Reload data?

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Looking for load data for 40 cal 155 gr LRN. Using auto comp or titegroup powder.
 
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Did you buy a reloading manual? Will your next 23 posts continue to be about resizing, powder, ....................................................... ?

We all started by buying the book and learning how to do safe reloading. Reloading manuals are published by bullet companies, powder companies, and Lyman. Reloading data is also available from websites on the internet.

EDIT: Load data for lead bullets doesn't change for different nose profiles in handgun calibers. Load data for a heavier bullet will work with a lighter bullet if the bullet weights are close. Starting powder charge (and +0.2 grains) for a 140 to 160 grain bullet will be safe, but may not reliably cycle the slide. The starting charge for a 180 to 200 grain bullet will not cycle the slide, but the mid-range load for this weight bullet will be safe and may cycle reliably.

Additional reading also indicates that bullet weight is more important than bullet profile for the powder charge weight. Bullet profile has a significant affect on cartridge overall length. COL with "pointy" bullets is generally longer than round nose or wadcutter bullets. Checking websites of plated bullet makers will provide information that mid-range load data for cast lead bullets or starting load data for jacketed bullets is safe for plated bullets.

For semi-auto cartridges, there is a common perception of correct bullet "length" . The major diameter of the bullet needs to extend beyond the case mouth 0.010" to 0.020" to facilitate feeding from the mag into the chamber. But the bullet must fit in the magazine, and the slide must lock up on a chambered round. Slide lockup is why the "Plunk Test" is important -- remove the barrel from the firearm, hold the barrel vertical & chamber up, drop the loaded round into the chamber from 2" in the air, and you need to hear PLUNK. If you don't hear plunk, something is wrong with the cartridge.
 
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No, I haven't bought a book, but I do regularly use the web site for load data. Unfortunately Hodgdon does not provide data for this type of projectile. It sounds like your forum is the wrong place to ask a question. I will try some others. Did not realize Smith and Wesson was so stuffy. By the way I would like to say thanks to JWalts27 for the info.
 
Let's put it this way.....

Sorry you got a bad taste for the forum, this is a great place to learn when people aren't cranky.

There are two types of info found in reloading manuals:

1) Load data

2) Many contain a good 'how to' section that you need to be very familiar with. There are some tricky ins and outs to reloading, and safety depends on more factors than bullet/powder combination. The Lyman and Speer books I have contain good instructions for reloading straight wall, semi auto and bottleneck rifle cartridges. Some cartridges are forgiving, others not so. It is vital to study this before attempting to reload anything.

Getting a reloading manual is the first step to having safe control and over what you are doing.

Here's an example: There is a lot of room in a .38 cartridge. You HAVE to have a methodology to prevent double charges of a fast burning powder like Bullseye. A double charge of such will blow up your gun and maybe your hand with it. Even when set up to prevent double charges, I still inspect levels in the cases with a flashlight before seating bullets.

Another example: Semi auto cartridges are VERY touchy when it comes to the overall length of the cartridge with the seated bullet. Setting the bullet too deep can raise pressures beyond safe levels. Study C.O.A.L. and get a pair of calipers.
 
No worries-there are a few of the mindset that if its not in print in XYZ loading manual it cant possibly be safe. (even though there are more commercial bullet casters and producers of bullets than there are reloading manuals)

They probably still look in Sears catalogs that are couple inches thick and use hard copy yellow pages instead of google. However if you want to learn about old S&W's and cool history of revolvers there is probably no better place to be.

Heres a couple reference points to answer your question

155 GR. BERB FP Winchester AutoComp .400" 1.125" 6.7 1091 24,800 PSI 7.3 1200 31,600 PSI

155 GR. BERB FP Hodgdon Titegroup .400" 1.125" 5.1 1051 26,200 PSI 5.7 1151 33,600 PSI

The data is reference to Berry's plated bullets which will be close to lead bullet data. The starting data is certainly safe to start with. COAL will be different with your bullet and specific handgun. Hope this helps.
 
I may be speaking for the veteran handloaders here but please understand the frustration of the role in this community.
They have to put up with me.

seriously though, we've seen an alarming trend in newcomers.
So much ambition, and so little patience.
They bring home a pile of gear and neglect the stack of books for sale right next to said gear.
While it is possible to train someone without the reference material, it is an easy process, it is a long and painful chore that we are not paid to do.
I told one of the most painful cases that he really needed to send us coffee after the 23rd crisis.
GROUNDS OR ROUNDS was the ultimatum.
We often put up with more than we should have to, and grow wary of those who fit this emerging profile.
You have displayed two of the major criteria already.

Lose the tude dude.
 
No offense intended to the OP, but I think it is a poor and somewhat reckless practice to ask for specific load data on any discussion board. I think it is good to get info from veteran handloaders that can be compared with established data to get an idea of what one might expect. I would not expect anyone to take something I posted and go try it in his gun without checking it against something else. I don't even trust a single manual. Most of the loads I try are compared against at least 2 reputable sources.

I don't even feel comfortable giving out specific load info from my personal log because I have no idea what the other guy's gun and reloading setup are like. I did the workup with my stuff so I know it works in mine safely.

That said I have learned a tremendous amount of really useful things in this particular forum, and I am by no means new to handloading.
 
Man, that is....

That said I have learned a tremendous amount of really useful things in this particular forum, and I am by no means new to handloading.

Man, that is an understatement if I ever heard one. There are forums devoted to reloading, but they cover a REALLY wide range of calibers for long and short guns. Most everybody here is closer to what I'm trying to do. Not like trying to use black powder in a .338 Lapua Magnum. Now when I was researching very reduced loads for lead bullets in .30 caliber rifles, I did range out a little and got some great help.
 
Load Data Correction

No worries, OP. The 40 is designated such because it can hold up to 40 grains, (or is that ounces, I forget) of powder. It really makes no difference, metric stuff is about the same as American anyway.

The parent case of the 40 S&W was the original 10 MM Bren, almost as rare and elusive as that mystical 22 LR cartridge rumored to be in production -- by the millions. :eek:

The correct load data is 10 (edit) grams because of its metric origin. By all means check published data before proceeding.
 
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Whew. Folks musta had vinegar on their cheerios this morning.

Yes, we see some of the same type of questions over and over. I've only been here a bit to realize that happens. Let's see if we can put a figurative arm on a fellas shoulder and explain to them the error in their ways. Help them along a little. Many of you have a massive amount of knowledge now, but we all started out with none. I'm still real close to that now, and need all the help I can get. :)
 
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Well, if you are loading.....

No worries, OP. The 40 is designated such because it can hold up to 40 grains, (or is that ounces, I forget) of powder. It really makes no difference, metric stuff is about the same as American anyway.

Fill the case with whatever you have handy (the stuff that looks like sprinkles is my favorite) and pour out enough to allow the bullet to go in. You can just eyeball this step, I don't know why people get all mathy about it.

Anyway, make sure you do A couple of hundred of them. There's no sense wasting time on setups and tear down.

Have fun, Braa. It's all good.

Well, if you are loading with Trail Boss, this is right thinking. Except the first try should be a leetle bit less than the bottom of the bullet. Of course everybody knows what a 'leetle bit' is. Bigger than a smidge but smaller than a tad.:D:D:D
 
look up Winchester autocomp and you will find yourself at the Winchester site go to reloading data plug your info in and they will give you a load.

in 40s&w with a sig p229 with a 155gn hollow point I used 7gn of autocomp and everything went quite well.:eek: use at your own rik
 
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The parent case of the 40 S&W was the original 10 MM Bren, almost as rare and elusive as that mystical 22 LR cartridge rumored to be in production -- by the millions. :eek:

The correct load data is 10 grains because of its metric origin. By all means check published data before proceeding.
but grains is not a metric unit, wouldn't that be 10 grams?
 
I think originally they actually counted the grains of the coarse black powder that they used. 10 grams of powder would be around 155 grains of powder using current weights.
 
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