Reload for 686 38/357

[Big Kev]

I have just purchased a new set of three dies from Lee for 38/357 Cal and I am wondering do I need the forth die. I am shooting Center fire over 25 yards with a 686 and I am just starting to reload and I want to get it right.
I am relatively new to reloading as you most likely can tell. I am using an old Turret press. I intend to use the 357 case and a SWC or HBWC pushed down flush with the case. I would like to know if I am on the right track as I am looking for a much consistency as possible. Is the selection of lead ok and do I need the forth die ?

If someone can advise me, I would be very thankful. Kevin

 

[OKFC05]

I am looking for a much consistency as possible.

Do you understand exactly what you are saying here? If you really mean this, then no, you can't do this with "an old turret press and 3 dies."
However, I suspect that a properly adjusted load with the equipment you have should provide all the practical accuracy needed for most purposes.

By the way, you need to read a good loading manual carefully. While it is common to load WC flush with light loads, you can't automatically assume you can just load SWC flush with any given load. Find the load you want in a manual and pay attention to seating depth. Lead SWC generally have a crimping groove, and that is where the mouth of the case goes.

Without more information on your intended purpose, I don't know offhand what else to say.

 

[growr]

OKFCO5 hit it right on with buy and reading a good reloading manual as they are chuck full of valuable information. Most of us have 4-5 manuals at least.

Randy

 

[kshock]

Lead is fine and what most PPC competitors shoot. No, you do not need a fourth die. Good luck in your quest

 

[Palmetto Sharpshooter]

For the 148 grain HBWC, I always used 2.7 grains of Bullseye with a Federal 100 primer.

For the 158 grain SWC, I use 3.6 grains of Bullseye.

 

[jrhoney]

You shouldn't need to seat a SWC flush with a .357 Magnum case in an L Frame cylinder. You might for an N Frame .357 but for an L Frame should be fine so long as you check the OAL of the cartridge.

 

[H Richard]

OKFCO5 said the most important thing, get and read a good current reloading manual. There are lots of things an uneducated reloader can do accidentally that may be dangerous to himself or others.

Once you are familiar with the process and mechanics of reloading, then determine what and how you will reload. WC bullets seated flush are for mild target loads, and SWC bullets may be loaded from mile to potent depending on your use. Plinking at paper and tin cans does not require potent loads. Various competitions will require power factor that you will need to load up to. I recommend you starting loading in the mild to mid range. Be aware that loading data for one bullet of 158 gr. may be not appropriate for another bullet of 158 gr. different shape and content (cast lead, swagged lead, or jacked don't load the same). A Sierra bullet and a Speer bullet may not give the same accuracy with the same load. For most uses with a handgun, a 3 die set is adequate, (that's why they sell them that way). If you are loading for a model 52 S&W or are loading with a taper crimp, for top level competition, using a 4th die for crimp only is recommended.

 

[MarkDozier]

Not bad. but some incorrect dope. The 38/357 usually uses a crimp die. That is what I use. I run the 38 spl with a lite crimp.

 

[ferggie]

I have fallen in love with this load for my 686 2-1/2"

158Gr SWC (X-Treme, plated)
3.8 gn W-231
1.455 OAL
Fed primer

Found to be super accurate and repeatable.

 

[Prof_Fate]

I use a loadmaster progressive with 5 die positions. I started with 9mm and the word was to get the FCD (factory crimp die) as 9's don't roll crimp like 38s and the post-size is good for semi autos.

It's also easier to set up separate dies for pullet depth and crimp rather than trying to get it all in one, at least in my experience, especially if you load more than one type of bullet - at least in 9 you 'crimp' to the .3795 dimention regardless of bullet type so you never have to adjust the crimp/FCD when changing bullet types.

Of course with a progressive the 'extra' step takes no time - on more pull on the last cartridge at a loading session is all. Using a turret you'll add an extra pull to every round. You'll have to decide if that's what you want to do, or need to do, or not.

 

[rockyrider]

.38 Special

I've had good luck for years with 148 and 158 grain semi wadcutters. I use 2.8 grains of red dot or bullseye interchangeably. Model 15-4",19-6",and Ruger blackhawk 6".

 

[mike smith 1002]

I have reloaded since 1970 and my 3 die set has been adequate The advice on reloading manuals is criticle buy 2 and compare data online infornation FROM manufacturers of powder / bullets is good BEWARE information from other web contributers , I load ,38 , ,357 and ,44 with thre die sets w/o problem. Start on low side and work up SHOOT thats the reason for reloading you will see what worjs and doesent work
good luck and welcome to the reloading group
Msmith sgt USMC

 

[Cdog]

I use the standard built in roll crimp. The only time I use a separate step is if I'm loading something like ultra heavy recoiling rounds in the .44 mags and up.

There no reason your old turret can't load match quality rounds.

I've used turret presses to load excellent rifle ammo.

Measure the groups, measure the runout, measure what you will? The turret platform isn't an automatic handicap for accuracy.