Wax On - Wax Off

[StrawHat]

The Flitz I have is in a tube, is a blue cream,
and has very fine polishing properties.

Notice it says for metal cleaning and fiberglass polishing? Not a wax.

Kevin

 

[Imissedagain]

I believe they make a couple different products. One is a wax, one is a polish.

That's why I posted the pic.
The tube might be older than some forum members.
It's kept sealed in a plastic bag.

Not sure when they started making the wax,
as I never needed it.

The Ren Wax company makes a product called, Pre-Lim.
It's a Metal Burnisher and works great on our fishing knives
and other tools. Ren Wax is used, as necessary, after Pre-Lim.
Have not tried the Pre-Lim on stainless guns, that get scratched
in the wood shop, yet.
A gun scratcher, not a scratch golfer.

Tops of cans are taped after use.

 

[CajunBass]

I started off waxing guns many years ago when I would spray Pledge furniture polish on the stocks of my shotguns. There would be overspray, and I'd wipe that off the metal. It looked pretty good and didn't seem to hurt anything. Eventually I just sprayed it on a rag, and wiped the whole gun down, then buffed it off, and never had to worry about rust. They didn't even show fingerprints. I also used it on my fishing tackle.

Then I discovered Ren Wax, and that's all I've used on the exterior of my guns for 30 or more years I suppose. I'll give a new to me gun a light buff down with Flitz, then come back with Ren Wax. I'll rewax after each range session, and sometimes just as an excuse to fondle the gun. I've got a couple of cans of Ren Wax here. They'll probably last me the rest of my life, and then whoever cleans up the mess can have what's left.

 

[Laketime]

Renwax is not that expensive and is much superior to johnson’s , I use both but my shooters and beaters get the Johnsons. My collection gets the Renwax. Most fans of johnson’s never bothered to try Renwax. The Musuems use Renwax enough said. We are only talking $29 for a can that will last years.

 

[gwpercle]

It was suggested that I wax my 17-4.

I have read here in the past that most people use Renaissance Wax. Flitz also makes a gun wax.

Never done it before. Which is better? A little goes a long way?

Thanks.

A Little goes a Long Way ...Renaissance Wax

This is one of those times when less is better than more .

Two thin coats of wax is better than one heavy coat of wax...

be sure and rub the wax into the pores of the metal ... by hand with a soft colth pad .
get the wax down into the metal and let it dry before buffing to nice shine ... and do not use machines ... wax on - wax off By Hand ...
Carefully ... No Machine's !
Gary

 

[Imissedagain]

Thin is important.

Pledge is my goto for fretboards.
Especially Ebony and Rosewood.
Sweet Almond Oil on Grenadilla instruments.

 

[dave1918a2]

I used Flitz years ago on a pre 29. Changed the color of the blue. Now I use Ren Wax on blued and stainless handguns and on rifle actions and barrels. I use JPW on rifle stocks. Sorry, only one plastic stock. I like blue steel and wood. I leave the Flitz where it belongs, hanging up at the gun store.

 

[SnidelyWhiplash]

As already said...polishes have abrasives. They could contain fine abrasives up to coarse abrasives depending on the intended item being polished and its condition.

Waxes are a sacrificial barrier applied to a gun (or auto or whatever) which leaves a protective coating that must be replenished every now and then.

I've found RenWax to be effective...it's not a lubricant. It does help to prevent fingerprints on a gun and when applied on the face of a cylinder and inside the cylinder window and around the forcing cone...while it doesn't prevent burn rings and residue, it makes it easier to clean that residue off. It's also good for under grips where the wood or rubber meets the frame.

 

[mm93]

I use Johnson Paste wax but I recently learned that they stopped making it. Glad I stocked up when Home Depot had it for around 2 bucks a can. Wax is all I use for guns and knives. Oil attracts dust, dust attracts moisture, moisture causes rust spots that look like dust spots. For knives I use a wax specifically for knives which has a beewax since it’s safe for food prep. There are a lot of companies making wax for guns these days.

I've used Minn Wax Paste for decades and it's still being made. Just like Johnson's and works great on metal and wood both. I rub it on with a small rag, and then buff with a soft cloth.

In between I wipe my guns with Old West Snake Oil on metal and stocks before putting them away. It too leaves a wonderful appearance. Just use it sparingly as you don't need to slather it on. Just a few drops on a rag to wipe the whole gun(s) down. I keep the rag in a ziplock bag to keep it from drying, and add a few drops before each use.