Ruger LCR?

Glenn R. McMannly

Glenn R. McMannly

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How are the Ruger LCR revolvers? Some are claiming the trigger is better than our J-frames. I find this difficult to believe from a Ruger product. But they appear to be lightweight and popular guns.

Are these reliable? Durable? How are they in general?
 
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LCR

I have had almost every version except .22 (but I have had the .22 magnum).
The triggers are excellent, and I think are better than an out of the box j frame. Barrels are straight on every one since they are part of the frame. They are light weight, reliable, and you can pick from multiple calibers and barrel lengths. The sights can be changed out and are better that the fixed j frame blade. Once you get the longish but very smooth trigger down hitting with them is easy. I think the grips, while not as conducive to concealment as the j frame options, are very comfortable for shooting. The biggest downside for those that care (and I kind of do) is they are pretty ugly compared to most j frame models.
I grew up a Smith guy but at present, if I wanted a durable, reliable, light weight pocket\ small revolver for carry, there are some better choices than a Smith out there. The LCR is one of them if you can embrace the looks.
Just my opinion .
 
Agreed. px4 covered all of the salient points save for one:
You also get a longer ejector stroke to get those empties out. :D
That said, the LCR trigger pulls in .22 are quite heavy compared with J-frames, IDK why.
 
I have shot a couple ruger LCR;s from a 3" 22mag to a 38 and 357mag version . For the money today I would not buy a ruger lcr and the trigger pulls I did not find to be any good specially for there new retail cost .

After getting to try a new Taurus 856 2" I would buy that over ether the ruger or s&w today and note its a 6 shot 38sp+P rated . None of todays da sa snubby's have a good trigger pull so saying that today I would buiy a taurus 856 if a 38sp +P was wanted and the 3" version I shot comes with hogue rugger grip and weights just over 17oz for the 3" model . That with todays newer federal 130gr micro hst is the load to use but the grips make this a soft shooter . Check out the retail price 3" is $ 449 , 2" is $379 .

My wife bought a s&w 360J 357mag solid cylinder snubby a while back and it was a real bargain price new 4 years old at our gun store as part of a s&w edc kit . It really did need a apex trigger kit to make it a useable reliable shootable for my wife ,, or me . Add hogue mono grip for far better control too .

I have an '90 taurus 85 SS thats so nice I would not sell or trade for a new ruger or s&w today .
 
I have owned and shot an LCR for many years now. However I don't carry or shoot the LCR often and I have found that you have to stay in practice using the LCR trigger. While the LCR's that I have handled have had nice smooth trigger pulls, they do have one major drawback. LCR triggers have a rather sluggish return/reset and it is quite common to outrun the trigger and get short stoking issues which results in a locked up trigger until you remember to completely release the trigger and slow down.
 
The LCR I rented had a trigger w/a false reset w/every shot. It is something that range time/training can overcome but I’ve been shooting J Frames for over 50 years so I passed on it.
 
mckenney99 said:
I have owned and shot an LCR for many years now. However I don't carry or shoot the LCR often and I have found that you have to stay in practice using the LCR trigger. While the LCR's that I have handled have had nice smooth trigger pulls, they do have one major drawback. LCR triggers have a rather sluggish return/reset and it is quite common to outrun the trigger and get short stoking issues which results in a locked up trigger until you remember to completely release the trigger and slow down.
Click to expand...

I can outrun my j-frame triggers but it’s worse on my LCR. The false reset is a training issue I just haven’t put the time in to overcome. It’s really the “wardens” gun.
 
When the LCRs were new on the market, our boy called from the LGS and asked if he should buy the 38 or 357.
The LGS was owned by a retired Cop friend who was also the Chief Instructor at one of the Judo clubs that was associated with our club.
He came home with the 357 version and was not smiling.
The 38s were ok, the 38+P were brutal and the 357s...
Never Again. :D
I gave him $400 for it as it was $425 out the door with a holster.

Loaded up 50 38s and 38+P and 50 hot 375s.
Ran the 100 on a Friday night and on Saturday morning my hand still had a bit of sting.

Liked it but a buddy needed one and a minty '71 DS was available for $600. The LGS manager said it's for sale now but he'll keep it if I don't buy it that day. Had just used up my gun budget for two new S&Walther PPKs pistols, so I sold the LCR to that buddy for $400.
He was happy as the prices had gone up and the LCR looked minty. Great for pocket carry on boats, as he was a young Marine Electronics tech.

My boy is bigger and stronger now and said to never sell the old Sec6 snub or the two PPKs pistols.
 
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My fiancé has an LCR with laser and the laser broke. The gun is OK with a decent trigger and sights but I don’t care for it much. I would much rather spend a little more money and get a new no lock Smith 642 or better yet, any older no lock J frame. A $18 wolf or Bullseye spring kit makes the trigger fine.
 
ought one in 22 about 10 or so years ago and it froze up with rapid double action dry firing. Sent it back and Ruger changed out about everything in it. Never trusted it again even though it worked. Sold it. In my opinion, if you want a lightweight .38 snub, I'd fo with an alloy J frame with a proven lockwork. If you want a 357 J frame, I'd go with all steel or an SP101 or Kimber. I just don't trust the new fangled "plastic" revolvers, either S&W or Ruger after my experience...
 
LVSteve said:
False resets are a training issue with revolvers and semis. Don't want to get caught out by a false reset? Let the trigger go out all the way on its own.

(Now expecting a hostile visit from the reset Mafia and the split time freaks)
Click to expand...

I agree with the above and as a result it is a prime example of either training to release trigger to the point your finger just ever so lightly so it comes off the trigger with whatever you happen to be shooting or you should stick to a particular brand or action for serious use.
 
I think the Jframe triggers are easier to stage than the LCR triggers. Yes, the LCR trigger is lighter and shorter on a pull through trigger pull but they are tough to stage IMO.....I prefer a Ruger Revolver in most every way to all other brands EXCEPT for the LCR....If Im gonna carry a 5 shot I say J frame for me.... Just my .02
 
I had one in .327 Fed Mag. It was pleasant with .32 H&R, but downright painful (like full house 158 gr. magnums out of a model 340 painful) with hot loaded .327. The trigger was very smooth with no staging. I think the few .327’s I put through it were it’s downfall because it just locked up on me one day while shooting .32 H&R’s. I got a return label from Ruger and in about a week I had what seemed like a brand new revolver with the same serial number. Never shot it again and eventually traded or sold it, can’t remember. That was about 6 or 7 years ago.
 
I have an LCR 327 and have had no trouble with that little spitting dragon.

Shot quite a few 100gr American Eagle 327 rounds thru it.
 
I love my LCR,the only thing compared to my 36 and 442 it has a weird rattle.
 
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