Roll crimp dies

BillBro

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Are they pretty much all the same or is there one that sort of stands out as the go-to?

Is the Redding profile crimp die the same thing and is it worth the extra $?

Not liking the Hornady seating/crimping die. I always do them seperately anyway so using a seperate die wont be a big deal but I just dont like the crimp and it seems kinda rough on the case mouth too.
 
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It is, in my experience, not so much about the brand of the dies as the person setting the crimp. IMHO, it is almost ALWAYS better to apply the crimp as a 2nd step after seating, whether a taper or a true roll crimp.

I have LEE FCDs for all the calibers I reload, whether they are the carbide or collet types, when available...

Cheers!
 
A "profile Crimp" seems to be a "hybrid" roll crimp with a taper crimp base. I have been using them for my magnum reloads for many years and they seem to hold better, and look better, than plain roll crimps. I don't know if the dimensions vary on roll crimp dies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some may be be prettier (better finish) than others but all the roll crimp dies I have used will roll the case mouth as well as any...
 
I use a case length gauge to check cases after removing fired primer and sizing. This helps when crimping cases with 148 grn HBWC for Colt Mid Range and taper crimping 45 ACP. Once its set easy to load. Then plunk test every 30- 40th round.
 
I may be the exception, but I didn't care for my Redding profile crimp dies in .38 or .45. First, I lost velocity and had unburned powder even though both were adjusted .002" - .004" less than the body of the case. Crimped so hard that it left scratches on the case mouths. Second, profile crimp .45 acp bullets will not feed in a semi-auto. Went back with my standard RCBS 3-die seating die (roll for .38 and taper for .45) without any problems.
 
I may be the exception, but I didn't care for my Redding profile crimp dies in .38 or .45. First, I lost velocity and had unburned powder even though both were adjusted .002" - .004" less than the body of the case. Crimped so hard that it left scratches on the case mouths. Second, profile crimp .45 acp bullets will not feed in a semi-auto. Went back with my standard RCBS 3-die seating die (roll for .38 and taper for .45) without any problems.

Guess design of dies has changed. My 45 ACP die for seating and taper crimping is adjustable. Had it to tight and had rings of lead at mouth of case, did not do plunk test. Easy, just backed off partial turn raising crimp few thousand and all was perfect. Have found that 45 ACP brass hardly stretches at all.
OTOH have to carefully check case length of 38 Spl. cases for Colt Mid Range as it head spaces off case mouth. Revolvers loads are easy.
 
I may be the exception, but I didn't care for my Redding profile crimp dies in .38 or .45. First, I lost velocity and had unburned powder even though both were adjusted .002" - .004" less than the body of the case. Crimped so hard that it left scratches on the case mouths. Second, profile crimp .45 acp bullets will not feed in a semi-auto. Went back with my standard RCBS 3-die seating die (roll for .38 and taper for .45) without any problems.

1-Redding profile crimp dies are not designed to be used on 45 acp bullets without a cannelure.

2-Crimping too hard that it leaves scratches on the case is not desirable with any die, and is lack of proper adjustment.
 
The Profile Crimp Die really shines with heavy magnum loads. Back in the heyday of magnum revolvers many (myself included) used both a taper crimp die and a roll crimp die. Then Redding essentially combined them in the Profile Crimp die and we didn't have to crimp twice anymore.

Outside of that, I haven't found them beneficial for the cost in other calibers that don't have "magnum" in their name. I can't suggest a die because the Hornady are my favorite.

I've only had problems with one seating/crimp die. Sometimes you have a certain combination of components and dies that just don't work together.
 
I have been loading handgun calibers since 1971, all with Lee dies. I always seat and crimp with the same die. Apparently with some success since I have never had a shooting problem with either rimmed or rimless cases.

A few years ago, after reading comments about Lee FCDs, I bought one for .38 Spl.

I just don't get it. Either way my crimps look OK.

What am I missing?
 
It takes some experimenting. Depending on the kind of powder, you may need a heavier crimp or a lighter crimp to get complete burning and best velocity from your loads. In 44 mag, .357 mag, etc. it can make a difference.
 
The major attraction (at least to me) of the LEE Carbide FCDs is the carbide ring, not so much the crimp function, which should be the same as the crimp on the seating dies, i.e., a roll crimp for the revolver calibers, taper for the semi-automatics.

The ring pretty much assures the rounds should chamber (if everything else is all right re: the OAL)...

I still check with a Lyman Ammo Checker and/or the Plink! Test.

Cheers!

P.S. LEE also makes their collet-style crimp dies for most revolver calibers: I have ones for 357, 44 & 45...
 
Lee FCD collets for all of my bottleneck and revolver
cartridges. Seems like a lot of detractors but one hole
groups and ease of use don't lie.
Note: 357mag, 44mag collet dies et al can be shortened for special type
cartridges.

Lee carbides for everything else. Again, group sizes and ease
of use don't lie.
 
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I found the FCD (for handgun rounds) to size the cases after a crimp which often sized my cast bullets too. I have never had a need, in 40+ years of reloading, to resize any handload after crimping. If a round would not chamber I would find out why and fix the situation. The FCD I had sized down my bullets about .003" so I knocked out the carbide ring, and the crimp was just so-so, so I went back to my Redding profile crimp. When I started reloading I seated and crimped in separate steps and still do today...
 
Another fan of Redding's profile crimp die for hard recoiling revolver cartridges.

I use one to crimp 45 acp. My bullets have a crimp groove so I get a roll crimp on a normally taper crimped bullet. I had to do that because of bullet migration locking up the cylinder on my 625.

I think I got the tip right here on this forum but I can't remember who suggested it.

I may buy one for my .357 loads because I like to crimp in a separate operation.
 
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I use one to crimp 45 acp. My bullets have a crimp groove so I get a roll crimp on a normally taper crimped bullet. I had to do that because of bullet migration locking up the cylinder on my 625.

I think I got the tip right here on this forum but I can't remember who suggested it.

I may buy one for my .357 loads because I like to crimp in a separate operation.

Years ago, bought a Corbin cannelure tool specifically to put cannulures on 230 gn 45 acp bullets to use in a 625 with 45 AR brass. Bullet on the right is a speer 230 gn GDHP loaded to slightly above 45 acp velocity's.
 

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