time2swing
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I have a 1966 "No Dash" model 36 and I'd like to install a spring kit. What companies do you recommend? Any considerations for this model?
Thx
Thx
Recommended Spring Kits for Model 36?
- Thread starter time2swing
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If this is to be a carry gun I'd not do much to this gun other than MAYBE change the Rebound Spring with a Wolff brand and make sure there are no restrictive burrs on the action. That alone will make the gun somewhat smoother without doing much else. I'd also NOT go below 13 pounds for reliability and adequate trigger return action and speed. You do NOT want a slow trigger return on a carry gun! The M36's (especially the old ones like yours) should be fairly smooth although a slight bit heavier than you desire but IMHO the original Mainspring should NOT be changed or cut on a EDC gun.
IF this is just a Range ONLY Gun (which I doubt since most M36's are EDC's) then instead of cutting anything replace your springs (Wolff) but KEEP the originals so they can be replaced at any time. Personally I'd NOT use a very light Chief's Special for SD or HD for fear of a FTF - even though many people do.
The MOST IMPORTANT way to get comfortable, accurate and confident with any EDC is simply to shoot it. Not only will this help you shoot the gun well but it will be a great "action job" after parts wear in and smooth out if the gun has to this point not been shot much.
IF this is just a Range ONLY Gun (which I doubt since most M36's are EDC's) then instead of cutting anything replace your springs (Wolff) but KEEP the originals so they can be replaced at any time. Personally I'd NOT use a very light Chief's Special for SD or HD for fear of a FTF - even though many people do.
The MOST IMPORTANT way to get comfortable, accurate and confident with any EDC is simply to shoot it. Not only will this help you shoot the gun well but it will be a great "action job" after parts wear in and smooth out if the gun has to this point not been shot much.
Excellent advice. Especially on the mainspring. So many people want to replace and/or modify it for a "cool" hair trigger, just to end up with too light strikes.
I would add though that, sometimes the burrs are not easy to find. The ones that mark the frame/faceplate are easy enough. I got a 1500 grit stone, that I broke the end of to get some smaller pieces.
Then I took it to basically all the inner contact points. My old 27-2 went from 4 pound single action and 8 pound double to 2 and 5 just with polishing and getting a 13pound Wolffs rebound spring. Did not touch the mainspring or the single action hammer sear.
Doc
I would add though that, sometimes the burrs are not easy to find. The ones that mark the frame/faceplate are easy enough. I got a 1500 grit stone, that I broke the end of to get some smaller pieces.
Then I took it to basically all the inner contact points. My old 27-2 went from 4 pound single action and 8 pound double to 2 and 5 just with polishing and getting a 13pound Wolffs rebound spring. Did not touch the mainspring or the single action hammer sear.
Doc
Grayfox
US Veteran
I agree to not mess with the mainspring. Wolff sells a kit with 5 different rebound springs in it. Try different ones until you have a lighter trigger pull AND positive trigger reset.
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I've used several Apex kits for J frames with excellent results and 100% reliability. The Apex kits are made for carry guns; they will not result in a "hair trigger".
Do not mess with the main spring you will get light strikes, You can change the rebound spring which will lighten up the pull a little. Most all springs regardless of name are made by Wolff even the SW factory ones.
