refinish 38-44 heavy duty?

Dad's S&W

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Hi, I found this 38-44 in my dad's gun parts box. I cleaned it up as best I could. As you can see the bluing is gone, there are major pits, but it still locks up tight, and the barrel is in good shape.

Should I send it to Ford's to have it refinished or just keep it that way?
 

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Dad's,

The gun is in pretty sad shape. The saving grace is that it all seems to be there and, other than severe neglect, it wasn't butchered up. I'd guess that is what one would look like after banging around in the bilge of a shrimp boat for most of its life:(.

I probably wouldn't spend a lot of money on it unless it has some historical significance. Since you don't have any investment in it, I would spend the $50 for a letter on the outside chance that it might be significant in some way.

You'll probably spend at least $500 on a refinish (and several hundred more for the proper grips) and it will still be just a "shooter"...maybe a good one, but still just a "shooter".

Let me add that, if you can get the rust removed from the innards to the point that they are functional (and you should be able to do that for much less than the cost of a complete refinish. then I might consider doing some tough finish on the exterior so that the gun could serve as a fine utility gun.


Bob
 
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Hi, I found this 38-44 in my dad's gun parts box.

Maybe your Dad found it in that condition and intended to "cannibalize" it should the need arise.

Heavy Duties have only achieved "collectible" status over the past decade or so. Before that they (and M58s) were widely regarded as the "black sheep" of the N frame family.

Our instinct is to try to salvage every prewar Smith&Wesson...especially the N frames. But, some are just not salvagable. That does not mean it is trash. Primary components such as the barrel and cylinder may be useable. Even a "rough" barrel and/or cylinder could possibly be rebored as part of a custom project. And, internal parts for a prewar gun are not the easiest thing in the world to find (which, as previously stated, was possibly why Dad had it in the "parts box").

If you do not want it for parts, perhaps a gunsmith or a custom gunmaker like Hamilton Bowen would be willing to take it off your hands.
 
Unfortunately nothing can be done about the pitting. Refinishing won't help much. If you spend many hundreds of dollars on it it will still be pitted. I have a revolver that is pitted and someone had it refinished and it looks like a pitted gun with a new finish over the pitting.

If it were mine, I would polish it as shiney as possible and use cold blue on it. It won't look great but nothing will make it look great and this would only cost $10 or so.

Then shoot it and carry it without concern because the damage is done and you can't really hurt it much more.

I cold blued this old rifle and it doesn't look half bad. Looks better in person than it does in the photo.


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The severe pitting that is 'under the wood',,,on the sides of the grip straps and the sides of the frame that would be covered by the grips would most probably not completely come clean with a refinish. However, those areas would be again covered with a set of magna style grips so as not to show, but the rust could be stopped. Going way over the top,,the areas could be cleaned up with TIG, but unless this is really something special, I don't think that is probably an option here.

The rest of the revolver is actually not that bad and could be repolished w/o much problem and either reblued or nickled.

Again the question is wether the expense of the work is acceptable to you for what the gun is and will be when completed.

If it means alot to you from a personal stand point/family connection,,then it may well be worth it to you to restore it.
Others may see it as only spending money to refinish and never getting it back in a resale situation.

If you're just looking to clean it up for a shooter .38 to hang on to, then just de-rust it, clean and check the mechanics and go. As for an outside finish, a bead blast & hotblue will make it look pretty good w/o much expense. I'd probably just clean it up and keep it a well worn 'grey' gun' myself.
 
I concur with the what others have said. Too far gone for serious restoration and really no potential for return on the investment. I would "do it myself", a good clean up, a light bead blast, armor coat, set of utility grips and have fun shooting.
 
Bettis1 gave you the best advice. Have a (relatively inexpensive) aftermarket tough finish put on it to protect it, and use it. Check Brownells for some of the new technology self applied finish's. They stand up well to lots of wear.
 
Great advise, I think will do the finish myself. Now with that said, Do I take the gun to a smith and have them take it apart, refinish it and take it back to them to reassembly?
 
Get a gunsmith to see if it is safe to shoot, if not, its a parts gun or a wall hanger. If refinished and its unsafe, all you have is a pretty, expensive, very heavy paperweight. If its good to shoot, put some servicable grips on it and enjoy shooting it and appreciate it as is. Its got character.
 
Send your pictures to Hamilton Bowen. If anybody can do something to it-he can. Or de-rust the inside and shoot the hell out of it as is.
 
I wish I could put some pics on but the guy wouldn't sell it to me. I answered a prowler call about a year ago and upon arrival I found the caller standing in the front yard with a 4" 38/44. It was once owned by his grandfather who had been a constable back in the 40's. The gun had been re-nickeled a long time ago and the trigger, hammer, flutes, sights, and cylinder release had been gold plated. The caller let me look at it. The ammo looked as old as the gun. The gun was tight mechanically but the finish was a little rough. C.L., I thank you every day for the one you sold me.
 
how's the bore? If Ok I'd have the guts cleaned up and leave it alone. Then shoot the hell out of it. Just consider it a Dad momento. That's just what I would do. I really like it the way it is. And don't forget my motto: When in doubt, do nothing. It's the most inexpensive route. And you can always change your mind later.
 
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