What's the consensus magic potion for removing old, dried, hardened oil and grease from parts? I just came into a 1931 K22 Outdoorsman. It's in beautiful shape but needs a good cleaning. I thought I did that but looking closer there is varnish-like sludge in the camber recesses and a few other nooks and crannies. I'm doing ok carefully scraping it out with a dental pick and some magnification but something to soften it up a bit would make things easier. I tried some brake cleaner / degreaser but it did not have much effect. Maybe plain old Hoppes?
Removing dried oil and grease
- Thread starter Fullmetaljacket
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I cleaned up the gummed action in a Model 65-4 with Hoppes9 . If I ever do another will try low odor Mineral Spirits .
It might be dried up wd40. Give it a spritz of the same and see what happens
Kp321
Member
For the worst case gummed up pistols, I use TSP (tri sodium phosphate) in hot, 140+ degrees, water. The solution will not harm the bluing but will remove all deposits and soften any gunk so it can be rinsed off. Let the parts soak in the hot solution for 20 minutes or so, then rinse with more hot water while scrubbing with a soft brush. Dry the parts in the oven or with a blow dryer then oil thoroughly. The parts will be totally oil free when they come out of the rinse and will flash rust if not oiled.
By the way, TSP is sold in the paint department for brush cleaning.
By the way, TSP is sold in the paint department for brush cleaning.
Chem-tool, Chem-Dip or whatever they are calling it this week... sold in gallon pails at the auto parts store to immerse your nasty carburetors and such in.
Of course you will remove your stocks before giving it a nice long soak.
Of course you will remove your stocks before giving it a nice long soak.
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The first thing I do is fully disassemble Revolver, pistol or whatever gun I am cleaning. I then give it a soak in Hopes 9 for an hour or so - that usually helps greatly with removal of the dried grease and oil. Then I take the parts out of the Hoppes one by one and scrub then with a Nylon toothbrush. Bare steel parts can be scrubbed with a Bronze "toothbrush" if needed. Parts that don't normally come apart such as a trigger group in a Shotgun, get sprayed with Birchwood Casey Gunscubber - immediately followed with an oiling to protect the metal as the Scrubber removes all oil and it could rust rapidly. The rough cleaning gets done outdoors - the Gunscrubber goes everywhere!
Sometimes I use small tools like Nylon Dental Picks, wooden Chop Sticks sharpened to a point in a pencil sharpener to assist in removing stubborn deposits but I avoid using metal tools that can scratch. A Chop Stick brought to a point in a pencil sharpener is an amazing tool! I have them in tool boxes and my gun Range box as well.
After a good cleaning and inspection, I replace any worn part if necessary and do a light lubrication and re-assemble.
NOTE (warning): The firearms I clean are removed from their wooden stocks, fore ends, have grips removed and since almost all my guns are older models, Hoppes and Gun Scrubber do not negatively affect anything. Check your individual finishes prior to using harsh cleaning agents. Many modern finishes and materials to not play well with old fashioned cleaning chemicals.
Sometimes I use small tools like Nylon Dental Picks, wooden Chop Sticks sharpened to a point in a pencil sharpener to assist in removing stubborn deposits but I avoid using metal tools that can scratch. A Chop Stick brought to a point in a pencil sharpener is an amazing tool! I have them in tool boxes and my gun Range box as well.
After a good cleaning and inspection, I replace any worn part if necessary and do a light lubrication and re-assemble.
NOTE (warning): The firearms I clean are removed from their wooden stocks, fore ends, have grips removed and since almost all my guns are older models, Hoppes and Gun Scrubber do not negatively affect anything. Check your individual finishes prior to using harsh cleaning agents. Many modern finishes and materials to not play well with old fashioned cleaning chemicals.
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Ed's Red is a long standing, sure fire solvent for just that type of cleanup. let the gun or parts sit in it for overnight and you won't believe how it cleans up with a old tooth brush on most areas.
You can buy it in small jars from places like Brownells or you can Google up a formula on line. I store my home made in a 3 gallon pail and have used this batch for about 15 years now.
I'm into WWII pistols and some of those are pretty dirty, but always clean up nice in Ed's Red. Won't hurt bluing but I only leave nickeled guns in it for an hour or so.
You can buy it in small jars from places like Brownells or you can Google up a formula on line. I store my home made in a 3 gallon pail and have used this batch for about 15 years now.
I'm into WWII pistols and some of those are pretty dirty, but always clean up nice in Ed's Red. Won't hurt bluing but I only leave nickeled guns in it for an hour or so.
fleabus101
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
I give Kroil the nod like a previous poster
suggested..Kroil does great freeing up screws
sludge gunk and getting parts freed up..
Never had it mess up or discolor my blued
Smiths..
suggested..Kroil does great freeing up screws
sludge gunk and getting parts freed up..
Never had it mess up or discolor my blued
Smiths..
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Kroil after el cheap o wally world carb. cleaner. Remove grips of course and do not spray on white rear sights. Soft brass " tooth brush" with tooth picks.
"i learned the hard way" the military had a grease to store rifles, (forgot its name ) AND a formula to remove it ( 50 % gasoline and diesel ). so; before i went off to war, i coated my springfield in AXLE GREASE. it took years to clean that rifle.
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No " plastic guns" here, know about plastic and what will dissolve most.
Non chlorinated brake cleaner( remove grips), compressed air then relubricate.If you pull the side plate, take the tension off the strain screw for the main spring
gwpercle
Member
The most effective ... Acetone !
An old Oral-B Toothbrush will not be melted by Acetone and can be used to scrub away varnish ... soaking helps with the process ...
Do Not use on plastic parts or guns . Blued steel is not harmed .
Gary
An old Oral-B Toothbrush will not be melted by Acetone and can be used to scrub away varnish ... soaking helps with the process ...
Do Not use on plastic parts or guns . Blued steel is not harmed .
Gary
I second the acetone, I buy it by the gallon and a toothbrush
I also have an ultra sonic machine and a solution I use for really bad guns.
I also have an ultra sonic machine and a solution I use for really bad guns.
soak, and clean............
yes , many years ago, LOTS of military guns were coated in "cosmoline" for long term storage, as noted above gasoline and diesel worked but we found kerosene safer to use...most all of it works,,,just do not get aggressive with metal brushes, or steel wool.....let soak, brass brushes, and bronze wool are your friend....then use an air hose, and then whatever oil YOU like to use, again blow off any "excess"
yes , many years ago, LOTS of military guns were coated in "cosmoline" for long term storage, as noted above gasoline and diesel worked but we found kerosene safer to use...most all of it works,,,just do not get aggressive with metal brushes, or steel wool.....let soak, brass brushes, and bronze wool are your friend....then use an air hose, and then whatever oil YOU like to use, again blow off any "excess"
