Rifle reloading, where do I start?

[HAWKEYE10]

I have reloaded for hand guns for years but I bought a Savage model 12 BVSS in .223 and I think I need to learn to reload for it. Where do I go to learn about reloading for this rifle? I have a Lyman turret press will this work for the 223? The rifle has a 1 in 9 twist. I know some of you guys reload for rifle to. Thanks for any help and a Merry Christmas to all. Don

 

[sourdough44]

You must have some reloading manuals around, I'd start there. Yes your turret press should work fine, you will need an shell holder plate for the 223, 9mm & possibly 380 may just work. Most of my 223 loads are with 50,52, & 55 grn bullets. Give some thought to proper COL for your rifle with whatever bullet you plan to use. I start by looking at book numbers then I measure my chamber with a tool to see at what length the bullet touches the rifling.

For the 223 I like TAC, H-4895, Exterminator, & maybe Varget for powders, though many will do.

 

[Culina]

with a 1/9 twist you can go up to 69 grains, I like the Sierra HPBTM and Varget for powder.

 

[Skip Sackett]

Don,
When you get a load for that baby, it is going to be a stinkin' TACK DRIVER! DUDE!

Nice firearm.

I am relatively new to reloading for rifle too. I know this, it has a lot more stuff to do to get good ammo than it takes to get good 38spl stuff!


Here are a few things to consider:
New brass needs to be resized.
Make sure you use a lube on all brass when you do a full length resize. (Too much lube is a bad thing. Especially at the tapered portion of the case. Dents can occur if there is too much.)
If you are doing a "neck only" resize, those cartridges can can only be used in the rifle they were fired in. (They may work in others but not guaranteed)
Doing a "neck only" resize will give you more accurate ammo as long as it is not a semi auto that you are going to shoot it in.
After sizing, either way, you need to verify case length. If it is over recommended length YOU MUST TRIM! If not, the bullet can "pinch" the neck and take part of the case down the barrel with it. Excessive pressures will result.
For that rifle, you will measure every powder charge. Have a good, easy to read scale and learn how to "trickle" with a Lee dipper like Paul5388 taught me. (Picture is here on the forum in the sticky at the top, "Tips and Tricks")
Use a partially neck only sized case, no primer or powder, with a bullet that is seated too long. Be careful and close the action. Open the action again and that is your absolute maximum OAL for YOUR firearm. You really have to do that for every bullet configuration, even if it is the same weight as others, because nose shape can differ from manufacturer to manufacturer. Back off .010" to .015" and that is your OAL for that bullet/rifle combination.
There is no need to crimp BUT, you may find that a little will help tighten groups. In my opinion, the Lee collet dies make the best sense. Just me though.

I shoot an AR-15, nothing fancy mind you, that has a 20" barrel with a 1:9' twist. I have two loads for it. One with a 69gr Sierra HPBT and a full charge of Varget. It will shoot sub MOA all day long from that firearm. My range fodder is a 55gr (any body's) bullet with a full charge of BLC-(2). That will shoot MOA from my AR all day long too. Much cheaper to make as well.

Your barrel will shoot the heavier bullets very well. It will also shoot the 55gr and a coyote @ 300 yards ain't gonna know the difference!

There is more, but I need to let someone else in here that knows more than me!

Hope it helps AND, we will require target pictures once a load is chosen!

 

[butcher1]

Had the same rifle, loaded that puppy up with Hornady 68 gr bthp or the sierra 69 gr, both shot excellant with different loads of Accurate 2230. I used a single shot adaptor and seated them right to the lands. Great shootin rifle. I now have the 12 VLP and shoot the same loads.
Enjoy.

 

[venomballistics]

where to start ..... well ya already did so just get a set of dies and jump on in.
about the only difference you might find is in the size die.
in a rifle die, the up stroke sizes as usual, the down stroke expands the neck which eliminates a die.
you will also need to use case lube too.
all that aside ... same rules apply as they did with pistols. start low build high watch for signs of pressure and dont shoot your eye out

 

[jkc]

Plenty of good advice so far. If you're loading exclusively for your boltgun, or can at least keep your ammo segregated, then neck-only sizing will not only provide cases fire-formed for a particular rifle's chamber, but also be easier on your brass, resulting in somewhat longer case life, at least in theory. Here's a tip for establishing optimum bullet seating depth which is, just shy, i.e., almost, but not quite, contacting the rifling's lands.

Use a dummy (unprimed, uncharged, sized and trimmed to proper length) case. Seat the bullet at a reasonably long length, or shallow depth. "Smudge" the bullet --- a candle flame works well for the purpose --- until it's blackened with soot, then run the dummy round into the chamber and cam the bolt closed. If the depth is over long, you will see marks left by the lands in the smudge --- seat deeper until there's just barely no contact. Or, you can reverse the procedure and start with a bullet seated a little deeper, and keep reseating it until it contacts the lands, but to do it this way, you'll need to pull the bullet after each trial, but you wont risk jamming an overlength cartridge into the lands, which may require extracting a stuck bullet. The point is to reduce to minimum the distance that the bullet "jumps" from the case neck until it engages the rifling. Hardly worth the trouble in most hunting rifles, but one among many little tricks to wring the the last tiny fractions of an inch from your group sizes. Good luck!

 

[beagleye]

weigh ever charge

for target shooting.

 

[trulyapostolic]

Buy Lapua brass. It's very uniform with primer pockets that last twice as long as anything else.

 

[Skip Sackett]

Buy Lapua brass. It's very uniform with primer pockets that last twice as long as anything else.

You forgot something about it too, PRICE! It is usually much, much, more expensive. Don't even think about it in 7.62X54R!

 

[Rule3]

Buy Lapua brass. It's very uniform with primer pockets that last twice as long as anything else.

Buy Hornady brass which is as good and LOT cheaper.

Scroll down a bit.

223 Rem + 223 AI Cartridge Guide

 

[trulyapostolic]

You forgot something about it too, PRICE! It is usually much, much, more expensive. Don't even think about it in 7.62X54R!

Lapua is not nearly as expensive as Norma, and better quality to boot.