Remington 11 ~ Update!

[hittman77]

Have the gun in hand now. Aunt was wrong and this is not the gun she thought was won at a drawing 35-plus years ago.

Someone earlier said serial dates to the mid 20s and the code on the barrel puts it at May 1926. This was apparently her father-in-laws gun and he was born in 1900. He’s been deceased since the 1970s.

There is easily 60 percent of blueing gone. No rust, no rough spots which leads me to think it was heavily used but not abused. The butt stock has the checkered area worn nearly smooth and someone put a coat of glossy varnish on it. The fore end was replaced as it’s in nice condition on both the finish and checkering. The gun was cleaned before it sat for who-knows-how-many years but, it’s dry as the Sahara desert as you can imagine. Lint literally tumbled out when I cycled the action.

Taking it apart as seen in the YT video above, the rings and springs were installed just like it showed. Questions are:

1. If I reconfigure it for light loads, will it still cycle heavy or standard loads okay?

2. Do I even need to get some shells and test fire it to be sure?

3. Given the age of the gun do I WANT to fire heavy loads?

What do you folks think?

 

[Justin T]

The gun needs to be shot to determine if anything needs to be adjusted.

For lubrication you should put a couple of drops on the magazine tube. No more. Too much more and the friction rings won’t be able to make friction and it will kick heavily.

Just start with decent quality 7 1/2 or 8-sized lead target loads like Remington STS or federal.

 

[gregintenn]

Have the gun in hand now. Aunt was wrong and this is not the gun she thought was won at a drawing 35-plus years ago.

Someone earlier said serial dates to the mid 20s and the code on the barrel puts it at May 1926. This was apparently her father-in-laws gun and he was born in 1900. He’s been deceased since the 1970s.

There is easily 60 percent of blueing gone. No rust, no rough spots which leads me to think it was heavily used but not abused. The butt stock has the checkered area worn nearly smooth and someone put a coat of glossy varnish on it. The fore end was replaced as it’s in nice condition on both the finish and checkering. The gun was cleaned before it sat for who-knows-how-many years but, it’s dry as the Sahara desert as you can imagine. Lint literally tumbled out when I cycled the action.

Taking it apart as seen in the YT video above, the rings and springs were installed just like it showed. Questions are:

1. If I reconfigure it for light loads, will it still cycle heavy or standard loads okay?

2. Do I even need to get some shells and test fire it to be sure?

3. Given the age of the gun do I WANT to fire heavy loads?

What do you folks think?

I think you'll get a heavy recoil if you have it set for light loads and shoot heavy loads in it. I would set it for whatever load I was planning on shooting. That's how it was designed. I've never owned a model 11 or A5, but am surprised how many owners of them are unaware of the friction rings and their intended purpose.
Robert J posted a great video to explain this above.

 

[2152hq]

'Heavy Loads' means more shot, not necessarily more pressure. In fact many Magnum loads have less chamber pressure than the lighter shot weight Field Loads.

They will get you more recoil,,just a matter of physics.

The gun operates on the principle of physics and was designed to work, function and not be damaged by the heavier recoil of those larger shot charged loads by the ability to change the friction rings around to adjust for the difference.

Yes the gun will work with the heavier shot load/recoiling loads when the rings are set up for the lighter loads. But the shooter will experience more recoil and the gun will get battered as well as the bbl will not get stalled in recoil as it should. It'll slam harder to the rear than necessary and lock there as it then sends the bolt to the rear with more energy than necessary as well.

I usually set up the rings in these and the A5 for the Heavy loads. Then try it out with whatever shells I have and actually see if it works,,or not.
If it needs to be reset to the Light Load configuration, then do so.
But many times they will function set up as Heavy Loads just fine with 1oz or even 7/8oz OTC ammo. Try it first and see.

Keep the mag tube clean and very lightly lubed as pointed out.

The Mod 11 from the 20's is a fine gun and given care it'll last another century. Shooting heavy loads in it won't hurt it.
I'd avoid the 'Baby 2 3/4" magnums (1 3/8oz shot and sometimes more)' ,,I'd avoid them in anything vintage.
But most any 1 1/8 load @ 1200fps is fine in them.
Lighter loads are certainly easier on the gun and shooter. A 7/8oz load or even lighter will break clays and kill birds out as far as you'd care to shoot given the choke.

 

[hittman77]

Wow lots of really great info here and I appreciate it.

Just noticed the barrel sports the same serial number as the receiver and is marked “FULL” even though I don’t see a “12 gauge” mark on it. This is likely a really good old gun.

I’ll set it for regular loads as it came from the factory.

I’ll make sure its cleaned and lightly oiled and will dig out any 12 gauge rounds I may have laying around. Will give you a range report after I can get it out for a shoot.

 

[Justin T]

These are fun old shotguns that are great shooters. That hump in the back immediately directs your eye down the sight plane and to the target. JMB was a serious shotgunner and knew what was up!

Here’s a kissin cousin to your Model 11.

 

[hittman77]

To show my shotgun ignorance here in all its glory ...... where are the important places for a drop of oil? Been cruising YT videos but didn’t find the right one yet I guess.

 

[Drm50]

The Browning guns are easy to work on. The only thing require are screw drivers correct for screws. Use of Dollar Store screw drivers tear up screws and those old guns that have never been apart can be a real problem then.

 

[Justin T]

To show my shotgun ignorance here in all its glory ...... where are the important places for a drop of oil? Been cruising YT videos but didn’t find the right one yet I guess.

The Brownells videos will get you there. Here’s the one on oiling:

[ame]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uXRdMLEjTCc[/ame]

There are others for disassembly. Be sure to use hollow ground screwdriver tips so you don’t mess up the screw heads.

 

[hittman77]

You guys are great .... thanks.

 

[Jimmy4570]

Definitely give it a good detail cleaning and lube. Keep the mag tube close to bone dry. Just lightly lube it to wipe it clean and you're good. You can google the proper ring setup for your model 11, looking for either standard, light or magnum arrangements depending on which model you have. Unless it says "Light 12" or Light whatever gauge it is, or if it says Magnum you most likely have a standard gun. The differences being spring weight and the number of friction rings and bushings that ride on the magazine tube. Generally, a paper schematic of the proper setup for every gun was lightly lacquered inside the forearm of the shotguns but, as you can imagine, over time they just dry up, get lost or fall apart with age. You've got yourself one of the finest, most reliable and highest quality shotguns ever made. Don't ever let go of it.

 

[JohnRippert]

I keep this around to post for quick reference.

 

[Patrick L]

When you get it, if a good cleaning and proper adjustment of the friction ring setup is not all that is needed, Art's Gun Shop in Missouri is THE place for the Browning A5, and by association the Reminton 11. They will have parts, they will know which Browning parts are interchangeable or adaptable. They are truly the best.

 

[Tubbsy]

Agreed on arts, they do excellent work, lot of decent smiths this side of the river too though.

 

[hittman77]

Hope to get to the range in the morning. I have the bushings changed around for light loads and a local buddy hooked me up with a few round to try.

Will let you know how things go.

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

'

I usually set up the rings in these and the A5 for the Heavy loads. Then try it out with whatever shells I have and actually see if it works,,or not.
If it needs to be reset to the Light Load configuration, then do so.
But many times they will function set up as Heavy Loads just fine with 1oz or even 7/8oz OTC ammo. Try it first and see.

This.
I've got a Miroku A5 lite 12 that I set for heavy and put in a skeet invector choke. That was when I bought it back in 1987. Have not seen the need to change either the rings or the choke since then. Shoot #3 baby magnums for waterfowl and Walmart el cheapo loads for the occasional dove hunt or Bunny round up when they are bush hogging the fields. Works pretty good as a squlrrel gun too. In all honesty, although I have owned and still do own Benellis, SxS and over unders there really isnt' a better shotgun than the A5 or perhaps the early 11-87 Special Field waterfowling gun I bought for my son when they first came out. Both of those guns fit me better than any other

 

[hittman77]

Ran the 11 through its paces today and all is well.
Now back home to clean it up and return it to its owner.

Thanks again for all the help.