Removing The S&W Internal Lock (Video)

[Retired in 2001]

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[pirate]

Its a very easy fix with your instructions. Your video is outstanding. Thanks for taking the time to product such a high quality and informative video.

 

[Major Pain]

Thanks Gary for a great video.--MP

 

[n2299]

Excellent video. Thank you for sharing it!!

 

[Mickstix]

Bump back to page 1!! Valuable threads such as this need to be "pinned".. (Mods: hint, hint)

 

[hillmonkey]

Any chance you could make another video showing how to remove the lock from a single/double action J frame. I opened up my 649, and there were a lot more parts then were in yours. I seriously want to remove this thing from my carry revolver.

 

[myanof]

Originally posted by hillmonkey:
Any chance you could make another video showing how to remove the lock from a single/double action J frame. I opened up my 649, and there were a lot more parts then were in yours. I seriously want to remove this thing from my carry revolver.

This is the easiest way to remove your lock. It worked great on my 340PD. All parts remain in place. You can still turn the key, but nothing happens.

 

[Gary C]

Originally posted by hillmonkey:
Any chance you could make another video showing how to remove the lock from a single/double action J frame.......

I don't own a single/double action revolver so a
video is not possible. But, The DVD "Trigger Job" by Jerry Miculek probably contains the
information you are looking for. It's an excellent reference to have in your library.

 

[big50_1]

Looking at the mechanics of the lock, if you remove the "flag" part that has the locking lug, what keeps the other three pieces from flopping into the innerds of the gun. I see the blue-coated spring and the Y-"yoke thing" are pressing on the "football" shaped piece that rotates the "flag" up and down and so there is tension there when the "flag w/locking lug" part is installed BUT...it looks like a slight lip (and maybe the hammer?) is preventing the parts from springing into the interior of the gun. Make sense?

With all the parts installed, there is only one small spring at the bottom of the "flag" that keeps the "flag" (with its locking lug) down. That and the fact that the "football" shaped piece is rotated all the way counter-clockwise (and at rest) when looking at the parts from inside. I'm wondering what keeps the parts in place with no "flag". Maybe the interlocking design... When I say "keeps the parts in place", I mean against the forces of recoil.

It all looks kinda' fragile but I'm not a firearms designer.

I am really not trying to stir up a hornets nest here just trying to understand. From what I see the best reliability from a gun with the lock looks like you have to remove all the parts with keeping all the parts in place with the lug ground off as a second, lesser option. What I don't know is if the "flag" keeps the other parts in place or not (prevents them from popping out of place)?

 

[Roger Norris]

Outstanding video. Thanks.

 

[photoman]

Thanks for the great video Gary! I just de-locked my daily 637. I did decide to remove all of the parts. Sure makes for an ugly gun, but this is a daily duty tool that I picked up used, for a song, so I'm not too concerned about looks.

Someone asked about the extra parts for a full hammer gun (like the 637) and the only difference is the hammer block. That's the L shaped bar with the loop on the bottom. It's the top-most part when you open the gun. The hammer block lifts out very easy. I did have a bit of difficulty replacing the sideplate as there was some interference with the hammer block. I ended up installing the sideplate with the hammer at full cock and the sideplate dropped right on. Not sure if that's the correct procedure or not, but it worked.

 

[jaaeatax]

Great Video

I would appreciate your feedback on my recent video.

I finally got up the nerve to open up my snubby and remove the internal lock. I have since done the same operation to my other two snubbies.

Here is my video and how I did the operation:

S&W Internal Lock Removal - YouTube


Thanks for any feedback

Gary C

I want to thank everyone for the encouraging remarks. I’ll use this edit to respond to some of your comments.

The reason I did the video was because throughout the forum I read comments like- “just remove the lock if you don’t like it…”, or “grind the nub off of the lock.” My question was always, “OK – HOW?” So when I finally got up enough courage to give it a try, and it worked, I figured someone could benefit from my experience. Thus, a video was born.

Yup, I goofed. I should have videoed a visual check for an empty gun before starting. I realized this error after the video was completed and by then I just said “Ah Hell”, or words to that effect, and I let it slide.

In the latter part of the video you can see what appears to be cartridges in the cylinder. In one of my editing sessions this clip found it’s way into the video. Yes, they are my home made snap caps. I reload so I have decapped some spent cartridges and reseated a bullet in each case. I did this for 35 empty cases and I use them in my speed loaders to practice my reloading. I like to enter the local “Action Pistol” competition.

I didn’t remove all of the lock mechanism for a couple reasons. First, I didn’t want a gaping hole in the gun for dirt and lint to enter. I had also read on the forum that the “key” portion of the lock did not present a problem for possible jamming of the gun. Second, I did try removing the “key” section of the lock just to see how it worked. I struggled with it for a while and decided that if it was going to present that much trouble in removing it, that it was probably going to stay put while shooting the gun. I never was able to get the “key” portion of the lock out of the revolver. I was afraid that if I did, I’d never get it back into the gun.

I have done the lock modification to three S&W revolvers, the stainless steel 640 in the video, an Airweight 642-2, and an M&P 340. I have not experienced any problems.

The three lock flags now sit in a little baggie. If I ever want to sell one of the snubbies, fat chance, I can reinstall the flags and return the gun to it’s original lockable condition.

I have three new S&W external hammer guns. Two 686plus one in two and a half inch and one in a four inch. I also have a model 66-8. I have one 642 all of them have a lock. If I remove the flag from the guns with the external hammer that would leave a gap between the hammer and frame. Do you know if that would be a problem?? Thank you!! I forgot to mention I have a model 640 with the lock as well. I will use your great video as soon as I work up the courage to try it... Thank you

 

[Hondo44]

Gary,

Welcome to the forum.

That was a truly well done video! A refreshing change from the majority of videos with mumbled instructions, some "oops" comments and poor camera work. I could do w/o the lounge lizard background music, however.

The twisty tie is clever but superfluous IMO. Also, personally I would never tap the sideplate back in place. Instead, I recommend a light coating of lubricant all around the edge, and use the screws to naturally pull the plate down and fully seat it.

I don't think you goofed at all by excluding a "visual check". I for one am darned tired of the politically correct "big brother" instructions that gun conversations are riddled with these days. For one thing, they will not help any fool lacking that much common sense!

Again, well done!

 

[ironfeather]

excellent video and I am going to take care of mine tonight. I suspect that if and when there is an individual who is injured or killed because his gun locked up that the resulting multimillion dollar lawsuit will lead to the removal of these locks once and for all.