Reload Manual

sw1115

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New guy to metallic reloading looking for suggestions for manual. ABC's of Reloading or Lyman's#? or ?. Thanks in advance for the help. Skip
 
New guy to metallic reloading looking for suggestions for manual. ABC's of Reloading or Lyman's#? or ?. Thanks in advance for the help. Skip

Yes, buy them all! :)

Am I getting this right? Your name is Skip too?

WAZZUPWITDAT? :D
 
As a reloader starting out I would suggest the ABC's of Reloading to start. I would also recommend the Lyman manual and as many factory manuals (Speer, Sierre, Hornady, etc.) as your pocket book will support. I have about a dozen stareing me in the face right now and there are about 6 or 8 more in my reloading cave in the basement. The main thing is to read, read and read some more. By the way, you just started a lifetime hobby. Reloading becomes an adiction in short order. If I can help you, drop me a line or just ask here on the forum. There's always somebody knowledgeable willing to help. Enjoy, James
 
Thank you both for the quick replies. I've been reloading shot shell for a while so I'm familiar with the read,read and then read somemore process. I'm starting out with 38 spl. loads and it looks like 3.5 grains of bullseye and 158 lswc might be the place to start. I have a Lee 1000 that was given to me to start with and I'll see where it goes from there. What do you recommend for a primer? Anyway thanks for the info, I'm sure I'll be hanging around here for awhile. And yes my name is Skip also.
 
Primers with bullseye are not critical. If you move on to ball powders magnum primers give better ignition. Most manuals warn that their data is based on the components they used. In practice, unless you are pushing max loads, any standard primer is fine. I have been loading since the 60s, and have used Remington, Win, CCI, federal, Alcan interchangeably with no problems. With the primer shortage we experienced last year you pretty much had to use whatever you could find. I tend to lean toward CCI but like Winchester Large primers because they are rated for Ball powders. This means one primer covers two load ranges. I have in my bench primers from all four makers mentioned above. For any one batch of ammo I do use the same brand of primer.
 
Thanks. I'll shop around and see whats available in my area tomorrow
 
IMO the best Manuals are Lyman's 49th and Hodgdon #26. Lee's Second Edition is also extremely useful(but being a compilation of Powder company data and given the variations in test barrel lengths and specs the relative performance of loads must be taken with skepticism and the Alliant data for 38 spl was utterly wimpy and ridiculous at the time that one was compiled) The more manuals the better. I have a shelf full of them. When you find a particular charge weight and bullet weight combo listed in many sources it inspires a great degree of confidence that there are unlikely to be any surprises. When you are after a relatively obscure cartridge/bullet/powder combo having many manuals can provide data to get you started.
 
I have found that the Lyman 49th edition is a good jump off point for those starting with metallic reloading. It is well written and easy to understand. Several new reloaders that I have recommended this manual to have said that it was just what they needd. Having said that, listen to the advice above, and get as much info as possible. Years ago, the only way to get this info was in print. These days, there is a ton of data online on the powder manufacturer sites. Good luck.


WG840
 
Well, Skip, (sounds like I am talking to myself! :) Weird!) you are starting with a great load. It's the exact same one I did a back in the day! With Bullseye it doesn't matter which primer, its true but, you are using one of the most economic loads out there so, keeping in line with that, I use Wolfe primers. Of course, I use them for everything nowadays. Wideners has them for $15/1000. If you buy 5000 its $75 + the hazmat fee, $25 or so, meaning your primers will cost $100 for 5000 or $20/1000, still cheap. Buy 10,000 and the price is $150 + $25 and brings the price per $1000 to $17.50. Just think about it.

The best part of the manuals is the stuff in the front though. I usually get my data from the web. Powder companies, loaddata.com, are all good resources.

I would suggest getting the Lee manual. While the front is quite thick, it is more like a sales flier, still good information about their stuff though, the data section is extensive. It is a conglomeration of a lot of sources.


The only other thing that I would like to encourage you to do is get into casting. While I haven't gotten to the point where I am totally self sufficient, making powder and primers, I do have the type of bullets I want when I want them in the quantities I want them for the price I want to pay for them. During the recent shortages, I had all I wanted of the same bullets that I have shot for a while now! Something else to ponder.
 
Well I drop my better half off at the Sig academy today for a pistol course and than proceeded to drive to Cabelas to get some stuff. Got Lyman 49, some CCi primers and a bunch of misc stuff. My Lee 1000 has dies for 40 and 9mm. I looked at a set of carbides in 38spl. but didn't buy it yet cause the lee has 3 hole and the carbides come with 4 dies. When I got home I went on Ebay to sniff around and came across a 3 to 4 hole conversion plate. Intresting. Has anybody had any experience with this setup. Sounds like a good idea. Going to read somemore will check back soon Skip
 
Also I saw 158gr. swc for $54 for 500. What should I be looking to pay for these.. Keep in mind that I live in the commie wealth of Mass and we can't buy any componets through the mail
 
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