Quick question. When mounting a red dot at a 45 degree angle along with a scope does the retical get smaller when mounted farther from the eye and make it easier to put on targets? I see lots of setups some mounted close before scope, some mounted beside scope, and some down at the handguard. Whats difference?
Red Dot Scope Recommendation
- Thread starter bvdavidson63
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rraisley
Member
No, the appearance of red dot reticule size stays the same, regardless of distance away that the scope is mounted (at least on my Primary Arms M3 that's the case). That is, the MOA stays the same, meaning it's apparent size in relation to the target stays the same. I think distance to the scope is pretty much a user preference thing. Closer gives a larger field around the target, so to me makes targets easier to acquire.
scottd1975
Member
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hkyplr
Member
I have another question. I have a red dot and a scope, I would like to have them both mounted at the same time which would require a 45deg mount. When making adjustments to sight in, I would need to use windage And elevation adjustments if it was shooting low for instance.
rraisley
Member
Yes and no. Just because the scope is mounted on a 45 degree mount, doesn't mean that the scope itself is at 45 degrees. In fact, I would still keep its axes horizontal and vertical, so horizontal and vertical adjustments are correct.
HOWEVER - being mounted off to the side, realize that when you change distance, you will absolutely have to come up with new zeros for each distance. Even if vertical zeros are close (like most guns sighted in at 25 yards will be very close, vertically, at 75-80 yards. But your horizontal zero will definitely change. A sight offset to the left and sighted in at 25 yards will shoot to the right at longer distance, and the difference can be substantial.
Aceman58
Member
Red Dot, I got three that I use and love for CQB type shooting & Training. Depending on your budget, Aimpoint is the best but understanding I put this on my full size. The Vortex and Sightmark are very well made Red Dots that will handle the recoil of the 22LR and even full loads of the 5.56. (I find it hard to put a Red Dot that cost more than the rifle on top of it, but that's just me). :
1. Aimpoint ML3....................approx. $550 to $650
2. Vortex Strikefire................. " " $149
3. Primary Arm SM13041......... " " $ 79
Again, I've used all three on all different weapons, 5.56 to 22LR and they hold Zero and recoil... You may find the very in expensive Red Dot not able to handle the recoil of the 5.56 but will work on the 22LR. Good luck on you decisions... See photo below:
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1. Aimpoint ML3....................approx. $550 to $650
2. Vortex Strikefire................. " " $149
3. Primary Arm SM13041......... " " $ 79
Again, I've used all three on all different weapons, 5.56 to 22LR and they hold Zero and recoil... You may find the very in expensive Red Dot not able to handle the recoil of the 5.56 but will work on the 22LR. Good luck on you decisions... See photo below:
Boxerglocker
Member
Thanks, I wanted to see how big it was compared to the 15-22 frame. I'll be ordering one for mine.
I PMed that to you first, then posted here in the thread... Love the setup.
Currently wearing a PA RD with ADM mount but that will be going on my AKM for now.
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I've been using a Primary Arms MicroDot sight for a couple years on my 15-22 and about a year on my Ruger. Great dimestore optics, and the guys at Primary Arms are a pleasure to do business with. They also sell the Bushnell TRS-25 which is very similar, though I prefer the Primary Arms with removable base.
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I love my TRS25 Bushnell... works really well, easy to adjust, quick acquisition
hkyplr
Member
Okay, that makes sense. I was thinking about the red dot on the 45 deg mount, but you would still have the same problem with different distances and the inability to spin the sight to align the axis.
photoracer
Member
If you have a red dot mounted on a 45 degree mount you have to realize that to use it you tilt the rifle at 45 dgrees to make the sight level. If the sight is level and over the bore axis you can treat it just as if it is mounted on the rail for sight in purposes. However there are many "interpretations" of what constitutes 45 degrees. Most of those offset rails are not low enough to actually put the sight right above the barrel when you tilt the gun . In that case you will have some L/R misalignment, so that you will only get one true distance sighted in. One way to counteract this is to tilt the gun only enough to put the dot over the barrel regardless of the sight orientation. If you do this then sighting it in gets more difficult as the adjustments will be at some angle instead of true U/D and L/R so you will have to adjust both for each change in aim. I have done it both ways. My 3-gun AR has a set of Dueck offset iron sights and they are the only ones that are actually mounted at a true 45 degrees right over the barrel. The closest I have gotten with an offset rail is the Daniel Defense 1 O'clock which is not perfect but can be made to work.
On the question of how far forward or back to mount it relative to your eye, it depends on how you shoot. If you shoot primarily one-eyed like a scope then mount it as far to the rear as possible. You will see more real estate through the dot window. If you are primarily used to being a both eyes open action shooter than mount it farther down the top rail. The dot will look the same size but the window will be smaller. As a result you can easily see other targets outside the window, same as if you happen to shoot an open class pistol with a C-More. I tried this out and can shoot either way. But since I elected to shoot in Tac Optics division I could not use a red dot in addition to my 1-6x scope. Plus I found I could shoot both eyes open with the scope set at 1x. The advantage of the offset iron sights is the fact I have them zeroed at around 35 yards and I know how to keep the front post low to hit consistantly at 50 yards on paper. That way the scope can be set to hit at 100 yards high so I can nail anything I need at 200.
Also if I was using a tube type red dot at 45 degrees I would adjust the orientation so that at my prefered angle of engagement the sight was correct L/R and U/D. Then sighting it in becomes much easier. But for reflex sights you can't do that. I tend to prefer mini reflex sights as offset red dots, like the Burris FastFire, SightMark mini, C-More STS, P-F Spec Ops, or Doctor. I would lump the Aimpoint micro in with the Vortex SPARC as sights that would work there also.
On the question of how far forward or back to mount it relative to your eye, it depends on how you shoot. If you shoot primarily one-eyed like a scope then mount it as far to the rear as possible. You will see more real estate through the dot window. If you are primarily used to being a both eyes open action shooter than mount it farther down the top rail. The dot will look the same size but the window will be smaller. As a result you can easily see other targets outside the window, same as if you happen to shoot an open class pistol with a C-More. I tried this out and can shoot either way. But since I elected to shoot in Tac Optics division I could not use a red dot in addition to my 1-6x scope. Plus I found I could shoot both eyes open with the scope set at 1x. The advantage of the offset iron sights is the fact I have them zeroed at around 35 yards and I know how to keep the front post low to hit consistantly at 50 yards on paper. That way the scope can be set to hit at 100 yards high so I can nail anything I need at 200.
Also if I was using a tube type red dot at 45 degrees I would adjust the orientation so that at my prefered angle of engagement the sight was correct L/R and U/D. Then sighting it in becomes much easier. But for reflex sights you can't do that. I tend to prefer mini reflex sights as offset red dots, like the Burris FastFire, SightMark mini, C-More STS, P-F Spec Ops, or Doctor. I would lump the Aimpoint micro in with the Vortex SPARC as sights that would work there also.
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photoracer
Member
I PMed that to you first, then posted here in the thread... Love the setup.
Who makes that enlarged power switch adapter you have on the Mamba? I need something like that
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