REN wax
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Florida J Frame
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Just start with a clean gun. No special prep.
I use a little acetone on a rag to get any oil off first and then wax it
Yep,the oil will dissolve the wax.
Also, just use a tiny bit on your finger to apply a very thin coat. No need for an application rag. Let dry for a couple minutes and buff it out with a clean rag (I use the microfiber Flitz rags like pictured). Great for wood grips to!
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Murphy's Law
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Also great for all your pistols/revolvers along with holsters. Best kept secret and a little goes a long ways.
EricR
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I'm the only person I've heard mention this, so for what it's worth...
Use the product in a well ventilated area. Use a cloth for application, as opposed to bare fingers. I'm only sharing this info as the stuff has bothered me. I still use it but only in a well ventilated area and sometimes with a respirator. Now, maybe I'm the only one that's had issues with this product but I'm sharing for what it's worth.
And yes, it's a great product.
Use the product in a well ventilated area. Use a cloth for application, as opposed to bare fingers. I'm only sharing this info as the stuff has bothered me. I still use it but only in a well ventilated area and sometimes with a respirator. Now, maybe I'm the only one that's had issues with this product but I'm sharing for what it's worth.
And yes, it's a great product.
GoDevil Man
Member
Also, just use a tiny bit on your finger to apply a very thin coat. No need for an application rag. Let dry for a couple minutes and buff it out with a clean rag (I use the microfiber Flitz rags like pictured). Great for wood grips to!
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How about an eyeglass cleaning cloth?
Thread spoiler alert ... Barry is gonna wax his new 27!
Jack Flash
Member
I made the mistake of putting Ren Wax on way too thick then letting it dry. No real harm, it just took a long time to get it to quit smearing around and buff properly. It sure looked great when finished.
Prior to application, the finish looked faded and dry, even with oil on it. Afterwards, the finish is a rich deep dark shiny blue. It even made scratches and other imperfections less noticeable. They are still there of course, but greatly toned down. I would definitely Ren Wax any blued gun I wanted to sell.
Just put on a thin coat, let it dry, then buff. If that isn't enough, repeat.
Prior to application, the finish looked faded and dry, even with oil on it. Afterwards, the finish is a rich deep dark shiny blue. It even made scratches and other imperfections less noticeable. They are still there of course, but greatly toned down. I would definitely Ren Wax any blued gun I wanted to sell.
Just put on a thin coat, let it dry, then buff. If that isn't enough, repeat.
MetalMan
Member
Another "secret" is to apply a light coat of RenWax to the underside of the grips (wood or rubber) and to the grip frame. Then, DO NOT wipe off.
Simply re-attach the grips.
This will help to prevent moisture from building up under the grips and attacking the metal of the grip frame.
Simply re-attach the grips.
This will help to prevent moisture from building up under the grips and attacking the metal of the grip frame.
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spdguns
Member
I actually love the smell of Renwax.
hardcase60
Member
I use a cotton cleaning patch for application. So long as it's clean I put the patch back into the jar. No need to waste the patch or the wax. LOL
hardcase60
hardcase60
Best to clean off ALL oil prior to photos. Otherwise you get streakies! Denatured alcohol works well
I won't carry or store any revolver without doing this first. So far no rust, corrosion, pitting, etc under the grips on any of my revolvers regardless of finish. I think this is a great tip!
loeman
Member
OK, so everyone's giving up their secrets so here's mine. Maybe it's been posted here before, but I didn't see it.
I use either Ren Wax or Johnson's Paste Wax on all my vintage two-piece and one piece cardboard boxes. One thin coat is all that is needed with a light buffing with a clean cotton rag or even a shoe brush. You will be very happy with the results. I store my guns in the boxes and the ones that get stacked just GLIDE off of each other. Don't rub the wax into the cardboard with any force or you will begin to remove some of the color.
I use either Ren Wax or Johnson's Paste Wax on all my vintage two-piece and one piece cardboard boxes. One thin coat is all that is needed with a light buffing with a clean cotton rag or even a shoe brush. You will be very happy with the results. I store my guns in the boxes and the ones that get stacked just GLIDE off of each other. Don't rub the wax into the cardboard with any force or you will begin to remove some of the color.
oldiesradio1560
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I have a stainless new 640-1 Pro Series. One of the first things I did was got a small can of Rem Wax. I appy the wax with q-tips so I get a light coat and I wax both the gun and the rubber grips after Every range trip. Love the look and protection and No finger prints.
Jeppo
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How 'bout Ren Wax on black finishes like the 442?
EricR
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Worked fine for me. But I eventually reverted back to my silicone cloth for my 442 EDC.
Wipe off excess oil with a clean cloth but do not make the mistake of stripping all oil with a solvent. The oil gets into tiny places like screw slots, around sites, etc where the wax will not go.
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22 post replies and no one has mentioned Renaissance Pre-Lim before using the Wax? 
22 post replies and no one has mentioned Renaissance Pre-Lim before using the Wax?
I first use pre lim, just a very thin coat, well rubbed. Let it dry for a couple of minutes. Then apply Renaisance wax.
I also use a 3 step process
1.- Flitz
2.- Pre lim
3.- Renainsance wax.
In blued guns that been storaged for a long period of time or even in new blued guns, Flitz helps to take out all the red oxide on the bluing. Pre lim and Ren wax turn out the beautiful bluing.
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RGVshooter
Member
24 posts later and no one mentioned where you can find the stuff. I've looked all over the place locally and no one carries it here Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot, O'Riley's, AutoZone. Only place I haven't looked was PeP Boys or TruValue. Where do you guys find the stuff? Only place I've seen Renaissance wax was online Amazon or Midwayusa. Thanks in advance!
loeman
Member
I think you've answered your own question. I get mine on Amazon and like you, I've never seen it in any of the major stores in my area. Although I've never checked places like Hobby Lobby or Arts and Crafts stores which might be a consideration.
edit: And go ahead and buy the large size. Trust me, you will find many uses for this great product. You might even want to Ren Wax your '59 Caddy!
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hobby-gunsmith
US Veteran
Ren wax
Try Brownell's for purchase. They carry Ren Wax
Nick
Try Brownell's for purchase. They carry Ren Wax
Nick
MetalMan
Member
+1 for the large jar from Amazon...
Most guns I buy are in slightly "finished challenged" condition, so the first thing I do is give them a light buffing with Flitz. I wouldn't do that with a gun that already had a nice finish, but the ones I buy, it won't hurt. When the metal is smooth, I'll apply a couple or three coats of Ren Wax. I just use my finger, and buff it off with an clean soft cloth.
It always makes a big difference.
Before
After
It always makes a big difference.
Before
After
Jack Flash
Member
I second (3rd, 4th, whatever) the idea of liberally applying RW to the grip frame and the underside of the stocks. Especially do this if you use Pachs / Hogues.
Some say that Johnson's Paste Wax (Car Wax?) is just as good and costs less. I will have to get some and try it on a beater. The thing is, I bought a can of RW and at the rate I'm using it, it should last 5 to 10 years. So car wax may be cheaper, but if you figure cost per application, you aren't going to wind up in the poor house either way.
Nobody has mentioned cost yet. To the best of my memory, I got mine from Brownell's years ago for about $25. I see you can order it from WalMart online for about $18 or Amazon for about $21.
Some say that Johnson's Paste Wax (Car Wax?) is just as good and costs less. I will have to get some and try it on a beater. The thing is, I bought a can of RW and at the rate I'm using it, it should last 5 to 10 years. So car wax may be cheaper, but if you figure cost per application, you aren't going to wind up in the poor house either way.
Nobody has mentioned cost yet. To the best of my memory, I got mine from Brownell's years ago for about $25. I see you can order it from WalMart online for about $18 or Amazon for about $21.
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