Reload or buy bulk????

[MrG5122]

I reload for the 'normal' calibers, .223, 45acp, 9mm, etc. One cool thing about reloading is being able to load for obscure calibers and not worrying about factory ammo availability. I found a deal on a Model 53 that included dies, bullets, and brass. I was shooting the Jet the day after I got it. I also have a RIA .22TCM. While factory ammo is available, though scarce, I can load it for about a third of the cost. While trying to decide on the caliber for my last AR build I ran across the .458SOCOM. Factory ammo is in the $3/bang range but I can load it for less than factory .223 match ammo. FWIW the SOCOM is a BEAST!!

I just like knowing that if I run across an obscure jewel at a shop or gun show all I have to worry about is scrounging up some brass.

Everyone has their own reasons to reload.

 

[MyDads38]

I have been a reloader for 35 years and have loaded several rifle and handgun calibers over those years. I currently load for 223/5.56; 38 Spec.; 9mm; 40 S&W and 45acp. I can also cast my own bullets.

That being said, lately 223/5.56 ammo prices have come down considerably, IMO. I have seen prices as low as $299/1,000 rounds, brass cased/reloadable 55 gr. FMJ loaded/ready to shoot ammo. You can typically find Federal/L.C. for $349/1,000 rounds. For comparison, if you had to buy ALL the components to reload 1,000 rounds, it would cost you around $313 PROVIDED you already had press, dies and necessities to load them. Varget Powder $25/lb-requires 4 lbs/1,000 rounds = $100 + 1,000 primers - $35 + 1,000 55 gr. FMJ bullets - $89 + 1,000 pcs. brass (Mil) - $89 = $313.00. I'm being "generous" with pricing, since these are prices in my area. Don't forget, primer pockets need crimp removed and cases checked/trimmed for length; in addition to regular reloading practices. On a single stage press, how long would it take you to load 1,000 rounds? How long on a progressive? Is that time worth at least the $36 you would save loading it yourself?

I don't shoot my AR-15 much. I have 1,000 rounds reloads and 1,000 rounds factory in my stash. At $6.49-$6.99/box for factory ammo, it's really not worth the time and effort it takes to load them myself. BUT, I keep the components on hand IN CASE the factory ammo dries up like it did these past few years; at that time, reloading can be a blessing and can keep you shooting, while others have to stay home and WISH they could shoot their firearms!

When 9mm factory ammo goes on sale or is priced $9.97/box (Fed. Alum.) or $10.99/box (REM-UMC) or $11.99/box (Blazer Brass) - I BUY IT! Yeah I can still save a buck or two loading it myself, but sometimes I guess I'm just lazy and would rather shoot it, than load it-there, I said it FWIW, at 2,000 rounds/year, I'd just buy it and have some fun!

 

[johngalt]

I reload pistol, not rifle. IMO, reloading .223 makes less sense from a purely financial perspective. Having never done it, I only can judge from what I've read, but reloading rifle appears to be more difficult and expensive than pistol.

Pistol brass lasts essentially forever, rifle brass does not. You can reload pistol brass until it splits. It is probably a bad idea to load a 50,000 psi rifle cartridge until it splits, especially since the the receiver it right next to your eye when fired. There seems to be some question as to whether it is safe to reload a case 5 times, 10, or something different. it isn't something I want to find out the hard way.

Producing precision rifle ammo also requires a lot more attention to the small details.

If I was a bench shooter using a cartridge that cost $2 per shot commercially, it would make sense to reload and go through the book keeping of counting # of reloads for each piece of brass, etc.

I don't do that, and don't shoot enough rifle to make it worth the bother. I do keep my old brass in case the day comes when I can't get it commercially. The freedom that comes with the ability to make your own ammo is something that isn't easily measured in $. I found that out with the difficulty in finding pistol ammo 6 years ago.

 

[rwsmith]

If you have......

If you have more money and less time, buy.

If you have more time and less money, reload.

A couple of points:

Reloading is worth it even if you don't have time or money because it is enjoyable and you learn a lot.

Reloading doesn't save money if you have to keep buying tools and gadgets. If you can stick with the basics, like I do, you save money. I'm poor and cheap and I HATE buying factory ammo. It's more fun to shoot my own stuff.

 

[fredj338]

Even buying new stuff, I still save a ton reloading. It really comes down to how much you shoot & what calibers. Shoot 223 & 9mm, you save less. Shoot 308, 45acp,10mm, 357sig, any of the magnums, even 380, you can save enough to buy a new 650 in a year.

 

[scooter123]

Lots of good advice being given here. One of them primarily being that you won't save much money by reloading, you'll just shoot more. There is a lot of truth in that, even here in Michigan where any range that receives DNR sponsorship requires that centerfire rifles be loaded one round at a time.

So what are the benefits?

First, your per round cost will go down. BTW, I don't think it's possible to assemble a 223 round for a cost of 20 cents as quoted, last time I did the math I was loading 223 with 10 cents worth of powder, 3 1/2 cents worth of primer, and about 18 cents worth of bullet. However, I am an accuracy nut so I don't load with the cheapest bullet that can be found. Realistically, figure on 25 to 35 cents per round for 223. For 38 special, figure about 10.5 cents per round using plated bullets. For 9mm, the cost is nearly identical to 38 special. For 357 Magnum, my accuracy nut come to the forefront so the bullets do get pricey. I like the Hornady XTP line which will run about 18 cents each when they are on sale. Tip, when bullets are on sale BUY IN BULK. The 357 Magnum also uses more powder, so figure on 357 Magnums costing 25-20 cents each. BTW, a well "tuned" load of 357 Magnum can shoot sub 1 MOA out of a good rifle, so don't buy into that baloney about lever actions only being 2 MOA capable. For the 40 S&W the bullets do cost more, last time I stocked up I bought 3000 at 90 dollars per 1000. So figure on 15-18 cents per round for 40 caliber. For 45 ACP bullets to up again, go figure there actually is a price per pound for lead and 230 grain bullets are rather heavy. Just checked an my favorite 230 grain plated pills are 12 cents each, so figure on a cost of 18 cents each. Next, 300 Blackout. Just tested some loads with the new AR I just finished and one load shot to 3/4 MOA, so that myth about 300 Blackout being a 2 MOA caliber is just that, a MYTH. The bullet used for that accurate load was a Hornady 125 grain SST purchased from Midway for 30.99/100. Poweder used was H110 at 15.6 grains and the CCI 400 primers have been running 35 dollars/1000 locally. So, 0.31 + 5.5 + 3.5 or 40 cents per round for 300 Blackout. Finally there is the 308 Winchester, another load where I get to be an Accuracy Nut and pay big bucks for bullets. my favorite Lapua Scenar run about 50 cents each, powder is about 19 cents, primer is 3.5 cents, and case cost is about 3.5 cents, so the 308 runs about 86 cents per round.

Note, for the most part I don't consider the case cost. The reason for this is that I have yet to find the peak accuracy at a maximum powder charge so even with 357 Magnum I'm only loading to something around 27,000 PSI. This means that my cases last so long I have no grasp on the number of reloads on them. As for 223 or 300 Blackout, those are both recent acquisitions and peak accuracy for both calibers have been rather close to recommended starting charges, so I expect a minimum of 8-10 reloads and perhaps more. With Lake City cases running a dime each, that means a case cost of something like a penny per round.

Take note that I've found my most accurate Rifle loads run much closer to the Starting charge than the Maximum charge. In addition to the accuracy benefit you'll also extend the life of your cases. Finally, every rifle barrel is different in how much pressure is generated at a specific powder charge. So, that advice to start low and work up is just plain SMART in terms of Accuracy, Case Life, and Safety.

 

[iouri]

It's funny how OP just dropped this juicy topic and left

 

[Username0704]

It's funny how OP just dropped this juicy topic and left

I didn't leave

 

[m657]

"The more I shoot the more I save"

The more I save the more gun stuff I can afford.

The more gun stuff I have the more I use it.

Have you seen what green fees or a bass boat costs these days? You can't reload those easily.

 

[Twoboxer]

. . . BTW, I don't think it's possible to assemble a 223 round for a cost of 20 cents as quoted, last time I did the math I was loading 223 with 10 cents worth of powder, 3 1/2 cents worth of primer, and about 18 cents worth of bullet. However, I am an accuracy nut so I don't load with the cheapest bullet that can be found. Realistically, figure on 25 to 35 cents per round for 223. . . .

Remember the basis for comparison . . . BULK ammo vs HANDLOADED ammo. Saving $0.20 per round yields a 2 year payback and a 50%-100% return on investment every year thereafter.

It's pretty easy to make 223 ammo that will outperform any bulk ammo purchased for $0.20 per round. The following comes from today's pricing at Powder Valley:

Hornady 55gr SP or FMJBTw/c - $0.0817
H335 @24.5gr - $0.0638
Tula SR Primers - $0.0235
Hazmat shipping spread over 2,285 rounds (8lbs H335) = $0.0125

Total ex brass = $0.1815/ round

Frankly, purchasing bulk 223 ammo @$0.40/round isn't all that easy to do every day. So $0.20 per round is pretty easy, and even if it were just $0.15 savings, its still a great proposition.

If you are an accuracy nut, yes, you will spend more money on bullets and maybe even powder. But try buying THAT ammo for $0.20/round more than handloading costs. You can't.

So if you are an accuracy nut, you will save even more money per round. Far more. To be fair, in this case you will probably buy more equipment, but the payback and return will be quick.

Finally, it's a real shame the joke that "you won't save any money reloading, you'll just shoot more" has taken such root.

Spending saved money on other things is the very reason we try to save money. Otherwise it's pointless.

 

[slayer1962]

reloading

First I reload because your reloads will outperform all but the most expensive premium grade ammo. second the cost does not hurt as much. third I reload when I have time and always have components on hand. so no ammo shortage for me when everyone else was looking I was reloading by the thousands

 

[rwsmith]

The more you shoot....

Even buying new stuff, I still save a ton reloading. It really comes fish to how much you shoot & what calibers. Shoot 223 & 9mm, you save less. Shoot 308, 45acp,10mm, 357sig, any of the magnums, you can save enough to buy a new 650 in a year.

The more you shoot, the more you save.

 

[carpriver]

I have only been reloading for about 10 years. I reload 9mm, 38spl, 357 mag.S&W, 44spl,44 mag. 45acp, 45 colt, 5.56/223 and just started loading the 308win. I enjoy shooting and I enjoy reloading. I am able to tailor my loads to my needs or how lite or heavy I want them. When My granddaughters are visiting I can load some lite loads for them so they enjoy their time shooting. The more shoot the more I learn about reloading.

I have learned a lot about loading the 308 win. about the sizing the case. I am loading for a bolt rifle and the brass I got was fired in a semi auto or auto rifle so a full sizing was needed and that was anew step for me. sizing, trimming, champhering, the removing the primer crimp etc. but I have a fine round that is accurate. Do I save money, maybe.

 

[snowman]

Finally, it's a real shame the joke that "you won't save any money reloading, you'll just shoot more" has taken such root.

Finally, a breath of fresh air re this issue. Thank you, Twoboxer.

Andy

 

[fredj338]

Yes, using today's prices, you can load bulk 55gr 223 for less than 20c per:
Hornady 55gr - 0.08
S&B srp - 0.025
H322 or sim - 0.08
All bought in some bulk of course, like 5k primers, 8# of powder & 5-6k bullets. That includes shipping if bought online. If you buy once fired brass, add another penny per rd, amortized over 6-8 reloads.
If surplus powders make a come back, cheaper still. Buy components now, in 5 yrs your cost will be cheaper still.

 

[Porc1148]

I'm a newbie . Have been reloading only about 2years now. I shoot 9mm. I am retired and have time to pursue this as a hobby. I shoot about 200 rounds per week. I use a Lee turret press and dies. Paying about $33 for a Winchester white box twice a week gets expensive. I don't count the pennies saved per round I just enjoy reloading my own ammo.

 

[Magload]

I love to eat fish and always bought my fresh fish at the local fish market. One day while walking I saw some guys catching fish from the pier and thought hey I could buy a pole, some hooks and bait and eat really fresh fish real cheap. Well I caught fish okay and seems the best time was later and later at night. So a friend says let's buy a small row boat and get away from this pier a catch some bigger and different fish. A year later we caught bigger fish but had to go out farther and farther then the little boat developed a small leak that kept getting worse and the poles were too light. So we ponied up our money fixed the boat and bought better tackle. Last time out in that boat we could see some bigger better boats farther out catching more fish. We knew if we wanted more and different fish we needed more boat and more poles, fish finders, radar, GPS, bait tanks. Today I'm setting in the cockpit of a lovely 60' Rybovich with more poles and equipment than I can use and you know I still only like two kinds of fish and buy it at the same fish market, but I know a lot about fishing. Not a true story

Ha been there do that for real but those trips 60 miles off the coast sure made the fish cost a lot per pound. Now the gold 4/0 and 6/0 reeel and rods hang from the gun room ceiling and I am thinking of trading them for guns. Don