562 I will try and send pics all help appreciated. It used to belong and was carried by a Deputy in our County
 
The pistol is marked s&w 44 soon the on barrel I cannot make out the whole serial number but the first the are 562 I will try and send pics all help appreciated. It used to belong and was carried by a Deputy in our County

Welcome to the forum.

FYI: Your subject is not related to this thread. Therefore you need to start a new thread. Click on the orange box that reads NEW THREAD at the top left of the index page: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/

Also statements like this: "barrel is marked s&w 44 soon the on barrel" and "I cannot make out the whole serial number but the first the are 562" are not helpful for us to help you. Please confirm what the markings are with a magnifying glass before posting them and proof read what you wrote before posting it.

Thank you,
 
Back
Top