replacing the cylinder on a Model 10-6

[dalewelch]

I want to convert my old model 10-6 to use a moon clip enabled cylinder. I scored one on gunbroker for $20 and I would rather send the replacement off to be drilled so I can have the original just in case.

I've been reading a lot about cylinder replacement and most people say it's a feat only attempted by the most skilled of pistol smiths. But seeing as my cylinder is a near exact replacement I can't see that much difference in the two cylinders.

It the cylinder barrel gap it tolerable and there is not much end shake etc. then the only thing left is timing and touching up the yoke. I'm the kind of guy that is going to buy and read every book I can get on the subject and buy the best tools for the job instead of sending it off at 1/4 the costs, but it keeps me busy.

Is this task really that hard or is it something I can do if I read up and follow good instructions? I want to do it for my 686 as well, but I figure I'll try it on the cheap gun first.

Thanks for any input.

dale

 

[dfariswheel]

Cylinder fitting is not for everyone. Many people assume you can just drop one in and all the stuff about fitting is BS by greedy gunsmiths.

When installing a new cylinder you have to have one that's compatible with the frame version. Things DID change over the years even if it wasn't major changes that rated an official notice. These parts were hand fitted and used parts will often not fit due to already having been altered for a different frame.

First, you have to fit an ejector to the cylinder.
Again, it has to be compatible with frame and cylinder. Used cylinders fitted with used ejectors will often be too short due to stacking of tolerances caused by fitting to other guns. Used cylinders fitted with the original ejector will often be too short.

Next, you fit the cylinder/ejector assembly to the frame and the joke.

When fitting a cylinder assembly you have to gage or adjust for:
Head space.
End shake.
Barrel/cylinder gap.
Chamber/barrel alignment on all six chambers.
Timing on all six.

If things don't work out because the parts were already altered to another gun, they may not be usable at all. As example, if the cylinder/ejector combination is too short, you can't stretch them.
If the assembly is too LONG, fitting depends on which can be altered if at all. As example, if the assembly is too long, but shortening the ejector will cause insufficient head space, its not usable.

The reason the factory can install parts with no problem is because they have NEW, unfitted parts. The reason non-factory gunsmiths can fit cylinders is because they often have bins full of parts they can test fit until they get a usable assembly.

Bottom line, there's more to this than meets the eye. Just because you can install the cylinder and it locks into the frame, is NOT a guarantee that its really "right".

CAN you install a cylinder? Of course you can, but you need to understand all that's involved and you need to actually gage these things without just assuming its right because it closed into the frame.

 

[dalewelch]

All points well taken. I know the job might be tough and there is a risk of messing up a cylinder. But much like my work on guitars, it's a learning experience.

Guitars and guns are a lot alike, there are very few young people building and doing serious work on guitars because of the intimidation factor involved. You can fit a neck on a guitar, sure you might have to file down some frets and sure you can mess it up but that is the price of learning. I'd love to see more 15 year old kids building guitars and working on revolvers.

I'm reading my books and doing my homework.

dale

 

[Maxw]

Cylinder

You need to check the barrel alignment to cylinder charge hole alignment. Then proceed with fitting.