Recoil spring life?

AGoyette

Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2013
Messages
970
Reaction score
368
Location
Missouri
So quick question.. I use my 15-22 in Steel Challenge competitions. I almost exclusively use Federal Game Shok ammo as my rifle loves it, she shoots cleanly and I get good groupings from it. Out of 2K rounds I have only had one jam from it. Before my last match I cleaned the rifle. I used an oil I normally do not use, Lucas Oil. I normally do not use this oil as I find it sticky. Well I shot the match and it was COLD that day. About half way through the match I started to have jam after jam. I ran a bore snake through the gun, though I did not think that that was it. I helped for a mag or two, then it was back to jamomatic. Lots of FTE or stovepipes. So I figure that it was either the oil attracting gunk to the rails and thickening up because it was cold or the recoil spring is nearing the end of its life. I have put 2-3K round through the gun and I bought it used (I don't think the previous owner shot it a lot). I just got done cleaning it again to remove any of the Lucas Oil and I put the oil on it that I usually do. So hopefully that will fix it. But I was wondering what the life expediency was on the recoil spring. Bare in mind, the rifle has earned the nick name, Ole Reliable on the local Steel Challenge circuit because I never have issues with it.
 
Register to hide this ad
I think it is most likely that it was the cold combined with th lube. You need to find a lube that is rated for freezing and below. I use Remington Drilube in the winter on th postol's rails. It makes light Teflon coating and never thickens and does not dry out. It does have to be reapplied after cleaning.
 
So I figure that it was either the oil attracting gunk to the rails and thickening up because it was cold or the recoil spring is nearing the end of its life.

I doubt it's the recoil spring. I've asked about recoil springs when I've been getting replacement firing pins and the response has been they last almost forever. The main (hammer spring) has as much effect on how the bolt cycles and should be replaced every 10,000 rds or so. When they get weak you'll get misfires or the spring can break. The mil spec for hammer spring replacement in an M-16 is 10,000 rds. Our 15-22s use a std AR-15 / M-16 hammer spring. I run Geissele trigger groups with their extra power hammer springs.

As to oiling the bolt, I say don't. The bolt only rides on the rail and doesn't contact the upper. If you feel you must oil the rails use something very light like Rem Oil and use it VERY sparingly. I shoot Rimfire Challenge with my 15-22 and they're just fine 5 yrs later with rails that have bee run dry. The only failures I've had have been broken firing pins which i why I have a second 15-22 as a backup. I have VQ extractors as spares but the originals are still in my 15-22s. Two pistols also with one as a backup.

Like you've found the 15-22s are very reliable.
 
There are a number of people who have run across function issues due to the lubes they chose to use. Some thicken up significantly, others barely at all. For cold weather, I would run with a thin oil or a dry lube. Synthetics tend to hold up better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
There are a number of people who have run across function issues due to the lubes they chose to use. Some thicken up significantly, others barely at all.
Long time ago I put small amounts of the lubes I had in small individual cups, marked them so I knew what was what, and put them in the freezer overnight. It was interesting how many turned to jello when cold. If you're shooting in the cold it might be worth trying this with your favorite lube.
 
Shot a Steel Challenge match today. I still had issues with it. All my mags are new, but I am going to mark them and make sure it is not a mag issue. It is frustrating to me since it has been running without any issues for about 3 years now. BTW, I use oil sparingly in the gun, mostly a light coating on the BCG rails, which I then spread with my fingers.
 
I have 20k+ rounds through mine with the same recoil spring. That said, most functioning problems can be traced to improper lube, ie too much lube! If you can actually see lube on parts, you've used too much.
 
Tomcatt51 does make a good point about rifle cleaning. As much fun as .22LR is to shoot, it is a filthy burning round.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Has to be the oil that got thick in the cold. About30 years ago at our local club a few people heard about "STP", so slick you couldn't hold onto anything with it on it. It was touted as a great sear lube, but quite a few also tried it as a slide lube and it worked well, UNTIL the temperature dropped that fall, and several people couldn't even rack the slides on their 1911's. Don't hear much about STP any longer.
 
It's not the recoil spring.

I sent my 15-22 to S&W for a 105k overhaul, (had some issues :D ) and when I got it back, the original recoil spring was still in there. They did replace the hammer spring which was not broken.

Only time my 15-22 turned into a "jam-o-matic" was when the feed lips on the mags were worn out or I had a broken firing pin.

For lube I use 3 drops of Slip2000; 1 on recoil spring guide and 1 on each bolt rail.

disclaimer: I live in west central FL and my definition of cold is vastly different than yours, below 40 and people freak out down here. ;)
 
Plus one on Slip 2000 EWL. I use it it on ALL my weapons. I do use it sparingly on my M&P .22 LR Compact pistol and my M&P 22 rifle. A little goes a long way.
 
Back
Top