Ruger GP-100 cleaning/new springs

[Racer X]

I know this is a S&W forum, but the basics are the same. I have a video for the MCarbo spring kit, and I know to not remove metal, just smooth, and stay the heck away from the hammer notch, and sear edge.

What is the oil/grease situation? Where and what? I have spray on dry lube with ptfe and boron nitride. Just a quick blast and work the trigger action a few times? I also have a pinpoint oiler with synthetic 10w-30 in it. I can do precision drops with it.

not that it matters, but it is a blued 4" .357 magnum.

Our bears aren't huge here in the Pacific North West, and I carry a 10mm, but my partner loves revolvers. More concerned with irritated cougars.

When it comes to revolvers, here is where I trust the most.

 

[WR Moore]

I tend to prefer dry lube myself. Stray particulates don't tend to stick to it. The stuff you're describing seems like the lube I use on the spindle gearing of my lathe.

I've been using Dri-Slide for decades. You might have to find it at an industrial supply. Moly disulfide in an evaporative carrier.

 

[Rule3]

There is no magic lube. Most gun lubes contain PTFE (Teflon) so when the carrier evaporates it leaves some dry lube. Like CLP. But you can use a few drops of any oil like your 10w-30

 

[chief38]

The key to proper lubrication is to use a good gun oil and sparingly. You do not want to have excess oil inside any gun that will attract debris, dust or unburned powder.

In a revolver (any brand) I do not use grease. Grease stays put better however it also dries up, gets gooey, thick and attracts everything. Off the top of my head, I know of no revolver manufacturer that recommends grease be used. Just a small amount of good quality gun oil.

I am aware some here do use grease and that's their prerogative, however after being inside many different brand and model revolvers over 40+ years I see what happens - I'll stick with gun oil. I'd use any oil that has been around for a long time and has proven itself like G96, Breakfree CLP, Hoppes, etc. I usually stay away from "new miracle" products that claim they will do everything better, slicker and longer - at least until time proven.

When I go woods walking in Bear Country, I still do use a Revolver with Magnums. This IMHO is a better option to auto loaders in both the reliability and power department. As much as I rely on a semi auto for SD, I would not count on a 9mm for stopping any descent size Bear.

 

[robertrwalsh]

On the rare occasion that I go into bear-cat country I carry a S&W 58. I am not a huge fan of motor oil for gun lube, I prefer a gun specific product. Like Breakfree, RemOil or G96. As noted above USE SPARINGLY.

 

[Racer X]

I've got a pint of Breakfree CLP. I'll fill a designated oiler with some then. I got a 4 pack of needle oilers from Amazon and have a selection of lubes for household "fixes" Our doors are effortless as the hinges run on PTFE/boron nitride wet lube. I bet I could push a few of the hollow core doors closed by blowing on them.

 

[stansdds]

A little bit of oil goes a long way inside of a revolver. I prefer a very thin film on contacting surfaces, nothing more.

 

[Pig Hunter]

With Ruger double action revolvers the trigger and hammer can have too much lateral slop and bushings can reduce friction by keeping things centered. Watch for wear on the sides of the trigger and hammer for wear patterns.

 

[Racer X]

With Ruger double action revolvers the trigger and hammer can have too much lateral slop and bushings can reduce friction by keeping things centered. Watch for wear on the sides of the trigger and hammer for wear patterns.

My GP-100 spring kit came with shims, if needed.