Replacing yoke screw

[Narragansett]

Hi,
I have a very nice 5"M27-2 that has a slight burr on the yoke retention screw from someone using the wrong screwdriver. Well the bottom line is, that it bugs me. So the choices are, replace the screw, peen the head and reblue or file the burr and cold blue touch up.

I am leaning more towards replacing the screw. So is there any special fitting on this screw beyond having the screw bottomed out and a couple thousandths clearance on the crane?

Thanks

 

[armorer951]

All of the options you mention are doable, and are viable choices. One good reason for "reconditioning" the existing screw is that if a new screw is sourced, it will likely need to be fit to the yoke button.

Smith and Wesson teaches that the initial fit of the yoke button to the screw pilot is done by removing material from the contact point on the button itself. As and "end user" however, if fitting of the new screw becomes necessary, I would recommend removal of material from the screw pilot itself, not the yoke button. The reason here is the screw is relatively inexpensive, compared to a new yoke if a mistake is made.

Please remember though, if a little fitting becomes necessary, that the yoke button bears against the side of the pilot at the end of the screw, not the end of the pilot. So..... modification of the screw to limit it's contact on the button (make the yoke easier to swing out) would entail making the diameter of the piloted end a bit smaller, not by shortening the screw pilot.

The desired size of the diameter of the pilot end (non-threaded portion) of the new screw could easily be per-determined by measuring the current pilot's diameter, and then carefully downsizing the new screw's pilot to the desired size.

Carter

 

[rct269]

Well I'm in deep doo-doo!!

I can read all the words with no trouble at all----so far, so good!

That's the end of the good news! Not really---I just went back over it, and got a good clue about "pilot"---more than a clue really---I know what it means---what it is. So much for that!

Yoke "button" stopped me in my tracks too! BUT---after sittin' and starin' for a bit, I figured out what that was too----even how those two relate to one another.

Apologies for hollerin' b'fore I was hurt

Ralph Tremaine

 

[Narragansett]

All of the options you mention are doable, and are viable choices. One good reason for "reconditioning" the existing screw is that if a new screw is sourced, it will likely need to be fit to the yoke button.

Smith and Wesson teaches that the initial fit of the yoke button to the screw pilot is done by removing material from the contact point on the button itself. As and "end user" however, if fitting of the new screw becomes necessary, I would recommend removal of material from the screw pilot itself, not the yoke button. The reason here is the screw is relatively inexpensive, compared to a new yoke if a mistake is made.

Please remember though, if a little fitting becomes necessary, that the yoke button bears against the side of the pilot at the end of the screw, not the end of the pilot. So..... modification of the screw to limit it's contact on the button (make the yoke easier to swing out) would entail making the diameter of the piloted end a bit smaller, not by shortening the screw pilot.

The desired size of the diameter of the pilot end (non-threaded portion) of the new screw could easily be per-determined by measuring the current pilot's diameter, and then carefully downsizing the new screw's pilot to the desired size.

Thank you Carter. I knew that there was a little something to it. I will try replacing the screw.

 

[armorer951]

Someone once said, a photo is worth a thousand words. I'm not a typist, so here are a couple of illustrations.....

A couple of photos of the interface between the rear side of the "button" on the old style yoke........and the contact site on the button. The mark on the inner surface of the button ("arc") shows the fitted contact of the yoke button with the screw pilot. If you look closely, you can see the mark from the file made during the original fitment of this button. (removal of material)








Carter

 

[rct269]

Truth be known, I was more taking a poke at our Armorer friend than anything else---it ain't nice to use insider words when you're talking to mere mortals like us----or like me anyhow.

That said, he IS an insider, and I wish I was. I have no need whatsoever to have attended Armorer school, but I sure wish I knew what those folks know----makes 'em special!

Ralph Tremaine

 

[notsofast]

I’d take the screw face down, rub it on 220 sand paper (gently & frequently check progress) to smooth the burr, then lightly finish smoothing the screw face with 320 sand paper and WD40, clean, cold blue, polish up with a soft oiled cloth.

 

[chief38]

When working on revolvers, (especially older ones) I find best to fit the least complicated, least expensive and easiest part to replace if need be. Yes, the Yoke button can be shaped and fitted but so can the screw tip. Screws for these old S&W's are easy to find and cheap to replace. Screwing one up is not a big deal.

I have repaired so many gun screws over the years for friends as well as myself I sort of lost count! There are unfortunately many revolvers with buggered up screw heads. A file, a few Arkansas Stones, some sandpaper, a fine wire wheel (in a Foredom Electric Mototool) and some cold Blue and Flitz are the tools I use. If the revolver is Nickel, just high polish the screw with Flitz and a felt wheel - it will blend right in with the nickel finish. I have used many blued screws as donors to repair Nickeled revolvers if the original screw is beyond repair. If the gun is stainless, leave the screw with a satin finish to match. If the revolver is blued, then cold blue the screw to match. It normally takes me about 15 minutes or so to restore the average screw and maybe a bit longer if it is bad and also requires bluing.

NOTE: I have a bunch of revolver screws in stock that I could just grab a replacement, however it is very satisfying to me to restore one back to original condition. It is rare I need to replace one, but once in a while, that is the way to go.