reloading 9mm in 38spl

[4006]

I've been listen to a frend tellin me about reloading 38 spl with 9mm 124 gr rnd
I list but i hezata 9mm is 356 and 38/357 is 357 will a one thos make a big deal he shot steel plate shoots
wood like feedback on this
thanks all

 

[4006]

I've been listen to a frend tellin me about reloading 38 spl with 9mm 124 gr rnd
I list but i hezata 9mm is 356 and 38/357 is 357 will a one thos make a big deal he shot steel plate shoots
wood like feedback on this
thanks all

 

[flash60601]

If you are shooting lead, it won't matter, as the bullet will upset to fill the grooves anyhow.

I and many others have also successfully shot .356 jacketed rounds in the 38/357's, and it seems to make little practical difference. I don't know anybody who has observed accuracy, velocity or pressure to have suffered for it, because the bullet upsets then, also.

Flash

 

[OKFC05]

Whether it works or not depends on several factors. If you stand close enough, you could shoot a smoothbore.

WHY you would want to do it is another question.

For the major sanctioning orgainizations, it is better to use 158 gr +P to make Power Factor in .38 special.
If it is an "outlaw" match not following any particular rules, who cares?

 

[Paul5388]

Actually, Lee Jurras made high velocity light bullets popular with Super Vel, that used either a .356" or .3555" bullet in .38 Special and .357 Mag. I guess that may be a good enough reason to try it.

Of course, the bore riding .357" Golden Saber, that only has a small full groove sized driving band, will probably do as well.

 

[Hoptob]

A friend of mine once shot .40S&W round from a 1911 chambered in .45ACP . Somehow it worked; the bullet exited barrel and did not fell on the floor in front of it.

 

[MrPhil]

I think an open base .355 jacketed bullet would work just fine.

 

[john traveler]

The downside to loading 9mm bullets in .38 Spl cases is that most 9mm bullets are not designed with crimping grooves.

Also, that 0.001" difference in diameter does not seem like much, but it can be enough to prevent you from getting a tight bullet-to-case assembly. You probably have to use a .355" expander plug from a 9mm die set to get good bullet fit. I once loaded a couple hundred 9mm 125 grain RNL bullets in .38 Special brass. Most fired normally, but there was a wide variation in report, recoil, and accuracy. A couple bullets migrated out of the cylinder to jam the revolver, and I also got a couple bullet-in-bore malfunctions. In summary, it might be an interesting experiment, but the hassle (and hazards) of doing this outweigh the advantages (if any).

 

[Ignatz]

Yeah, You can have bullets setting back in your revolver if you don't have enough grip on them. Different combinations of brass and .356 (38 super) bullets work better than others. Once I use up my supply of 38 super 130 gr's for 38 spl cases.....I'm not going to do it anymore. I'm going to use them up at the local steel matches and then go back to normally sized bullets....

 

[shovelwrench]

Hey Ignatz,
I might have some bullets to trade you out of those .38 super 130s. How often you make it through Reading? Say RT12 + 61 intersection.

Shoot me an email.

 

[Wayne M]

Well I'm not certain about accuracy or pressure but you can really make them scream!

 

[flash60601]

Or, you could roll a cannelure in the bullet wherever you wanted, and crimp to suit.

Tools for this have been made before.
http://www.buffaloarms.com/browse.cfm/4,5515.html

http://www.corbins.com/power.htm#pcm and that's $699

http://www.corbins.com/hct-1.htm is a lot less pricey, at $129.00

Scroll half-way down here
http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar47.htm

http://www.ch4d.com/catalog/?p=90
$64.58



Well, that ought to get you started.. For all the more it is, I think I'll go to the shop one afternoon and make one for myself. I'll just grind an old knurling tool to thickness, and a couple of pieces of scrap cold-rolled, a couple rollers and a crank and here we are!

Flash