Remington HTP 357 mag

boxs

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I just got a box of Remington HTP in 357 mag to shoot in a new
revolver. I've been reloading 9mm (4000 + rounds), I would like to reload 38 spec and 357 mag as well. My question is, the
case on this ammo is not brass-what the heck is it and can I reload it?
Thanks
boxs
 
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If the cases aren't brass that means they are either steel or aluminum. At most you'll only get 2-3 reloads before the cases split and I don't relish the thought of a 357 Magnum at full power splitting. If that happens you'll probably get a flash ring out of the Recoil Shield gap and a rather nasty burn. Bottomline, I wouldn't recommend trying to reload these cases.
 
Perhaps they are just nickel plated? I haven't run into any Remington ammo using aluminum or steel cases (yet!), but I do own a bunch of R-P nickel plated .357 cases...
 
If the ammunition is Remington then the cases are brass! Typically Remington Nickel plates all, or most, of its' .357 Magnum ammunition.

Yes it is reloadable, although there are far better brands than Remington from a durability and case life basis.
 
Some good points there, I hadn't considered nickle plated cases because I avoid nickle cases like the plague. If they are nickle plated they will be very shiny sort of like chrome and are safe to reload. However if you use any vinegar or acetic acid containing cleaning baths to clean the cases the nickle will turn black. Which is why I avoid nickle plated cases.
 
Great info- thanks!
I think you're correct Alk, and Scooter its nickel plated. Its very
shiny and too heavy for aluminum. I also agree there is better
stuff out there but you gots to grab what you can now.
What is the reason for the nickel plating?
 
.....you gots to grab what you can now.

Ain't that the truth!!! Fortunately I have, literally, thousands of cases in many calibers, around 1000 in several other, and no less than 2-300 in some of the really obscure ones I shoot, so this isn't a concern for me.

Why Nickel? This started at least by the 1930s because of corrosion (Verdegris) experienced by police, and anyone else, who carried ammunition in leather cartridge loops. This is what turns brass green. First it is an appearance issue, and second, it is a practical matter. The reaction of the residual chemicals in tanned leather reacts with the Copper in the brass alloy and actually leaches the Copper from the alloy. This leaves the brittle Zinc which can crack when the cartridge is fired. The Nickel plating does not totally prevent the reaction as the Nickel is affected too, but at a much slower rate than the bare brass.

Scooter,

Vinegar blackening Nickel? That's a new one, I will try it and see. So far as 2-3 loads from Nickel cases this is pure BS, unless you are shooting only Remington. I have, as mentioned above, literally thousands of Nickel plated .38 Spl. cases, some I have had since the 1960s. I have no idea how many times some of them have been reloaded, but they have been cleaned enough that many have most of the plating worn off of them. Yes, I have experienced a few dozen neck splits and body splits over the years, but from probably 6,000 cases some probably fired 20+/- times, this is a pretty low failure rate! My recollection too is that the majority were Remington cases too, especially the ones that had body splits. I have had new Remington factory loads split on the first firing, both Nickel plated and plain.
 
For all intents and purposes, reloading nickel plated brass is no different than plain old un-plated brass. Some say nickeled cases will wear out sizing dies. In 30 years of reloading this hasn't happened to me and I started reloading .38 Specials, 50% nickel plated cases in 1969. Some say nickel flakes off. I have not seen one case with flaking nickel and I have reloaded some so many times the plating is worn thin enough for brass to show through, even some hot .357 loaded nickel brass. I can toss 'em in my tumbler with normal brass and they come clean as new, but have never tried any chemical baths for nickel plated cases...
 

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