The best method of removing nickel plating is to have a plater strip it.
This is done by reversing the plating process so the plating is removed instead of being deposited.
The problem with chemical stripping is that it has to be a perfect job.
Otherwise, when a chemical finish like bluing is applied any remaining plating left on hidden areas will cause the metal to have what looks like white freckles.
The Brownell's stripper is reported to work well but it's expensive.
Note that nickel strippers may not remove any copper or iron undercoat, and that may require another process. This is why the best way is to have a professional plater strip the nickel.
Most of the top professional gun platers offer special prices to strip parts.
People to talk to are APW/Cogan and Ford's. They might do it cheaper then you can buy the stripper chemical.
Blue removal depends on where you're going with it.
If the barrel is to be reblued, the processor will polish it off as part of the prep phase. In that case, just let the processor do it.
If you're doing it yourself, a blue remover works well, BUT, almost all chemical blue removers will etch the surface, requiring more polishing to remove the roughness caused by the stripper.
Some people have used white vinegar to strip bluing.
Be wary of using harsh chemicals like Naval Jelly. These etch metal badly and require extensive polishing to remove the roughness.
Brownell's sell their own concentrated blue removers that are mixed with pure water...
BROWNELLS RUST and BLUE REMOVER | Brownells
BROWNELLS STEEL WHITE | Brownells
An old product is Birchwood-Casey's Blue and Rust Remover......
BIRCHWOOD CASEY BLUE & RUST REMOVER | Brownells
NOTE: With these chemical blue removers PLUG THE BORE. These will etch the bore and can ruin the barrel.