replaced hand

Pig Hunter

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I have a '37 Brazilian flat top frame. 22-4 barrel, and a M-28 cylinder bored out to .45 Colt. The carry up was not quite sufficient. So I am fitting an oversized hand. So far the only real problem I've run into, the hand is starting cylinder rotation just early enough the bolt isn't able to drop freely. Once past that point index and lock up are spot on. There is one rachet is a bit longer but not a big deal. So the $64 question what to work on next to smooth the initial trigger pull. Does this in both SA and DA. Thanks, Mark
 
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Glad to see someone else call it a hand. With S&Ws, they usually call it by another name. Jerry K. calls them hands, so that's what I use.

I'm not that great with Smiths, so I am not 100% sure about your issue. I much prefer working on Colts. The length of the hand isn't important for timing, the thickness is. Maybe you could take a few thousandths off the top in order to give the bolt extra time to drop further. That is what you would do in a Colt. Have you checked the hand at rest to make sure it is flush with the frame window and not extended out past it?

Get the S&W shop manual. I didn't see him address this issue in the hand fitting sections, but I am sure it is in there somewhere. Probably in the ratchet fitting section. Revolvers are finicky creatures.

Maybe someone with more S&W expertise can give some advice.
 
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Thanks Toolguy, I'll check into that. I have Mr. Kunhausen's book, but it doesn't address this problem solution, or adjusting rachets. Is there a way to get a copy of an armouer's guide without taking the class. Everything works correctly, the tip of the hand doesn't protrude too far forward, without the cylinder in and the latch held back. Anyway, thanks for the input.
 
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