Replaceing frame lug on 25-2?

[albanian]

I just bought a 25-2 and it looks like I need to replace the frame lug. No other parts seem worn which seems to strange to me. I have never had a frame lug wear out so I wonder how this happened.

I just called S&W and had them send me one. Is this a job I can do on my own or should I have a gunsmith handle it? I am pretty handy but not a trained gunsmith by any means. I have basic tools but hear there is a special tool needed. Is it just some kind of punch I can buy and do myself or is it more involved than I think?

I plan on doing the fitting and refinishing myself and punching out the lug. I have taken S&W revolver apart before so all I may need the smith for is staking the frame lug.

Please straighten me out if I am way off base. I think this is all that needs to be done but having never done it, I am not sure.

Thanks in advance.

 

[mayuhm]

I think if you pay attention to the way the old one is installed, you will be able to do the job just fine. They are just staked/peened in place, some better than others.

 

[albanian]

The S&W parts guy said they may be staked with a star shaped punch. Ever hear about that tool?

For people who have done this job, what kind of punch would you recommend? I don't have any punches that are not standard.

 

[dfariswheel]

To replace the lug:

Remove the side plate and push out the old lug by laying it on a block with a hole that will pass the lug, and gently tapping it out with a small flat punch

Clean out the lug hole with a solvent like Acetone.

Use solvent to clean the new lug.

Test fit the lug to insure it fits and bottoms out properly, then remove it.

Apply a dab of Loctite Red permanent locker to the hole and lug.

Insert the new lug, make sure it's rotated to the correct orientation and gently tap it in place. Make sure it's fully bottomed out in the plate.

Put the plate on a brass or aluminum block, resting the lug on the block.
If you must use a steel block, pad it with some thin cloth to prevent marking the blued finish.

MAKE SURE THE SIDE PLATE STAYS LEVEL AND THE LUG IS WELL BRACED ON THE BLOCK.
Use a slightly ROUNDED center punch to gently flair the hollow rivet of the new lug. The idea is to expand or flair the rivet, not just beat it flat.

It needs to be riveted enough to insure it won't rotate or loosen, and the rivet itself MUST be flattened enough into it's recess to prevent interfering with the action. If the rivet sticks up past it's recess, the action may catch on it.

Allow to cure for 24 hours, then use hot soapy water to clean off the uncured Loctite.
Apply lube to prevent rust and reassemble.

Test the cylinder opening and closing to insure the new lug isn't binding or interfering with the cylinder, and to insure the cylinder can't slip past the new lug and come off to the rear.

 

[albanian]

Thanks for all the great info.

One more question. What size/type of punch would you use for staking the lug? Maybe something I could get from Sears or the hardware store if possible.

Thanks again.

 

[dfariswheel]

Just go to Sears and buy a 3/8" center punch.
This is a bigger size than the usual size most people have in their tool box.

Use a stone to stone the tip off to a rounded shape.
The idea is to have a rounded tip that will flair the tube without cracking it.

 

[albanian]

Thanks for all the advice. I just replaced my lug over the weekend and everything went smooth. I couldn't and wouldn't have done it if it were not for your info.

I did have to re-blue the lug to match the frame but I have re-blued parts before so that was no problem.

I was able to remove it, fit it, re-blue it and stake it with no hang ups. It looks perfect and professional. I have to admit that I am proud of myself. I also replaced the hand on a S&W M-19 that was out of time.

I fixed two guns in a weekend for $20 worth of parts. Shipping one gun to S&W would cost me $40. It would have cost me a few hundred to have the work done that I did myself for $20 and four hours of work. I am slow and I don't rush myself.