Remove the lock on my new J-Frame?

Backlighting

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Any one here recommend removing the lock and why or why not?
How would one go about it?
Thanks
 
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Try the search function and you will come up with hours of reading on this subject from both sides. Several of the J Frame models are available from the factory w/o the dreaded lock.
 
Try the search function and you will come up with hours of reading on this subject from both sides. Several of the J Frame models are available from the factory w/o the dreaded lock.
Thanks.
I recently got a model 638 w/ lock.
What I have read are opinions from a couple of yrs ago...so I'm looking for recent comments, especially from those on this Board that have the j-frame Airweights.
I would think that S&W would have addressed the problems reported to them by us buyers, that is, the lock can cause the gun to lock up.
Happy New Yr!
 
I frequently carry my 60-15 J frame with lock.

I haven't disabled the lock and it's given no trouble.

Lots of things can go wrong if you need to use your gun for defense. Having a problem with a lock come up then when it's worked OK for years seems like a low risk.
 
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I have hundreds of rounds through the lightest of S&W revolvers, the 340pd with lock and as an RSO, I have seen hundreds of thousands of rounds fired through S&W revolvers with locks. We have never had one issue with any S&W revolver involving a lock problem. I am not saying it could not happen, but so can a broken rebound, sear, or hammer spring.
Remove it if it makes you feel better, but if it really bothers you, sell the gun and get one with no lock.

I am seriously considering a PO box to collect all those revolvers with locks and S&W Shields with manual safety's from owners who don't want them anymore.
 
I would not remove the lock.

It could cause issues with your warranty as well as having legal implications should you actually have to use the gun in self-defense. Massad Ayoob » Blog Archive » INTERNAL GUN LOCKS

With that being said, I highly recommend avoiding the lock in the first place by buying a model that doesn't have it. Just about all of the enclosed hammer models such as the 642, 442, 640 and 340 M&P are available without the internal lock.
 
I haven't heard anything about the guy who marketed "The Plug" on this site in a while. I have the Scandium J Frame that came with the lock, snatched it out and stuck "The Plug" in its place and never gave it a moment's thought.

Is the "The Plug" guy still with us?
 
Before making decision, you might want to start a thread with a survey asking J frame members with lock models how many have experienced an unintended lockup that can be blamed on actual malfunction of the internal lock. I have shot mine alot and have never had it malfunction.
 
I haven't heard anything about the guy who marketed "The Plug" on this site in a while. I have the Scandium J Frame that came with the lock, snatched it out and stuck "The Plug" in its place and never gave it a moment's thought.

Is the "The Plug" guy still with us?

John Whitt hasn't surfaced in about a year. Last anyone heard, he had some health issue. Hope all is well with him. Anyway, in addition to the sight pushers I've offered for several years, I've been producing my own version of the plug. They are very similar to the ones John made. They can be found in the classifieds in the JMT ad.
Ed Jennings
 
I herd if you put a drop of lock tight on the lock it will keep it from working. I just buy the no lock. No problem.
 
I herd if you put a drop of lock tight on the lock it will keep it from working. I just buy the no lock. No problem.

I won't try to tell anyone to do away with the lock or keep it. That's a personal decision. However, I would strongly suggest that the lock not be disabled. Either remove the lock and plug the hole, or leave it alone. If you remove it, you need to save the parts. Just takes a few minutes to reinstall. If you send the gun back to S&W without the lock, they will install a new one on your nickel. If you sell the gun, the lock or the parts need to go with it. Don't grind the flag off or Loctite it. These are not reversible alterations. Removal is reversible. If you sell or trade the gun, it can be returned to factory configuration pretty easily.
Other than being butt ugly, the lock won't be much of a problem on most guns. If you examine how the lock works, it's easy to see that under recoil there is the potential for the lock to " unintentionally engage". The lighter the gun and the heavier the recoil, the greater the opportunity.
 
I agree with the "leave it alone crowd". I have a 642 with probably 500 rounds through it, including 100 +p self defense rounds....never had an issue. Carry it as my 2d choice since I got a Shield, but carried it a lot in summers when light clothes demand it. It is sweat on, fired and retired without cleaning except 1/month, and never an issue. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
 
Smith & Wesson's position used to be, "There is no problem. The internal lock doesn't fail."

I haven't read or heard them say anything for a couple of years, but they still use the lock and haven't changed it.

Your gun will likely work perfectly, until or unless it doesn't.
 
I'm more worried about the hammer stud breaking off, i think this has happened more than the guns self locking.
 
Studs break from dry fire. Seems like two different smith and Wesson camps on removal of I/L . Those who never had the locks activate and those who have. I never had one malfunction. I won't disable them. But if I did have it happen then I would remove them. Trigger stops went through the same thing. For the same reason.
 
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