Ruger single 6 opinions

brigeton

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I have a Ruger single 6 that I bought in about 1986. It's .22lr only, no mag cylinder. The chambers on it are very tight, loading it is a chore and takes the fun out of shooting it. I called a local gun store and they suggested sending it right back to Ruger. I also wondered about trading it on a Ruger Mark IV or S&W Victory. They said I would do much better selling it outright. I do have one guy on another forum that's interested but I have no idea what it's worth.
 
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I have a Ruger single 6 that I bought in about 1986. It's .22lr only, no mag cylinder. The chambers on it are very tight, loading it is a chore and takes the fun out of shooting it. I called a local gun store and they suggested sending it right back to Ruger. I also wondered about trading it on a Ruger Mark IV or S&W Victory. They said I would do much better selling it outright. I do have one guy on another forum that's interested but I have no idea what it's worth.

If you like single-action .22s, the Single-Six is the best one ever made (my opinion). If you're dissatisfied with the '86 model, sell it or trade it for an Old Model Single-Six (three-screw). You might even find one with the extra magnum cylinder.
 
A single six (I've had "more than one") is a whole different world from the Marks (have had a few of those as well).

I can't compare them to give up the single six for a Mark. Different uses.

I've seen 22win mag cylinders on various boards (can't give you links, as I didn't need one), but it would need to be fitted by a gunsmith.

You didn't say if it was blued or stainless. I've seen stainless on consignment at $550+ sell quickly, while blued is going to bring a good bit less and sit for a while.

I sold a blued, like new, both cylinders for a bit over $400 after consignment, but it took months.

I saw a stainless (both cylinders, mid 90's mfg), made an offer, the LGS countered, I made a second visit the next day, but it was gone.
 
I agree the Mark is a totally difference experience than the single 6. I have a Single 6 SS with both cylinders that I’ll keep for ever. When I bought it decades ago, and the price tag is still in the box, I paid $165. I’ve owned several Mark I, II and III’s but don’t own one now. While I think they’re great guns and fun to shoot I’ve never liked the stock trigger. The single 6, the trigger is excellent. Let’s say there’s no way I’d trade my single 6 for a Mark IV.

I did recently buy a Victory with the red dot and carbon fiber barrel. While not a SA revolver, it’s a tremendous and crazy accurate pistol. Personally I’d buy a Victory over the MK any day. As to the single 6 vs the Victory, it really comes down to the experience you’re looking for.
 
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I talked to a gunsmith yesterday. He said a reamer probably wouldn't do any good as it was reamed at the factory and a reamer probably wouldn't cut anything. He blamed cheap ammo. It is a blued gun and he said to ask about $225 for it.
 
If the chambers are tight, and its not due to fouling, then a finish reamer will open them up enough to allow for easy loading. Its a common problem, and known fix with S&W .22 revolvers. Trying different ammo might make a difference.

$225 seems a little low for that gun if its in good shape. More like $300 I would think.

Larry
 
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I'm one of those kind of guys that believes in not passing a problem gun to another. Either have it fixed or you fix it then once that's done decide to keep it, trade it, or sell it. Good luck.
 
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I just laid away a 4-5/8" SS Single Six with both cylinders for $350. It has a nick on the side of the frame that I may try to polish out. Consider yours has issues and is missing the mag. cylinder it maybe a bit low at $225. Considering the price of the ammo I wouldn't shoot mag cylinder much. Maybe just for my own research. I think one of the hyper velocity rounds would give higher velocity at a lower price. I had a one cylinder blued Single Six I sold locally a couple years ago for $275 IIRC. New ones are getting up there. I think if it were me I'd try reaming the chambers. S&W's are known for tight chambers and they are reamed at the factory too. A worn reamer could cause that with any brand. The Single Six is the perfect woods gun. I for one prefer the traditional 6 shooter. Even my 8 shot Mod 63 just doesn't look right but for the price I couldn't pass it up. Of course YMMV. Good luck.
 
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I talked to a gunsmith yesterday. He said a reamer probably wouldn't do any good as it was reamed at the factory and a reamer probably wouldn't cut anything. He blamed cheap ammo. It is a blued gun and he said to ask about $225 for it.

In addition to getting your cyl problem fixed you need to find a
new gunsmith. Call Ruger. If they think you have a legitimate
problem you would probably only have to send them the cyl
for finish reaming.
 
I've saved several 22 revolvers that were hard to use by simply cutting patches from a lead wipe away cloth and using them to clean the chambers. It takes several patches per chamber usually, then clean the chambers as usual. Rinse and repeat as necessary.

My 1953, 22 Combat Masterpiece I about had to beat the empties out with a hammer, but now it just takes a flick of the ejector rod. I've used it on other 22's also.
 
Couple of thoughts based on my experience of owning and selling " a few" Single Six's . I still keep an old 3 unmodified 3 screw alog with a collection of 22Victory and Ruger MK IV's.
1) You could polish the cylinders in your SS with flitz and a patched bore brush on a drill. I've done it. Go slow and pay attention and it works.
2) A blued 80's vintage SS with just the one cylinder would sell for $350 in our shot IF it were excellent + condition. They are not in demand like they used to be though and the market seems to shrink every year.
( especially without the second cylinder)

As for comparison of the SS, MKIV and Victory, they are like apples, oranges and bannana's. All nice in their own way but intended for different purposes. I never had a single six that could keep up accuracy wise with any of my MK series pistols in the accuracy department. IMHO, Few will keep up with a new SW Victory either ( I've recently compared a brand new SS (scoped) hunter with my victory's and MK II/IV's. The over sized barrel on the SS is likely the culprit.
 
I'd give Ruger a call and see what they say. I bought a Single Ten when they first came out, and it had 2 or 3 tight chambers too. I called Ruger, got an RMA, and had it back in under two weeks, with no problems since.

Granted, your gun isn't new, but the phone call is free and they just might take care of it. My Single Ten doesn't get much use since i got tired of single loading/unloading and bought a S&W 617-6 instead. If you want a revolver, I'd lean that way. I have a Buck Mark, a Ruger Mark IV Target and my Significant Other has a S&W Victory. Both are nice, but if I had to choose between them, I'd get a Buck Mark; then I'd get the Victory. Then the Mark IV.
 
Not all extra cylinders need to be fitted.
I bought a nice single six years ago, and I already had an extra magnum cylinder that happily fit it perfectly.

Maybe I was just lucky, I dunno.
 
A Single Six convertible is a handy gun and quite versatile. I've had this old model Super for years, and it's surprisingly accurate with either LR or magnum rounds. Fun gun, for sure.

John

SINGLE_SIX_CONVERTIBLE_zps1ovcwppj.jpg
 
These are quite versatile;one quality any semi doesn't have.
While mine has the Mag cyl,it is mostly used with shorts in the regular cyl. since this is the one it is the most accurate with and that I have a supply of over 6k rounds of it left.
Great to teach younguns and to cure a bad case of flinchitis after a lenghty session of full blown magnums.
 
You can rent a 22lr reamer for $34 plus shipping from 4D Reamer Rentals. A can of something like Rapid tap cutting oil, a small tap handle and your in business. Its easy and it will remove a little bit of metal from a tight chamber. S&W revolvers are know for tight 22lr chambers and I have done mine. Several threads on how to on this site. The amount of metal removed is really small, but it is effective.

But, make sure your problem isn't a dirty cylinder first. A 25 cal. brass brush soaked in Hoppe and a few seconds per cylinder should clean the chambers.
 
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