Removing lead from top strap of M17-1 and M18

GW30

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I recently acquired a used 4 screw M17-1 and 4 screw M18 no dash and have a question about cleaning lead that is built up on the top strap of the M17-1 (see picture).

The lead buildup has been there awhile and I've so far avoided any scraping - just applied solvents. There is also a bit of lead on the forcing cone as well, but that should be easy to remove.

Both guns have holster wear, but despite their age have good lockup, b/c gaps, and smooth actions. So I look forward to enjoying them.

Appreciate any suggestions you have for cleaning the lead from the top strap.
 

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Thanks for the prompt replies. I'll give it a try.
 
I have used a piece of sharpened sheet brass or thick shim stock with good results.
You will never get it all, but you can keep it under control.
 
A good Hoppes solvent soaking and I'd start with a Bamboo Chop Stick sharpened in both a chisel point and in a pencil sharpener for a very fine point. Many times that's all you need. I believe in starting out with the least aggressive method an d adjust up as necessary. If Bamboo slips, no harm will be done however Bamboo is a pretty hard wood.
 
Wish I had that problem; needing to clean lead off a 17-1. That's the only dash number (of the older ones) that I don't have. Not easy to find where I shop. Nice, enjoy them both.

Jeff
SWCA #1457
 
Thanks for the additional suggestions. Seems like brass picks may be the easiest to control, so I've ordered a set.

Also, interesting use of cold blue. I'd want a test mule before trusting myself....

Jeff, thanks for your comment. I felt lucky to get them.

Regards,
Gary
 
Thanks for the additional suggestions. Seems like brass picks may be the easiest to control, so I've ordered a set.

Also, interesting use of cold blue. I'd want a test mule before trusting myself....

Jeff, thanks for your comment. I felt lucky to get them.

Regards,
Gary

Sorry, I'm not available for cold blue testing. :D My "lead" is in an area that no one sees.
 
A cutting torch will remove it quickly, but I usually just use my scraper made from a brass case that is flattened and sharpened to a one sided bevel. :D
Tip- use a Q-tip to apply some RIG around the barrel stub before shooting. Clean it off when you clean the gun and reapply. ;)
 
The use of a solvent first, and giving it enough "dwell time" to work will help. People always seem to be in too much of a hurry and thus rely on somewhat harsh methods sometimes. M-Pro 7 actually works well if you give it some time. After letting the solvent work I use one of those bronze toothbrushes and the lead comes right off.

But then the bronze leaves color on the top strap and surrounding areas. So, another bottle of solvent comes out, this time one of the copper solvents. A bit applied to a cotton swab will remove the bronze marks. And the top strap and barrel face will then be spotless.
 
On my revolvers as long as the build up is not interfering with function I just ignore it. I have always been against white glove inspection clean- it serves no purpose. Clean enough to function is clean enough.
I use a tooth brush to remove enough to keep the gun running. I shoot them so much getting them spotless every time would be a constant fight
 
I've been shooting 17's, 18's, 34's, etc for 60 years and the above, Hoppe's and a scraper has worked well. My scraper was a .222 case flattened and a bevel on one side with my belt sander and 500 grit.
 
Lyman made a lead away cloth. It is fairly thick but might fit between the bbl forcing cone and topstrap.
 
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