Replacing side plate.

Jaco1234

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I have a K frame revolver with pitting on the side plate.
I am thinking about replacing the side plate.
How much fitting is required? What are the chances of a used plate fitting?
 
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How easy it will be depends partly on how old it is - earlier guns required more hand fitting. Even newer ones can be difficult. The chances of a used plate fitting depends on the answer to those same questions. It's hard to know for sure, but I'd conservatively guesstimate a less than 50% chance of no fitting being required.
 
This is what I've been told, once upon a time--------------

Sideplates are (at least were, back in the day when these things were made by craftsmen) fitted by swaging. Specifically, the sideplate was set into the opening in the frame, and then whammity-bammed into place with a lead/babbit bar----more often than not with one mighty blow by the best of the best. Is that the way of it? Like I said, that's what I've been told---I wasn't there.

It strikes me the first order of business for this procedure is a fixture to hold/support the frame----lest it get bent. It strikes me also the next order of business is to smack the sideplate in EXACTLY the right place----lest it get bent too.

My knee-jerk reaction to all this is I think my first order of business if I needed to replace a sideplate would be to go buy a new gun.

Ralph Tremaine
 
If one needs fitting, you can use a blue or red magic marker to color the edge. Then try it in the frame. any interference points will rub off the marker. Some judicious filing with small files will get you where you're going. It will take several iterations of mark and file. You only have to fit about the top 1/4 of the thickness. Everything below that is just back clearance.
 
If one needs fitting, you can use a blue or red magic marker to color the edge. Then try it in the frame. any interference points will rub off the marker. Some judicious filing with small files will get you where you're going. It will take several iterations of mark and file. You only have to fit about the top 1/4 of the thickness. Everything below that is just back clearance.

And then what happens when the replaced side plate sits .003" low or high of the frame?
I'd say if you can lay hands on three or four plates, you would have pretty good chance of getting a flush fit, but then there is the issue of having an equal surface polish.
If you can get some free or really cheap plates, it may be worth a try.
 
This is a model 14-3 k frame 38 special with a 6 in barrel. serial #8k1****.
The side plate looks like something that removes bluing splashed onto it.
I prefer the pitted side plate to a buffed off S&W logo and re-blued or one that sticks up .003 and lets light shoe around it.
The gun is kinda like Jekyll and Hyde. One side is very good condition the other has a pitted side plate.
Shoots like it has a nice side plate.
 
I've only fitted one once. It was a 1917 stripped frame I customized. I had 5 sideplates to choose from. I picked the one that fit best. I lightly peened around the edges, then lightly polished what I had to with finer sandpaper backed by a pink pearl eraser. Obviously it needed refinishing after all this.
If you can find a bunch of Model 10 sideplates from the era of your 14 to try, you just might get lucky, but doubtful.
Good luck!
 
There's also the pre existing screw hole location to be considered. I just had to return one that had slightly elongated holes. The sideplate itself fit perfectly. But the misfit holes put the yoke screw in a bind, causing the yoke to bind when trying to swing out the cylinder. This was a no dash s&w 60. Might have better luck on something newer, with less factory fitting.
 

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