Reloading 9mm ammo?

[2001gmc]

I would like to get into reloading my 9mm ammo since I like to shoot so much it might save me some money. I know absolutly nothing about it what so ever. What would I need to get started to start reloading my 9mm rounds? I normally shoot the PMC Bronze, Winchester white box, or Independence all 115gr FMJ. I would like to have some hollow points if it takes the same reloader but dont have to have them. Is there a kit for the 9mm that comes with everything I need to reload? I'm sure the bullets and powder will be purchased separate and I will have brass because I shoot all the time. I shop at cabelas mostly as far as ordering anything off line or bassproshops. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!

Is there anyone on here that reloads in the Mt. Home Arkansas area? Send me a PM.

 

[robertrwalsh]

A lot of it depends on how deep your pocket is. You can spend more and get a nice Dillon progressive reloader, or go a lot less money and get a single stage press by Lyman. You will need supplies of course (cases, powder, primers, bullets). A case tumbler is very important, your dies will last much longer if you clean the cases before you work with them. A powder measure and a decent scale. A loading block or two for holding the cases while you are working with them.

Somewhere on here there is a recent thread with a lot of good info on this exact subject. If you can find it, it will save you a lot of trouble, (and others a lot of typing).

 

[2001gmc]

Yea I been looking at some of the stuff to do this and it could get really expensive. Thanks for your info.

 

[sourdough44]

I would 1st get a reloading manual or book to read & look over. For a press I'd go single stage, or at the most a 'turret' type press. If you get an idea of what you need you can decide if you want to get a 'kit' or go piecemeal. There is a lot of reloading gear that you don't really need starting off with straight wall handgun rounds.

 

[Wee Hooker]

Basically you need a press, powder measure, scale. priming device, reloading manual and dies ( in your caliber..) The Lee Classic Turret Kit at Cabelas will work great and pay for itself in the first couple of thousand rounds. Just add a Lee 4 die set and your good to go ( Once you buy bullets, powder (W231!) and primers of course.)
That said, you might be able to piece that same kit together for cheaper $ if you shop around.
Search "Lee Classic Turret" for reviews/ specifics.
This is a frequent topic.

 

[Harrison]

Depends on how much you want to shoot. If you only go through a box of 50 once a week, go with a regular press. If you would like to shoot 100+ rounds a week. Go with a Dillon. The Square Deal B press is their most in-expensive and works well, especially for a smaller cartridge like the 9mm. The 550 is a good all around press that will also reload rifle up to .308 size and is built like a bank vault.

Dillion stands behing their equipment and will repair or replace for the life of the press. I have a 550 that I bought in 1994. It has reloaded many hundredes of thousandts of rounds and is still going strong. The only replacement needed, was a couple of springs (one of which I lost), and a couple of small plastic pieces on the powder measure. I called Dillion and they sent me the parts free.

Arguably you could say Dillon is the Gold Standard for progessive presses. I have friends that bought other brands and they were not happy campers after using them for awhile.

 

[Kevin G]

I think it's great that in you're post you're seeking to connect w/an experienced reloader. I'd suggest you put hardware purchases on hold, do some reading and find someone to mentor you a bit. You'll be a much more informed shopper at that point and possibly have a better idea of exactly what you'll need.
FWIW when I first started reloading 9mm was one of the calibers. I used to pick up the range brass while the "donors" questioned my sanitiy around reloading 9mm because factory loads were so cheap. Now we're all shoulder to shoulder picking up 9mm's.
Good Luck, Kevin

 

[mnhogrider]

How much 9MM do you shoot a week? The reality of handloading for most of us is that it doesn't save any money, but it allows us to shoot more.

Buy yourself a copy of "The ABC's Of Reloading" book and then maybe find somebody that hand loads at the range or gun club you shoot at. This way you can get a "hands-on" lesson. Depending on how much 9MM you shoot and your looking at handloading to save you money, it might not be worth getting into. Or, if your like me, I like to do it as a hobby that I really enjoy.

I'd start with a single stage press in a kit like the RCBS. I think it's called the master reloading kit. You'll need to buy a 9MM die set and shell holder, and the components to get started.

Good luck!

 

[WR Moore]

I recently sat down with a co-worker and went through what was necessary (and what wasn't) to load pistol ammo. After looking at the total bills, a Dillon Square Deal and a scale wasn't more than a couple of bucks more than buying a quality single stage press kit and adding the necessities. It is more complex to use.

I'd avoid the low priced stuff for major parts of the process like the press, dies and measure. They're frequently low priced for good reason. You may cringe now, but "lifetime warranty" is supposed to reflect YOUR life, not that of the equipment. I'm still using a Lyman press I bought over 40 years ago.

 

[2001gmc]

How much 9MM do you shoot a week? The reality of handloading for most of us is that it doesn't save any money, but it allows us to shoot more.

Buy yourself a copy of "The ABC's Of Reloading" book and then maybe find somebody that hand loads at the range or gun club you shoot at. This way you can get a "hands-on" lesson. Depending on how much 9MM you shoot and your looking at handloading to save you money, it might not be worth getting into. Or, if your like me, I like to do it as a hobby that I really enjoy.

I'd start with a single stage press in a kit like the RCBS. I think it's called the master reloading kit. You'll need to buy a 9MM die set and shell holder, and the components to get started.

Good luck!

I would say right now I shoot maybe 100rds a month. I know that's not enough to mess with reloading. I would shoot 100rds a day if my wife would let me buy the ammo but you know how that goes. I just thought of this reloading maybe it would be cheaper and I could shoot more. Like I said I have no clue about reloading or the cost or anything. Just curious about it. Thanks for everyone's input.

 

[reyno2ac]

This will help you Handgun Cartridge Reloading Cost Calculator

Reloading can get expensive really quickly. I saved a ton of money because my dad passed all his reloading stuff down to me and the only thing I had to buy was a set of dies. Using the above calculator it is easy to see that it can take you a LONG TIME to make up the cost of the calculator if you are only shooting 100, even 200, rounds a month.

 

[mnhogrider]

I would say right now I shoot maybe 100rds a month. I know that's not enough to mess with reloading. I would shoot 100rds a day if my wife would let me buy the ammo but you know how that goes. I just thought of this reloading maybe it would be cheaper and I could shoot more. Like I said I have no clue about reloading or the cost or anything. Just curious about it. Thanks for everyone's input.

Hand loading 9MM is roughly 1/2 the cost of factory ammo. There is also the time factor that it takes to do your reloading.

At 100 rds./month unless you want to do it as a hobby, I'd just be buying factory ammo. Especially now that it's a little more easier to find.

 

[JSR III]

Another segment of reloading that hasn't really been expanded on is the time. For some folks, the time spent reloading takes them away from other more important things like young children or mowing the lawn. If however, you have spare time and you enjoy being surrounded by your guns or gun related things, then reloading time can be very therapeutic. I personally would rather be in my gun room reloading than cruising facebook or watching Jeopardy on TV.

If you feel the need to figure reloading time into the cost equation, then you probably are better off buying your ammo. If however, you take real satisfaction in knocking down a target or punching a hole in the X ring with one of the cartridges that you made, then by all means reload. Just my old humble opinion.

 

[H Richard]

As others mentioned, buy a good reloading manual first, and read it. Then start looking for equipment. Check out the want ads, and flea markets and ebay, There are lots of used equipment available for half of new. I bought a Texan turret press used back in the early 80's, and still use it for all my rifle and smaller batch handgun loads. Reloading equipment is hard to wear out. One recommendation, stay away form Lee unless you want to get frustrated, It is temperamental and doesn't stand up to volume loading. Their dies aren't too bad and I do use the primer tool.

Hand-loading is a hobby all into itself. When you buy a new gun in a new caliber just so you can work up loads for it you know you are hooked.

 

[Rule3]

Buy the Lee Modern reloading manual first. Why?, because it is the least expensive and is a good introduction to reloading. Lee equipment is also the least expensive and very easy to use for a beginner. Lee has probably started more people in reloading than anyone. For the small investment in a Lee "Kit" you are up and reloading. If you then decide it's not for you , you have not lost much in a investment.But all the others have "kits" also. I do not agree with starting out on a progressive press. Start with a single stage or a turret. You will learn more and get the fundamentals. The other brands are a bit higher quality, Dillion, RCBS, Lyman, Hornady etc. but also will cost you more initially.

If you go to the web sites they have basic introduction to reloading sections and you get a good idea of how to and what to buy.

Look at the sites and then buy a manual and then buy another manual before you buy any equipment.

Here is RCBS: Go through the guide, watch the videos, some of it is rifle but the basics are the same. Spend 30 mins or so here.

RCBS - Precisioneered Shooting Products - Reloading Guide

 

[2001gmc]

Thanks for all the info guys.

 

[whelenshooter]

I sat down and thought about the absolute minimum gear for reloading 9mm and this is what I came up with:

$31.99 Lee Reloader Press Kit
$25.99 Lee 3-die Carbide set
$0.00 Shell Holder (Comes with Lee Dies)
$0.00 Sizing Lubricant (Not needed with Carbide dies)
$11.69 Lee Auto Prime
$2.99 Lee #19 Shell Holder for Auto Prime
$2.79 Lee Chamfer and Deburring Tool
$21.99 Lee Safety Scale (I don't recommend this scale)
$0.00 Rag or paper towels (I assume you have one at home)
$21.99 Frankford Arsenal Electronic Caliper
$0.00 Loading Manual comes with Lee Reloader press kit
$2.79 Lee Powder Funnel
$122.22 Total Cost

I used Midway as a source for the prices. These items will give you a perfectly adequate, though minimal, loading outfit. You will notice I don't recommend the Lee Scale. I must say this is simply because I didn't like its looks and I've never owned one myself. Others who have used it say it is perfectly adequate. My preference would be the Dillon Eliminator scale at $54.95 instead of the Lee Scale.

This is just the equipment needed for reloading, which will last almost forever, and obviously does not include supplies like primers, powder, bullets, and brass.

Everything on the list can be upgraded at additional cost, and there are other items which make loading easier and faster that you may wish to add. Those items include: a powder trickler, a powder measure (a powder measure is the one item that will do the most to speed your reloading), case trimmers, bullet pullers, progressive presses, etc. Reloading is a great pastime for people who like gear, because there is so much reloading gear available. It is always a good idea to own several reloading manuals. The Lyman is one of the best. I like the Sierra manual for rifle loading data. The new Lyman cast bullet handbook is due to be released soon. It will be a great addition to your reloading library if you intend to shoot cast bullets, or if you wish to begin casting bullets for yourself.

 

[2001gmc]

I sat down and thought about the absolute minimum gear for reloading 9mm and this is what I came up with:

$31.99 Lee Reloader Press Kit
$25.99 Lee 3-die Carbide set
$0.00 Shell Holder (Comes with Lee Dies)
$0.00 Sizing Lubricant (Not needed with Carbide dies)
$11.69 Lee Auto Prime
$2.99 Lee #19 Shell Holder for Auto Prime
$2.79 Lee Chamfer and Deburring Tool
$21.99 Lee Safety Scale (I don't recommend this scale)
$0.00 Rag or paper towels (I assume you have one at home)
$21.99 Frankford Arsenal Electronic Caliper
$0.00 Loading Manual comes with Lee Reloader press kit
$2.79 Lee Powder Funnel
$122.22 Total Cost

I used Midway as a source for the prices. These items will give you a perfectly adequate, though minimal, loading outfit. You will notice I don't recommend the Lee Scale. I must say this is simply because I didn't like its looks and I've never owned one myself. Others who have used it say it is perfectly adequate. My preference would be the Dillon Eliminator scale at $54.95 instead of the Lee Scale.

This is just the equipment needed for reloading, which will last almost forever, and obviously does not include supplies like primers, powder, bullets, and brass.

Everything on the list can be upgraded at additional cost, and there are other items which make loading easier and faster that you may wish to add. Those items include: a powder trickler, a powder measure (a powder measure is the one item that will do the most to speed your reloading), case trimmers, bullet pullers, progressive presses, etc. Reloading is a great pastime for people who like gear, because there is so much reloading gear available. It is always a good idea to own several reloading manuals. The Lyman is one of the best. I like the Sierra manual for rifle loading data. The new Lyman cast bullet handbook is due to be released soon. It will be a great addition to your reloading library if you intend to shoot cast bullets, or if you wish to begin casting bullets for yourself.

Wow man thanks for all the info and your time to set down and figure this out. Thats not really to bad of price.

 

[ect1222t]

Most of my equipment is RCBS. I have an ancient RCBS Jr. single stage press that I bought new in the early 1970's. It has served me well, and I have loaded many thousands of rounds on it. I am kind of anal about my reloading, manually weighing each powder charge on the scale using a powder trickler. All manual, no electronic stuff. WARNING!!! always avoid distractions. Do not try to watch TV, talk on the phone, or even carry on a conversation while you reload. One second's distraction could result in disaster. I don't even listen to the radio. Safety First!!! -Ed.

 

[Rule3]

A easier way would be to get the breech lock kit.(anniversary version)

Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Anniversary Kit - MidwayUSA

Buy a set of dies, a loading block and ditch the Lee scale. It is accurate but a pain to use. The scales mentioned by Whelenshooter are good ones.

With the breech lock kit, if when you want to load a different caliber all you need is to buy another set of dies and 3 or 4 breech lock die bushings. I recomend the 4 die carbide set.

 

[Yurko]

+1,000,000 on what sourdough said!

Start by getting & reading at the very minimum 1 manual. Two or three are really 2 or 3x better.

This is a hobby that is fun & rewarding when practiced with safety in mind.

 

[whelenshooter]

A easier way would be to get the breech lock kit.(anniversary version)

Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Anniversary Kit - MidwayUSA

Buy a set of dies, a loading block and ditch the Lee scale. It is accurate but a pain to use. The scales mentioned by Whelenshooter are good ones.

With the breech lock kit, if when you want to load a different caliber all you need is to buy another set of dies and 3 or 4 breech lock die bushings. I recomend the 4 die carbide set.

If you can find a kit that has what you need and want, more power to you! The press in the kit suggested has more mechanical advantage than the Lee Reloader Press, but the kit doesn't have a caliper, which you really need to be able to measure your cases and overall cartridge lengths. I use mine constantly. The kit does come with the Lee Powder Measure, which will speed up your loading a lot if it works well, but it isn't an absolute necessity for loading good ammunition. I've never used the Lee powder measure, so I don't know how well it works. I have a Redding powder measure, which I dearly love. I used an RCBS Uniflow powder measure for many years and it worked well after you got it set. At that time it didn't come with the micrometer that the Redding measure has, which is why I gave my Uniflow to a friend who wanted a powder measure but didn't have much money. I replaced my Uniflow with the Redding #3BR that comes with the micrometer powder adjustment stem. When I find a good load, I write down the micrometer setting so I can easily reset the measure when I need that load again. Now they have a micrometer powder adjustment that can be bought as an option for the Uniflow, though I think it makes the measure more expensive than the Redding #3BR. If the option had been available when I had my Uniflow, I would have probably bought the Micrometer option rather than replace the measure completely, though I've never regretted buying my Redding measure. My buddy got many years of use out of my old Uniflow before his eyes got too bad from diabetes to be able to shoot.

As for a reloading block... in my opinion they are a TOTAL waste of money, and they set you up for disaster! I always use coffee cans and transfer cases from one can to another as I do something to them. As soon as I put powder in a case, however, I look in it to make sure the powder level looks similar to the last case I charged, then I IMMEDIATELY seat a bullet in the case. If you weigh powder and put your cases in a loading block without seating a bullet in the case, about the time you have a loading block full of charged cases you will knock the darned thing on the floor and ruin several hours of work! I know, because I've done it! If a loading block helps keep you organized, then use one, but DON'T fill the darned thing full of charged cases! For me, coffee cans keep me organized, so that is what I use. You don't have to buy loading blocks either. If you have access to scrap lumber and a drill you can easily make your own.

 

[RoninPhx]

beg to differ

as to not saving money, not true in my case.
I load for probably 20 to 30 different calibers.
As to 9mm it goes like this for me.
Brass was free, I picked it up, no cost.
Bullets are free, I cast them out of lead that is in many cases free.
About .02 to .03 cents a primer
coup of pennies for the powder.
I figure i can run a 50round box of 9mm for about 2.50 to 3.00
do the math on the cost of the reloading euipment and you will see where your break even is.
Lately I have been doing 10mm where I had to buy(shudder) all the componets. It is still coming in less than half of what factory rounds cost.
I could say the same about other calibers.
I would recommend you picking up a copy of the lyman soft cover book on reloading. It goes through all the steps so you can can a basic understanding.
I have a dillon 550 that i use for bulk loading, but just as often resort back to a rcbs rockchucker. In addition to what was already mentioned, press, dies, scale, some type of powder measure, you also need a micrometer, and you can pick up some kind of case tumbler to clean the brass.
Often you can find a lot of this stuff used. I.E., a larger dillon case tumbler for about 50bucks. Lot less than a new one. I am picking up a used press for a kid next week which will set him back 40bucks.

 

[Rule3]

By all means you must have a caliper, a Manual and other assorted odds and ends that do not come with the Lee Kit. With batch loading I find a loading block helpful but to each their own. Use the Perfect powder measure or dippers. Charge each case. Check them all to be sure there are no squibs or over charge. Put a bullet in each and then seat and crimp.
The MTM tray holds all handgun cases and for $8 it's not worth drilling your own. You would have to really try to knock over 9mm's

MTM Universal Reloading Tray 50-Round Plastic Red - MidwayUSA


You can also get the press kit and other stuff a lot cheaper from Natchezss

Lee Breech Lock 50th Anniversary Kit - Natchez Shooters Supplies

 

[whelenshooter]

By all means you must have a caliper, a Manual and other assorted odds and ends that do not come with the Lee Kit. With batch loading I find a loading block helpful but to each their own. Use the Perfect powder measure or dippers. Charge each case. Check them all to be sure there are no squibs or over charge. Put a bullet in each and then seat and crimp.
The MTM tray holds all handgun cases and for $8 it's not worth drilling your own. You would have to really try to knock over 9mm's

MTM Universal Reloading Tray 50-Round Plastic Red - MidwayUSA


You can also get the press kit and other stuff a lot cheaper from Natchezss

Lee Breech Lock 50th Anniversary Kit - Natchez Shooters Supplies

To be honest, I won't drill my own loading blocks either, but if a person has lots of scrap lumber and a drill press, you actually can turn them out pretty fast. I use Natchez Shooters Supply a lot too, they are a great company and their prices are very good! I only used Midway for working up equipment costs because most people are familiar with them. I've had very good luck with Midsouth Shooters Supply too. Their prices are quite good, and they will use the flat rate mailing boxes to ship stuff. That is really important when a person lives in Alaska. I won't do business with a company that insists on using UPS or FedEx unless I have no choice. UPS and FedEx treats Alaska like a third world country. They are horribly expensive.

 

[Rule3]

Most of my online shopping for gun related stuff is through Midway. Even if they are a few bucks more on some things.
They are one of the best as far as customer service and returns. They are extremely nice and will go the extra mile to make customers happy.

I do not place small orders with Natchez, as they have that sneaky little $3 add on charge for shipping and try to up the shipping by adding a catalog that you need to delete from your order. I did buy two presses and dies from them as it was still cheaper.

But for the OP, make a list of all the stuff required/needed write it all down with prices and try to get it all together to save on shipping.Total it all up with shipping and find your best deal. I find it annoying when someplace has everything except on or two items and you need to back order and pay extra shipping, but that's the way it goes sometimes.

 

[whelenshooter]

Most of my online shopping for gun related stuff is through ... I find it annoying when someplace has everything except on or two items and you need to back order and pay extra shipping, but that's the way it goes sometimes.

One of the things I like about dealing with Brownells and Sinclair (who is now owned by Brownells) is that they DON'T charge extra shipping on backordered items! They consider being in a backorder situation as their fault, and they only charge you shipping on the main order. When a backorder ships, they only charge you for the item and they eat the shipping. It has saved me a LOT of money!

 

[billybob44]

If you stay-you will want to upgrade.

Wow man thanks for all the info and your time to set down and figure this out. Thats not really to bad of price.

Just remember-whelen gave you the low ball price on economy tools/equip.
If you decide that hand loading is "Your Cup of Tea", then you WILL want to invest in better quality equipment. RCBS is a good choice on upgrade. Dillon (IMO) is the BEST.

 

[whelenshooter]

billybob44 is spot on with this. If you think you will stay with reloading, you may want to start with fancier equipment from the start. It will cost you more to start with, but it will save you money in the long run to buy once, rather than starting with low end equipment, then replacing it. The low-ball equipment I quoted, however, is perfectly adequate for producing ammunition. Most reloaders will find a use for an extra single stage press, however, so buying a Lee press now, and a Rockchucker later really isn't a waste of money. I have a less expensive RCBS Partner press set up on a Frankford Arsenal Portable Reloading stand that I usually have a Lee decapping die mounted in. In this way I can move the press into the TV room so I can deprime brass prior to cleaning it. Decapping is a mindless step, and it is nice to be able to watch a movie while doing it so I don't get bored to tears.

Like I said in my listing of equipment, I don't really like the Lee scale, so I suggest the Dillon Eliminator scale. It is more expensive than the Lee, but it is about as good of a balance beam type scale a person can get. The top of the line balance beam reloading scale (other than really expensive laboratory scales) is the RCBS 1010, but the only real advantage it has over the Dillon Eliminator scale is the dust cover that comes with the 1010. I actually prefer a balance beam scale over an electronic scale for simply weighing powder. Electronic scales depend upon an electronic strain guage, thus they are fragile and can be easily destroyed simply by dropping a cartridge on them from a bit of a height. In addition, if you aren't careful with your technique you can accidently induce error into an electronic scale that can become cumulative when weighing a lot of charges. I did this by accident once, before I learned the traits of this electronic scale, which caused me to have to pull the bullets on over 100 .308 cartridges and reweigh my charges. I'm very lucky I discovered the error. Electronic scales really come into their own when you are weighing things of unknown weight, and not simply throwing a given powder charge. In other words electronic scales are wonderful for segregating bullets by weight, or segregating cases by weight. Sometimes I will weigh loaded ammunition after I've reloaded it. If any cartridge varies dramatically from the other cartridges, this is a red flag that maybe the powder was left out, or it was double charged. Trying to weigh a lot of cartridges, cases, or bullets with a balance beam scale is a real pain in the butt, but an electronic scale makes it easy. I have used electronic scales when ammunition of different bullet weight by the same manufacturer got mixed. This manufacturer's loads with 150 grain bullets and 180 grain bullets looked exactly alike. By using my electronic scale I was able to easily segregate them again. I have the PACT electronic scale and electronic powder dispenser which talk to each other with an infrared port. This is GREAT for reloading rifle ammunition with stick powder that doesn't go through a powder measure well. All I have to do is put a powder weight into memory. I hit the "dispense" button, and it weighs the charge for me! I wish I had this setup 30 years ago. It would have saved me a LOT of time and headaches! It is expensive, but if you are going to stick wth reloading, it is well worth the investment!