reloading a 9mm

matthewmia wrote:
I'm thinking of starting to reload my own ammo.

As others have suggested, the first place to start is with a reloading manual. Many people like the Lee manual, others the Lyman manual. I personally prefer the Hornady manual. It doesn't matter which one you get so long as you thoroughly read the "How to Reload" section before you do anything else.

Then, thoroughly read it again. Seriously, you will be amazed what you missed the first time through.

Once you have read the manual twice, then set down and write out a set of reloading procedures based on what you have learned. It helps to make this in the form of a checklist that you can follow, checking off each step as you complete it. This will make sure you don't skip or overlook a step.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 292
To really save money, cast your own bullets. Pretty cool to get the most expensive component for free. But the best reason to reload and cast is because it's fun and rewarding.
 
Many of us got our "feet wet" with a Lee Classic Loader (aka whack-a-mole) $28.99 @ Midway. In 1967 it was $9.99 and got me started.
It's not a fast production method but teaches the basics well, good ammo can be produced and if the reloading bug bites you can move on. I still have mine and use it . If you loose interest in reloading you haven't lost an investment of hundred's of dollars .

A step up , but still reasonable in cost, is the Lee Hand Press Kit and a set of Lee dies. This is a small "C" press that you do not bolt to a bench .
Goes anywhere , operates with your two hands. I reload all my 9mm with one of these , they are "handy". The Hand Press Kit has everything except dies, Lee dies come with a shell holder , this + a loading manual, powder, primers and bullets is the basic's .
To me the disadvantage to the Classic (whack-a-mole) Loader is the noise....you tap everything in and out with a mallet (no press) loading inside the house can get some comments from others..."stop making all that racket" is common. The hand press is quite.

Get a loading block to hold the cases while loading.....I didn't and immediately realized you must have something to keep cases from falling over and rolling all over the place... MTM Universal Reloading Tray, my favorite.

If you try reloading and like it , it's a most fun and interesting hobby. Being the master of your own ammo supply is very satisfying and you can create ammo not available through dealers. Odd, obsolete or special loads (reduced power) are not a problem for the reloader.
I have been doing it for 50 years and it is still fascinating, fun and rewarding.
I don't know about saving money...you will shoot more.
Gary
 
Last edited:
If you are talking components Xtreme Bullets makes very good plated ammo, watch for sales and you can save a little. For lead bullets which are cheaper, Summers Enterprises in Mississippi makes a very good bullet and shipping is that same day usually. Good selection and Donnie is easy to work with. Tell him Joe in Pensacola said hey. When I lived in Texas you could pick up any left brass at the range free, the gun club here in Florida requires each shooter to pick up all their brass so nothing is left to scrounge, fortunately I have buckets of the stuff. Pick up all you can if allowed. Primers I usually wait and buy at gun shows as it has been 10$ per thousand cheaper than locally. Powder the same way. That darn hazmat fee really hurts on primers and powder, buy in bulk when possible. Good luck, watch carefully, read, read, read and have fun.
 
How quickly people forget. During the Great Ammo Drought of '09 the problem was finding ammo at all. Except for Walmart the people who had it were gouging our eyes out. I have a couple boxes of .45ACP WWB under the bed for which I paid $55/100 at Big 5. Never used it because I started reloading.

After the Newtown shooting, ammo was impossible to find. And when you could, it was $18 for 50 Rounds at Walmart, and you had to wait on line at the counter to even hope to get it every morning. I started reloading soon after.

Reloading always saves you money, even in 9MM. $13 per hundred beats $20 of store bought. My equipment has already paid for itself and I am immune to the next drought. One pound of powder will load me nearly 2000 Rounds.
 
I reload 9mm for about 11c per at todays prices. With a good progressive, 400rds an hour min is very easy. So yes, that is substantial savings vs cheap factory, especially if you shoot a lot.
For powder/primers, PowderValley, Grafs, Midsouth, Natchez, Wideners, all good to go. For bullets, Xtreme, Berrys, RMR for plated. Bayou, Missouri for coated. Precision Delta for jacketed. If your local guy has decent prices, go there, save HM & shipping. If not order at least 10 units powder/primers to spread hm. A unit is 1k primers or 1# of powder.
 
Last edited:
Just thought I'd throw one idea onto the plate here - I don't get out to shoot much so I use a Lee hand press for my low-volume set up. One thing that I do (please feel free to laugh!) is take a photo once I've put powder in a batch of primed brass ... sometimes as few as 10 rounds to test a load. Then, I can go back later on - usually the next day - and re-check that I had powder in all the cases ... and no double-loads. My biggest concern is a no-powder case - since I use Power Pistol and a double-charge would be obvious. I dump the photos after I've fired the ammo. It's peace of mind for me since I am easily distracted - and so far, no surprises at the range ... :)

Understand, this does not apply to the high-volume/progressive reloaders out there.
shotgun.gif
 
Last edited:
Just thought I'd throw one idea onto the plate here - I don't get out to shoot much so I use a Lee hand press for my low-volume set up. One thing that I do (please feel free to laugh!) is take a photo once I've put powder in a batch of primed brass ... sometimes as few as 10 rounds to test a load. Then, I can go back later on - usually the next day - and re-check that I had powder in all the cases ... and no double-loads. My biggest concern is a no-powder case - since I use Power Pistol and a double-charge would be obvious. I dump the photos after I've fired the ammo. It's peace of mind for me since I am easily distracted - and so far, no surprises at the range ... :)

Understand, this does not apply to the high-volume/progressive reloaders out there.

I'm not laughing !
Charging cases is the one aspect of this hobby that you can't be too careful it's the part that you have to get right.

I charge a case and check each 3 separate times before I seat the bullet with a hand press.
I haven't moved to progressives because I want to see the powder in the case and then double check again.
Very early in my learning how , I missed charging a case....bullet stuck in the forcing cone tying up the revolver, I was lucky !....happened 49 years ago but I learned...watch the powder !
Gary
 
I'm not laughing !
Charging cases is the one aspect of this hobby that you can't be too careful it's the part that you have to get right.

I charge a case and check each 3 separate times before I seat the bullet with a hand press.
I haven't moved to progressives because I want to see the powder in the case and then double check again.
Very early in my learning how , I missed charging a case....bullet stuck in the forcing cone tying up the revolver, I was lucky !....happened 49 years ago but I learned...watch the powder !
Gary
There have probably been just as many squibs & doubles using loading blobks & ss press as progressives. Its the technique not the tool. I look into every case prior to placing a bullet. To me, safer than loading 50-100 in a block & trying to make sure all cases are charged correctly.
 
I've had several close calls with powder no or double charge with single stage press and none with my progressive. For me it is far easier to make a mistake with a loading block with 25 or more cases on it than the 5 cases on the LNL shell plate.
 
Your most important item is the "Loading Manual", and use several of them from the different powder manufacturers. And, "read" them.
I agree! And maybe the most important of all - Reloading should be taken up as an extension of your interest in shooting and firearms, and not as just a chore to save money. As previously stated you will save (eventually after initial costs are 'absorbed') but the ability to tailor ammo to your own needs or for better performance in your guns is priceless. Also once you get some supplies built up you will always have a ready supply of ammo whenever you want - this is what saved me on the first, and the latest go around of ammo availability which I only noticed when I saw the empty shelves, but was not affected by it. You do however need to understand reloading is a science as well as a hobby and requires dedicated concentration, reading and follow up study and, as stated before, you need to have the patience to perform repetitive tasks while maintaining a serious attention to detail. Reloading is not for everyone and you should find someone who does so you can assist and give it a try before investing in equipment.
 
Getting ready to retire and shooting more 9m then ever. Thinking of adding a Dillon Square deal set up for 9m. Currently buying from Freedomunitions
 
Last edited:
try to purchase your powder and primers in a local gun store for a couple of reaseons:
1) good advice on a specific load instead of digging it out of a reloading manual, BUT the advice of getting a copy of The ABC's of Reloading is good advice, just as a refresher.
2) You will save a lot not having to pay the shipping for powder and primers. The premium is costly. If you live in an area without a gun shop, or big box sporting goods store, you'll have to bite the bullet (sorry) and order.
Never seen anyone in a gunshop that knew poop aout reloading. Stick to good manuals.
If you only buy 1000 primers & a # of powder, local is best, even if the prices are retail. For most of us, ordering online, even paying hm & SH, saves a few $$ & i dont have to drive an hour each way to over pay for powder/primers. 8 units is about the break even point. Keep in mind you pay sales tax in most states buying local.
Example, 8# of WST local, after paying sales tax, cost me $8 more vs buying it from PowderValley & paying HM/SH. Throw in some primers, saving even more. Dont load a lot, buddy system works.
 
Last edited:
Never seen anyone in a gunshop that knew poop about reloading. Stick to good manuals.
Yep - it is rare - Ditto the manual or a KNOWN and TRUSTED friend who is already a seasoned reloader.
Find a local retailer for components. Even if you pay a buck or two more it's better to be able to see and identify what it is you are buying to get started until you learn and recognize components you will use again.
Start slow and follow the manual. Don't think you need to go for 'volume' but concentrate on the procedures and double check yourself along the way. Read (and re-read) the manual several times before you start. You will no doubt find things you overlooked the first time.
Proceed ONE STEP AT A TIME - eventually you will develop a system that works for you for all procedures and when you do try to stick to it and only make changes as they benefit you and/or your accuracy and safety.
Last but not least - a range report on your first reloads!
 
I wonder after 5 years if the OP ever started reloading ;)

I started my 10 day wait (Kalifornistan) on a Ruger SR1911 at a black rifle shop on the 15th of that month. Due to the holidays I couldn't actually pick it up til the 2nd or 3rd of January. The walls had been completely stripped of black rifles. M855 was going for 1$ a round! :eek:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top