I have the 4" version, I put wolf springs in and now have light strikes with mine on occasion, haven't shot it in a few months(need to rectify that) but I know my reloads I need to use a certain primer in to not have light strikes. I also prefer the stock grips, but I'm a recoil junky and enjoy my hand knowing when I'm shooting the good stuff.
Ruger Revolver SP101
- Thread starter MCorps0311
- Start date
Great choice MCorps0311
Here is my barbeque ensemble:
Ruger SP101 .357 Magnum. Concealed hammer. Crimson Trace.
Remington Golden Sabers for carry. (Reloads for practice)
Holster is K&D's Eagle Defender with gator trim.
Knife if Kershaw's Junkyard Dog II.
Simply Rugged gunbelt.
Here is my barbeque ensemble:
Ruger SP101 .357 Magnum. Concealed hammer. Crimson Trace.
Remington Golden Sabers for carry. (Reloads for practice)
Holster is K&D's Eagle Defender with gator trim.
Knife if Kershaw's Junkyard Dog II.
Simply Rugged gunbelt.
Attachments
I have two of the SP101s. Both are the originals, between 1,500-3,000 were made. I bought my first one brand new, as an FFL dealer years ago. Should have bought a case of them. Barrels are stamped "125 Grain". These are actually 3 1/6" barreled 38 SP101s, that Ruger decided to market as 357 to test demand for a 357 SP101. Because they have a smaller frame and shorter cylinder, a 357 round larger than 125 grain would not cycle. Demand took off, so Ruger spent the $100,000 or so to retool for the frame and th mold for the cylinder.
The 125 Grain version is slightly smaller, lighter and handles great. It recoils straight back into the shooter's hand, for fast follow up shots.
My wife and I both shoot them stock, with 357 or 38+P without issue and she's very accurate with it.
Some say the 125 Grain version is worth more, some say less. Auction sites say more ; )
The 125 Grain version is slightly smaller, lighter and handles great. It recoils straight back into the shooter's hand, for fast follow up shots.
My wife and I both shoot them stock, with 357 or 38+P without issue and she's very accurate with it.
Some say the 125 Grain version is worth more, some say less. Auction sites say more ; )
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attn: josywales
Hi josy. You mention having 2 of the earliest mfg SP101's. Do these guns have a weak trigger return spring? I spoke to 2 NYPD cops who had 101's in .38Spl in the early 90s and both complained that you had to be aware of allowing the trigger to return properly. I also read about this at the intro of the 101.
Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
Hi josy. You mention having 2 of the earliest mfg SP101's. Do these guns have a weak trigger return spring? I spoke to 2 NYPD cops who had 101's in .38Spl in the early 90s and both complained that you had to be aware of allowing the trigger to return properly. I also read about this at the intro of the 101.
Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
I installed Chig's grip inserts and Wolff springs this week. The grip inserts are a little thicker and give it a slight palm swell that I like. Plus, I wanted a different look.
On the springs, I first installed the 10 lb hammer spring only. It made a noticeable improvement but still exceeded the 10 lb limit on my trigger pull scale. I'd guess it reduced it from about a 13-14 lb pull to about 11 lbs. I then added in the 8 lb trigger return spring and cleaned/lubed the action really good. The end result was a DA pull just over 9lbs and a SA pull right at 3 lbs...just how I want it. I'll test her out this weekend but I don't expect any problems.
And a bonus, my SP101 fits perfectly into my LCR holsters.
On the springs, I first installed the 10 lb hammer spring only. It made a noticeable improvement but still exceeded the 10 lb limit on my trigger pull scale. I'd guess it reduced it from about a 13-14 lb pull to about 11 lbs. I then added in the 8 lb trigger return spring and cleaned/lubed the action really good. The end result was a DA pull just over 9lbs and a SA pull right at 3 lbs...just how I want it. I'll test her out this weekend but I don't expect any problems.
And a bonus, my SP101 fits perfectly into my LCR holsters.
gman51
Member
I had an SP101 .327 and I had to put tamer grips on it to shoot the 327 mags. The stock grips pulverized my fingers.
Ruger revolvers are built tough as nails. I have the GP100 with is basically the same as the SP101, but larger scale. I greatly improved the trigger by taking some 800 grit wet dry paper and polishing all contact points inside. There's a guy in Michigan here that makes and sells trigger and hammer shims for Ruger revolvers. Can't remember the name, but google Ruger hammer shims and you'll find it. Those and a set of reduced power springs from Midway USA.com and you'll be a happier Ruger owner. Home trigger jobs on the Ruger are super easy to do.
This is the risk of replacing the return spring with reduced power springs. You literally need to train yourself to get your trigger finger off the trigger after the shot or it will not reset properly. These revolvers aren't like a Glock with a super short reset. After pulling in DA mode you have to let the trigger go far enough forward to reset before you pull the next shot off. That stock heavy reset spring is there to keep it reliable by forcing the trigger forward . If it's a carry gun I'd advise against putting reduced power springs in it anyway. That easy trigger is good for targets, but in a stressful life or death situation you'll be able to pull that trigger with your pinky finger anyway. Carry guns need to go bang EVERY time.
Good post, thanks! Apparently the factory did address this matter. I remember reading in reviews about weak rebound springs when the 101 first appeared.
Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
