Revolver Sighting/ test fire question

Smithluver

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I have and enjoy my four revolvers. My latest purchase was a 686 Plus 3" .357. When I purchased the weapon I noticed it had much heavier bun rings than any other weapon I have from S&W when first purchased. I know that the weapon is indeed new and new owned so that previous use not a concern. Weapon contained the typical one test cartridge only. On all the other weapons I have from S&W I only had minimal adjustment to make at the range to make me happy. This latest one took about 50-70 rounds to suit me.

Base don above info I have two questions.
(1) Are the weapons "sighted" or adjusted at the factory?
(2) Is the test round the only round shot or just one that they send?

I am happy with the weapon and pleased with where it is now after the adjustments just never had to do as much to any other S&W revolvers as I did this one. Due to the heavier burn rings being on multiple chambers on the weapon I was wondering if maybe S&W had to fire more than one to adjust if indeed that is part of their normal mfg. process.

Thanks for any responses.
 
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Guns are test fired with a proof-load which is loaded to somewhat higher pressure than normal loads. I believe sights are also adjusted to a fairly loose tolerance.
 
I suspect that every once in a while a gun gets pulled off the line for a detailed look-see and testing session. A lot of guns dry-fire real nice, but you find out the problems once you add recoil.

And we all know that when VIPs are given factory tours they have to shoot something.

Normally I believe the guns are shot only three times.
 
The normal practice is to fire three rounds in every gun that leaves the factory. A three ring burn pattern is a common sight on the cylindet face of NIB guns. It's possible, however, your gun was shot more.
 
It should never take 50+ rounds to get POA and POI matched up.

Sent via phone
 
I agree. If it takes more than a couple cylinders to sight it in you may need to look at a different method.

To answer your questions No and No.

Bob
 
SIGHTING IN CAN BE A LENGTHY PROCESS, DEPENDING ON HOW PARTICULAR YOU ARE WITH REGARD TO WHERE YOU WANT YOUR GROUPS TO FALL. I DON'T STOP UNTIL MY GROUPS FALL DIRECTLY IN THE CENTER OF THE X RING @ 50'--PARTICULARLY WITH MY .22s THAT CARRY RED DOTS. JUST TOUCHING THE X RING DOESN'T GET IT. THIS PROCESS SOMETIMES TAKES MORE THAN A BOX OF 50 CCI MINI-MAGS, AS I MOVE THE GROUP AROUND INSIDE THE X RING UNTIL I'M SATISFIED.…….
 
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I'm not that great of a shooter; it took me about 20 rounds to sight-in my new 686. It was shooting about 3" left / 1" low, out of the box.

Just like one eye… it took me about 50 rounds to get the AR MP15-22 sighted-in at 50 yards (with red dot). I like them all to be right on the X, too :)
 
On all the other weapons I have from S&W I only had minimal adjustment to make at the range to make me happy. This latest one took about 50-70 rounds to suit me.

You didn't say exactly what ammo you were using but depending on where the sight was adjusted to when you got it & what type of ammo (bullet weight/power level) you were using, it might take longer to get the two to coincide.

.
 
Thanks to all who have replied. I guess a another guestion has came up now for me though. Generally on a new weapon I go the range and have generally done this process..

1) shoot 2 to 3 cylinders as best I can holding the exact same POA.

2) Move the sights based on the user manual but by only one click either way. Then I see where another full cylinder is on POI then repeat with full cylinders each time. In the case of the 686 I have that is 7 rounds.

I want the groups to be as close as possible and move my selected part of the target on each cylinder as to not confuse myself.

Do others have another quicker process?
 
Yes. As we used to say in adjusting artillery and naval gunfire, spot boldly.

You are trying to creep up on the target's X-ring. Don't.

Instead make larger corrections, sufficient to at least reach the intended point of impact (POI), and perhaps go a bit beyond it. Observe the impact. Now adjust back by subtracting the number of clicks you estimate will get you to intended point of impact. Fire for effect.

For example, say you added 10 clicks and went just as far beyond the intended POI as you were short of it in your first shot. So now you know that it you come back 5 clicks you should be real close to where you need to hit. Works for both windage and elevation adjustments.

Of course, HE frag helps a bit too.:D
 
The guns are function checked with little regard for any sight adjustment. If your gun was fired more than zero to 3 rounds then the tester found a problem and sent it back to a fitter for repair - when it returned it was fired with a full cylinder. A shooter gets a "rack" of 10 guns from a fitter. If a fitter has a good reputation with a shooter, some of that fitters guns will not be fired at all. It's all about getting the job done at the end of the day... If anyone is to blame regarding quality control - it is the fitter that is suppose to catch problems and send for correction.
 
Yes. As we used to say in adjusting artillery and naval gunfire, spot boldly.

You are trying to creep up on the target's X-ring. Don't.

Instead make larger corrections, sufficient to at least reach the intended point of impact (POI), and perhaps go a bit beyond it. Observe the impact. Now adjust back by subtracting the number of clicks you estimate will get you to intended point of impact. Fire for effect.

For example, say you added 10 clicks and went just as far beyond the intended POI as you were short of it in your first shot. So now you know that it you come back 5 clicks you should be real close to where you need to hit. Works for both windage and elevation adjustments.

Of course, HE frag helps a bit too.:D

This is excellent advice!

By creeping up on the x-ring, it's hard to distinguish normal shot dispersion from meaningful sight adjustments. The idea is to move your "cloud" of impacts such that they are distinct. With more accurate firearms and technique, it's simpler to accomplish. The method still applies but your "clouds" are relatively small and you can make small adjustments. Conversely, with more dispersion, you make bigger adjustments.

In all my years of shooting, this is the first time I've heard anyone describe this. Thanks for pointing it out.
 
I agree - well explained and exactly how it should be done.

The nits come when you "rough it in" like that and then you want to add/subtract small increments.

That will drive you crazy :) At some point, you have to call it a day. For me, that's always a few rounds too many!
 
The guns are function checked with little regard for any sight adjustment. If your gun was fired more than zero to 3 rounds then the tester found a problem and sent it back to a fitter for repair - when it returned it was fired with a full cylinder. A shooter gets a "rack" of 10 guns from a fitter. If a fitter has a good reputation with a shooter, some of that fitters guns will not be fired at all. It's all about getting the job done at the end of the day... If anyone is to blame regarding quality control - it is the fitter that is suppose to catch problems and send for correction.

Are you saying that each gun is not fired with a proof load?
 
It seems to me that most new revolvers I have seen, with adjustable sights, are set from the factory at "combat zero" - Windage and elevation adjusted to their mid points. The fine tuning is up to you.

Larry
 
Yes. As we used to say in adjusting artillery and naval gunfire, spot boldly.

You are trying to creep up on the target's X-ring. Don't.

Instead make larger corrections, sufficient to at least reach the intended point of impact (POI), and perhaps go a bit beyond it. Observe the impact. Now adjust back by subtracting the number of clicks you estimate will get you to intended point of impact. Fire for effect.

For example, say you added 10 clicks and went just as far beyond the intended POI as you were short of it in your first shot. So now you know that it you come back 5 clicks you should be real close to where you need to hit. Works for both windage and elevation adjustments.

Of course, HE frag helps a bit too.:D

Thanks much! I will give this method a try on my next new purchase. I really was doing what you described and "Ok" with the results as long as the POI was moving according to my adjustment.
 
For what it is worth, I have found that some of my .357 Magnum Revolvers when fired with .38 Specials will sometimes show a heavier ring on the cylinder face than on a .38 Special cylinder. The only thing that comes to mind is that the bullet is traveling and is in the chamber slightly longer and has more burn time than in the shorter .38 cylinder. I can't scientifically prove that but that's the only thing I can think of.

I have always been able to zero in a new Revolver within one or two cylinders full and they are usually fairly close out of the box. I can't remember turning a sight screw more than just a few clicks one way or the other before getting POA = POI for me.

AFAIK the Factory does shoot 3 shots before shipping. Some States require a "marked shell" with a NEW gun to register it so that might be why you got it - at least if I am understanding you correctly.
 

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