Replace Your GunVault Battery

flat_topp

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Today I tried to open my GunVault, using my push-button code, and the door would not open. I tried several times with no success and then realized the two-year old 9v battery just didn't have enough juice to release the latch. Fortunately, I knew exactly where to find the backup key and used it to open the door. Good thing there was no emergency need for either of my pistols in that safe.

Lesson learned: Replace the battery more often than once every two years.
 
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Oh yeah... So many people forget about that. Lucky that you remembered where the backup key was! :)
Since it uses a 9v battery, perhaps you could get yourself on a schedule that when you replace your Smoke Alarm batteries, get one for the GunVault too.

There's a company called EBL that has rechargeable batteries, from AAA through D Cell and 9v. They also have a Universal Charger that handles all the sizes (including 9v). They sell via Amazon at a decent price.

Since I've gone rechargeable (with a spare set of each size), I haven't needed to buy batteries in years.
 
Also, be aware that Gun Vault had a bad batch of the little motor of solenoids or whatever the little device is in the vault that operates the lock when you key in the code.

You can tell if you have one if a fresh battery will still not open the door and all you hear is a "whirring" sound. They will replace the vault for free if you got one of those.

My belief, though not confirmed, is that if you have one with the single 9V battery, as opposed to the bank of AA batteries, then the vault is much newer than the range with the bad little motor or whatever opens that lock.
 
I'm loving my Gun Vault, only had it three months.

I used a 9 volt lithium ion battery which is suppose to last 10 years in a smoke detector. I try to open it as a matter of course every few days just for giggles, I'll keep an eye on the battery.
Thanks for the heads up.
 
Replacing the battery on a regular schedule is a good idea, but it is equally important NOT TO LOOSE THE KEY. Even with a new battery if the solenoid or keypad dies you're going to have to destroy the danged thing if you don't have the key to get it open. Keep that key in a nice secure accessible location!
 
You might want to look at some Google searches on how secure these safes are. I miss placed my key and using the paper clip method had mine open in 6 seconds. I now have heavy duty hasp on both of mine with heavy duty digital locks. Don
 
I change my battery the same day I change the ones in my smoke and gas detectors. January 1st, every year. And I write down the date on the batteries so I know it's fresh. I keep the older batteries for my kids toys and remote controls and whatnot. My gun vault has the AA batteries. Had it at least 5-6 years. Never failed to open, but I do put the key in the lock at bedtime to make opening it a guarentee. I store the key in my Fort Knoxx pistol safe. Fort Knox uses the simplex lock, far more reliable but not as easy to open under pressure.

Truth be told, I think all safes are pretty much useless. A thief who wants in is gonna get in. Unless we're talking high end high dollar safes, which I am sorry to say, I don't have. Hidden is better than locked in a safe. Wish my house was bigger. A false wall would be just the thing.
 
I never understood why anyone would bet there life on a battery working AND an electric motor operating in an emergency situation.

Firm believer in Murphy's law.
 
If you use a Gun Vault because of kids in the house there's an easy answer. Open it when you go to bed and lock it up in the morning. No problems if you have to get to the gun under pressure.
 
Thanks for the reminder. I lock my gunvault infrequently; only when the grandchildren are over. Normally I just have the lid down to keep the cat out. On rechargeables, be aware nickel metal hydride batteries lose their charge in storage, some as much as 15-20% a month, unless you have the LSD (low self discharge) batteries. For low usage, long storage applications, conventional alkalines are probably a better bet.
 
My barska biometric safe starts beeping when batteries are at 15 percent. I put lithium batteries in mine.
 
My barska biometric safe starts beeping when batteries are at 15 percent.

After reading your post, I decided to check my GunVault manual to see if it is supposed to have a low battery warning indicator. I have one of the "standard" models, and it does come with a built-in indicator (seven red flashes and seven soft beeps when a valid access code is entered). In my case, the indicator did not activate. Now I'm not sure whether I have a broken indicator, or the battery was not low enough to trip it.

In any case, I intend to follow the warning in the next paragraph in my manual which states the battery should be replaced "once a year regardless of whether or not the low battery indication is observed."
 
Can't the battery be replaced from the outside? The battery for my Liberty safe can be replaced without opening the safe. Also, it gives a low batt warning. Even so, mine gets replaced every 2 years whether it needs it or not.
 
Had the same thing happen to me about 6 months ago. I try to leave it plugged in as-well-as having a fresh battery in it.
 
Can't the battery be replaced from the outside? The battery for my Liberty safe can be replaced without opening the safe. Also, it gives a low batt warning. Even so, mine gets replaced every 2 years whether it needs it or not.

The battery on the GunVault models cannot be replaced from the outside, so if the battery dies you will need to have your backup key to get it open.
 
Had the same thing happen to me about 6 months ago. I try to leave it plugged in as-well-as having a fresh battery in it.

You must have one of the deluxe or biometric versions, with the external AC power supply. Mine is the cheaper standard version, with battery operation only (no AC power option). There is nothing for me to plug in.
 
I have two Fort Knox safes. One is larger than the other. It is set up for firearms, the other has just shelves. Both have electronic locks that use two 9v batteries each. The batteries can be replaced from the outside. I have been very pleased with both, and I think the contents are safe, pardon the pun.
 
I have a Barska finger print safe which also has a battery.

If the battery gets low, when you push the button to read the fingerprints it lets out a loud screeching tone.

But it still will open several times over the course of weeks so you have plenty of time to replace the batteries and still have access to the safe.

A good system. Uses several (6 or 8) AA batteries.
 
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Safe Gun

I just designed a safe gun. You put a 9 volt battery in the grip, and there are three finger print devices that will cause a small solenoid to engage a motor that will unlock the trigger.

It works (almost) every time.

That's only four additional failure-prone devices that make my gun much more safe, as long as you believe that when you need to fire the gun and it doesn't work you are safer.

And for the poster who believes that hiding a gun is better than putting it in a safe? Been there. Done that. Lost the gun to a thief. Never again. If it is so well hidden a thief won't find it, you won't be able to get at it quickly when you need to.

No electronic locks for me. Five-button mechanical Simplex locks have worked perfectly for me for over 35 years. Boxes are anchored in their positions. Simplex Kaba Ilco Online Store - Simplex Lock Available on many different gun boxes and safes from different manufacturers. Kids and nosy friends/neighbors/relatives cannot get in.

With enough time, a thief can get into anything, but the average smash and grab guy only deals with the easy stuff. Put a real decoy safe/box anchored somewhere he is likely to find it first. Keep nothing in it. If he spends the time to open it and get nothing, he will have probably wasted more time than he wants.

If you absolutely have to have an electronic opening device on a safe, do not have it on one you need to access for a life and death situation, and make sure the battery is replaceable from the outside.
 
Wow! I'm surprised--not by the mfr--but by a respected retail chain like Cabelas. In a lawsuit, everyone in the manufacturing and distribution chain could be named, in search of deep pockets. And considering this article being published in Forbes (in 2012), the information is widely disseminated...although this is the first I've heard of it. I tried the impact approach to my GunVault container, and it seems safe from that approach. It uses a button-combination or a barrel type alternate lock, but I just did a quick search and realized I have no idea where the key is, so I may be back to searching for a new case--definitely not Stack-On, though.
 

How old (or new) is the one you opened in 6 seconds Magload? Which method did you use to open it? I have a 2014 model gunvault and after watching some of the videos on U-Tube I tried the things they showed and they didn't work to get mine open. And no, I'm not mechanically inept either, FWIW I'm actually an engineer and I've been a hobbiest auto mechanic / fabricator for over 40 years.

I can see where there is a concern - especially with the older units that are out there still in service. Although I have no evidence to support this, I strongly suspect that a lot of these design flaws have already been addressed. After all, the article linked above is over 3 years old.

I just can't imagine these companies ignoring this for that long. Knowing about the issues and doing nothing would be considered willful disregard and they'd be crucified the first time they were taken to court over it. I haven't heard of that happening and with this info all over the internet I can't see how they could have avoided being put out of business by lawsuits by now if these problems were on-going.
 
FWIW my Baska fingerprint safe also came with an extra external battery box and a connector to hook it to the safe.

So even if your internal battery goes dead, and you can't find the key, you can apply power by plugging the external battery box into the unit.

But that safe was a little more money than the low end gun vaults so the manufacturer could spend more on the design.
 
Mechanical lock for me. This one also has a one of a kind feature that will deadbolt the push button lock when extra security is wanted and also works as a backup key entry if desired (it can be disabled w/stop washer).

IMG_3531.JPG
 
... And if you bolt them down, it's not quite so easy.

I haven't been able to try the "drop test" since my GunVault is bolted down to a heavy piece of furniture. And I am too chicken to try sticking a paper clip down the key hole to test that method for fear of jamming up the works. I think I'll stick with using my pushbutton code and doing a better job of keeping the battery fresh.
 
I never understood why anyone would bet there life on a battery working AND an electric motor operating in an emergency situation.

Firm believer in Murphy's law.

Being an old guy who generally hates electronics I love my old (too small) Browning safe with a combination dial. The battery/electronics have never failed one time. I must admit I lost a Sectional Chart out of an airplane window once but had a spare that was only a little older.

Someday I'll restore a pickup with points and a carburetor that nobody can shutdown with a satellite...jus' sayin'.
 

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