Rust Paranoia: CLP, Silicone, Ren Wax ??

[flundertaker]

living on the ocean and seeing the effects of salt air on all sort of metal has me seriously paranoid about the effects it could have on my guns. They are all kept in a safe (with goldenrod) in an indoor room with a dedicated dehumidifier. The temp in the room is usually between 78-82* and the humidity fluctuates from 35-45% depending on the time of year and atmospheric conditions. Still I have a fear of rust primarily because some of my revolvers came to me with some on them.

my question is what is the best product to put of them after handling and when they are put in the safe. I have used CLP as well as wiped them down with a silicone cloth. I bought a small jar of Renaissance wax but have yet to use it because I am not sure how to. Does it replace CLP or other protectant?

I would appreciate hearing back from some guys who either live in high humidity or salt air environments on what your regular routine is to keep the finishes of blued guns safe from rust and looking good without have them dripping with oil making handling a mess.

 

[358156hp]

They don't have to be dripping wet with oil. Just a light coat, applied with a clean bore patch, with the remainder wiped off after the gun sits for a few minutes (not really necessary). Don't forget the bore and chambers.

 

[JohnK]

I clean with CLP, wipe lightly, and use Renaissance Wax.

It's easy to apply, use your finger to pick up a little, and spread around. Polish with a clean t-shirt, or some such.

You are done.

 

[rck281]

For guns that are never to be shot, I have used Rig grease. I would think it would be good for at least 20 years.

 

[-db-]

RIG is your friend.

 

[armenius]

In years past I always had a problem with fingerprint and other rust in spite of oil wipe or silicon pad.Then I discovered Birchwood Casey Sheath,which now is called Barrier,and got excellent results.Not too greasy and eventually gets pretty dry.After a while on "the forum" I learned about Renisaince Wax and have been very happy with the appearance,dry to touch and rust resistance.

 

[kennyb]

use the renaissance wax...think of it like this...you don't wipe your car with a oily rag to protect it...you wax it....apply the wax lightly with your finger...when it hazes over...polish with a soft,clean cloth

 

[Florida J Frame]

Ren Wax . . .no rust problems in SW Fla

 

[tlay]

Use the Ren wax. You need only a little and buff with an old T shirt. Also use it on the wood grips. I like to take the cylinder out and do the ejector rod and the inside of the cylinder also. You can use it inside the barrel if it is "new"clean. Don't use it there if the barrel is dirty.

 

[358156hp]

You seriously wax the insides of the chambers? I'd be concerned about case setback.

 

[tlay]

I have had no problem with setback on any that I have done. Works really well on 357s that you shoot 38 special in. They don't foul as much. Probably the same for 44 mag.

 

[rck281]

I have trouble getting the Ren Wax out of the lettering. It seems to turn white in the lettering. It's a lot of trouble digging it out with a toothpick. How do you prevent that?

 

[H Richard]

When you are applying it use very small amounts, and "rub" it in. That usually keeps it from building up in the lettering. Also, don't let it get too dry before polishing it out. Just like some auto wax's, the longer it sits, the harder it sets and the more effort it takes to polish it out.

 

[Cpo1944]

I agree with the Ren wax recommendations it`s really great, but if you apply it too heavily and it dries cloudy/white, just apply some more and wipe it off while it`s still wet. I know it`s counter intuitive - you got too much and you put on some more on, but that`s how it works.
Jack

 

[chief38]

LONG TERM STORAGE: RIG UNIVERSAL GREASE

SHORT TERM STORAGE: RIG #2 OIL

 

[NZshooter]

https://www.zcorrproducts.com/

 

[gwpercle]

Birchwood Casey Sheath or Barrier is less messy than grease. It is a spray that leaves a thin wax coating...I like it. Ren Wax is good if you can afford it. Automotive wax is a good substitute in a pinch ( something with a lot of carnuba wax in it like Mother's ). You want something like a wax that doesn't evaporate ( WD40 will evaporate).
Another product that works well is Turtle Wax Chrome Polish and Rust Remover. It cleans and leaves a protective coat on the metal.
living in South Louisiana with blued S&W's and high humidity is a rust nightmare.

 

[Harrison]

For long term storage ditto: Rig grease

For short term storage/frequent use, light coat of favorite gun oil.

Guns that don't get used a lot and are not for home-personal protection live in a gun safe with a goldenrod.

My house is within 25 yards of salt water, and I do not have a rust problem.

 

[texasjarhead]

Anybody try a product called "Fluid Film"? It's a lanolin-based spray that was originated for marine applications to prevent rust in salt water areas. I just started using it, and really like it- especially for long guns. It's good protection for the metal, but also dooes a nice job on wood too.

 

[ridgewalker]

Anybody try a product called "Fluid Film"? It's a lanolin-based spray that was originated for marine applications to prevent rust in salt water areas. I just started using it, and really like it- especially for long guns. It's good protection for the metal, but also dooes a nice job on wood too.

I tried a lanolin based oil a few years ago and found a big problem was it was a dust magnet. Needless to say I stopped using it. It was Inox brand.