Ren Wax?
- Thread starter O2Guy
- Start date
Ive used paste wax and ren wax.The ren wax seems to hold up better.
JohnK
US Veteran
It's PH neutral, contains no abrasives, and is used by most museums, to protect heirlooms made from paper, wood, or metal.
It will turn a 95% condition blued handgun, into a 98% plus, in a minute or two.
Prevents fingerprints on guns, with the ensuing salty stuff rusting them.
Water won't make it dissolve, or run off, like lubricants.
Can you tell, I LIKE it.
If it moves, wax it. If it doesn't, wax it anyway.
It will turn a 95% condition blued handgun, into a 98% plus, in a minute or two.
Prevents fingerprints on guns, with the ensuing salty stuff rusting them.
Water won't make it dissolve, or run off, like lubricants.
Can you tell, I LIKE it.
If it moves, wax it. If it doesn't, wax it anyway.
diamonback68
US Veteran
One that works pretty good but not as good as Ren wax is Johnson's Paste Wax. Works very good on grips and holsters too. Renaissance is still the ultimate wax though.
shaggist
US Veteran
For me, the difference is cost. Ren Wax is $16.00 + $1.50 shipping for 2 1/4 oz on Ebay. Johnson's Paste Wax is $5.98 + tax for 16 oz (1 lb) at Home Depot. I have a tin of JPW that I have had for over 20 years and it is still 1/2 full. I don't mind spending a little extra time with my guns to wax them more often. It keeps them from crying from loneliness in the gun safe, if I handle them more frequently.
I use both Johnsons and Ren and see little difference in performance. The Ren wax is more portable and smells better. Ren does cost a little more but the small can will last me several years.
Moonman
Member
Must be a reason THE BIG DOGS run with REN-WAX.
It's the BEES KNEES.
It's the BEES KNEES.
moe smith
Member
Interesting. I've never waxed metal parts on any of my guns. Still not sure I understand why one would with the various preservatives available. On the other hand I have waxed stocks. I had an old 1918 Enfield that I refurbished. Took a block of Walnut (I think walnut...it's been awhile) and made the stock from scratch. Cut,formed, chiseled and sanded and sanded and sanded and, well you get the idea. Then, over a period of a few months, I'd take that stock and a block of natural beeswax and rub that in every time I sat on the couch watching TV. It was alot of work but man, I don't think I've ever seen a better finish on a rifle stock...ever. And the thing would bead water off like rain-x on a windshield.
Sadly. after floating and bedding the barrel, I took it in for a professional bluing job. It was then we discovered a hairline longtitudinal crack in the barrel. I was so disgusted I left the rifle right there on the LGS counter and told them, "It's yours, maybe you can use some of the parts". If I ever do another stock though, it'll be hand rubbed with beeswax.
NOTE: I noticed in another thread someone was refinishing a stock and used steel wool. For what it's worth, and god knows I've never been paid for advice, I never use steel wool on wood. I use Bronze wool. The reason is minute pieces of steel wool will embed itself in the wood and rust. Bronze may embed itself also but it won't rust. Over time you'll begin to see little red specks in wood taken down with steel wool.
Ok I'm done now.
Sadly. after floating and bedding the barrel, I took it in for a professional bluing job. It was then we discovered a hairline longtitudinal crack in the barrel. I was so disgusted I left the rifle right there on the LGS counter and told them, "It's yours, maybe you can use some of the parts". If I ever do another stock though, it'll be hand rubbed with beeswax.
NOTE: I noticed in another thread someone was refinishing a stock and used steel wool. For what it's worth, and god knows I've never been paid for advice, I never use steel wool on wood. I use Bronze wool. The reason is minute pieces of steel wool will embed itself in the wood and rust. Bronze may embed itself also but it won't rust. Over time you'll begin to see little red specks in wood taken down with steel wool.
Ok I'm done now.
tlay
US Veteran
I look at it like this, on your car you use wax on the outside and oil on the inside. Why not do the same for your guns? For years I was in the same boat as everyone, clean your gun and spray oil or silicone spray on the outside. It might protect them but looks like ****. Wax and especially Ren wax will protect better than oil and look a whole lot better.
I have found the best way to put the wax on is with your finger. Your fingers temperature melts the wax and you don't waste as much as using a cloth. Just try to buff it off before it turns hazy.
I have found the best way to put the wax on is with your finger. Your fingers temperature melts the wax and you don't waste as much as using a cloth. Just try to buff it off before it turns hazy.
wildenout
Member
Been a huge fan of Ren Wax since hearing about it here on the forum. It's now on anything metal that may get stored for a decent amount of time, and it goes monthly on my edc 686. I think it feels a bit funny to handle immediately after it's on, but other than that it's amazing.
Cpo1944
Member
I use Ren wax, but Kiwi shoe polish in neutral color works just as well, and is much cheaper and available everywhere.
SweetMK
Member
OK, Ren Wax (or any other wax for that matter) is good, I get the beauty part,
BUT,
what happens to the wax when you shoot 50 hot rounds through a Model 29?
Does the wax melt?
I must have a safe queen somewhere I may try it on, but, it seems like even a Model 17 shooter would get hot enough to melt the wax.
BUT,
what happens to the wax when you shoot 50 hot rounds through a Model 29?
Does the wax melt?
I must have a safe queen somewhere I may try it on, but, it seems like even a Model 17 shooter would get hot enough to melt the wax.
Never had any sign of the wax changing at all when I heat up a barrel. I used to use Calgonite Insulator wax, but when I got to this forum I tried and started with Ren Wax. My daughter was working at the Smithsonian at the time...she said "Oh yeah, that stuff, we have bigger cans of it."
I shoot my waxy guns regularly.The crud wipes right off and the wax is still there.
diamonback68
US Veteran
Does the wax melt?
In a word NO! It leave a very hard microscopic coating that can't melt.
tlay
US Veteran
If wax melting was true you would see puddles of it running off our cars. As said it leaves a microscopic coating that seals the metal.
As said it leaves a microscopic coating that seals the metal.Similar threads
