Rust Prevention - WD 40

I've never had any trouble with wiskey delta four zero. In fact I used some this morning as part of the gunk removal from a 90 year old K frame that did not appear to have ever had the screws turned. I did not leave any WD-40 in the action but I don't like wet lubes in my actions. I personally suspect that leaving a wet solvent of any type in the lock work continues to work dissolving stuff and then evaporates leaving behind a concentrated layer of caked up stuff. I'm sure some are worse than others but hosing down any action with a solvent then just leaving it is a bad idea. IMNAAHO
 
I tend to agree with bagolden's assesment that it disolves and loosens caked up crud in the action. Not properly cleaned out, it spreads out nicely and then is left to reharden/thicken as the WD40 solvent evaporates.

I've used it for many years to initially clean out a dirty action or part, loosen screws and parts up, etc.. It's not a substitute for a good long term lube, but will do for some short term non critical applications.

It's very useful for it's WD namesake of removing water from parts that have taken an untimely dunking. Excellent oil for 'stoning'.

It's not quite the magic liquid some forever lengthening lists seem to tout it as. But it is generally inexpensive and useful for what it does and doesn't smell all that bad compared to some of the other options.

As bad as some feel it is,,it's very useful in initially cleaning/clearing up a Parker shotgun that was oiled up and set away in storage with the Parker Factory recommended lube.....'3 in 1 oil'.
But I do follow it up with another lube for operation and storage afterwards.

Nothings perfect.
 
Originally posted by handejector:
If WD-40 or a hammer won't fix it, it can't be fixed!
icon_biggrin.gif
Click to expand...

Have you been talking to my 90-yr old mother?
icon_smile.gif
 
Two rules to live by:
1) If it won't move and it should, use WD 40.
2) If it moves and it shouldn't, use Duct Tape.
icon_smile.gif
icon_biggrin.gif
icon_smile.gif

Don
 
Ok, from Snopes... we find that the fish oil idea is just bogus. I've read (and not checked with any reliable source) this is at least the 3rd forumula of "WD40" we can purchase. The first one is widely thought to have a base of varnish. It did tend to gum if repeatedly used without removal of prior coatings.

We also have no idea if the gum people have found is the WD itself, other lubricants or solvents that its dissolved, or something completely different. No one seems to have the ability to investigate this stuff. We all tend to believe what we want without any consideration of what really took place.

WD40 is a great thin lubricant for very short term use. Its not as good as penetrating oil on rusted or frozen bolts. But the penetrating oil isn't as good for any lubrication uses. Even water is a decent lubricant for a few things. WD40 may last a few days to a week or two.

What I've always operated under is the assumption that if you use WD in a pinch, when you get out of the pinch, use an appropriate solvent to remove it and put a more appropriate long term lubricant or protectant for the job at hand.

Then another consideration is everyones uses or needs the same? What's the weather outside? How hot or cold will it be getting while my product is still on the surface? If there is blowing dirt or dust, is a wet lubricant a good thing? But by far the most important question seems to be "what do I have avaiable, right now?" If I've got nothing, what are my chances of getting something better than WD at the only convenience store for 50 miles?

Finally, is the gum we've found on a gun we've just bought really WD40? Or do we blame every conceivable ill we find on it because its fun?
 
Dick, Well stated. I've found it to be an excellent product. I have found its' best gun use is as a surficant cleaner with OOOO steel wool to remove minor rust/staining.
 
Originally posted by rimfired:
with OOOO steel wool
Click to expand...

Have you ever tried brass wool? Its less abrasive than steel wool. Steel wool and stainless wool have different qualities. Using a lubricant like WD or any other oil seems to prevent some or most of the transfer to the surface. If you use it dry, you end up almost plating the surface with transfered wool material. Its best to minimize it.
 
Originally posted by rburg:
We also have no idea if the gum people have found is the WD itself, other lubricants or solvents that its dissolved, or something completely different.
Click to expand...
Back in the 1980s somebody gave me a bulk pack of X-acto knife blades. I dumped them into a tray in a plastic parts cabinet. To prevent rust, I sprayed a lot of WD-40 all over them. A couple of years later, when I finally needed an X-acto blade, I found them very tightly stuck together by a stiff, gummy substance. Maybe that "gum" was a reaction of the plastic with the WD-40, but I doubt it.
 
WD 40 will get somewhat gummy, and eventualy harden up. (after several months/yrs) If you use it on something you clean often, no problem.

For firearms use there are much better lubricants/rust preventatives. But WD40, will work.

For door hinges, etc. WD 40 is a 'wonder chemical.' It even smells nice.
 
For 20 years, I have used a gun soak that works on the cruddiest and oldest guns. In a 50 cal ammo can, half WD-40, half kerosene and about 2 cups of Marvel Mystery Oil. If you soak a gun, and then scrub it, all the grime, dried oil, everything comes out. Blow it out with compressed air or a blow drier and its done. You can go through with the lubricating oil of your choice later if you want, but, its servicable right out of the tank.

Some really old gunsmith gave me the recipe years ago. It works, and, it works well. If my guns get caught in a downpour, they get dunked and blown out. I have never had one rust.
 
I will not let WD 40 anywhere near any of my guns.

Not because it will gum up (it will, though), but because it simply is too thin. It is NOT a good lubricant, NOR is it a good rust preventative. It is a penetrating oil, and that's about it. It is too thin and runny, and it will run off...taking any good oil or grease that was on the gun along with it. Because it will run off, it leaves the metal bare.

I used to work for a company that sold industrial sewing machines. We had several of different types set up as display models or for whatever other purposes, and they were over in the warehouse. They were perfectly fine as they were, but I was ordered to take some WD40, spray them down "so they wouldn't rust". Well, I did it, and within days...Rust City. Any good oil that was on them ran off with the WD 40.

It's just too blame thin. It does do fairly well as a quenching oil. Otherwise, I have no use for it.
 
I blissfully used WD-40 on guns for years and thought it was great and never had the slightest hint of a problem. Suddenly I started reading all kinds of negative stuff from "gun experts" that it was better to use sulfuric acid on guns than WD-40! It was awful stuff that would destroy ammunition and gun finishes from fifty feet away and would not prevent rust in a desert. I just ignored all that advice and continued using it for all sorts of things, and twenty-five years later I still haven't had a problem. Still waiting for disaster to strike......
 
n4zov,
Like you, I'm (evidentally) an ignoramus when it comes to uses for WD-40.
Actually used it to DE-gum the third lock on a Triplelock years ago.
Son of a gun...the TL continues to work flawlessly, and I continue to bumble around my shop...
Don
 
Trap shooters used to love it, they sprayed their guns down librally after a shoot. I worked in the gunsmithing department of Browning Arms and cleaned lots of WD-40 varnish out of the actions of BT99 trap guns. Most had been rendered inoperable by the sticky crud.
 
I've found WD-40 helpful in removing the last traces of Cosmoline from a firearm.
icon_cool.gif
Seems someone told me the primary base/carrier was kerosene-related.

Wouldn't dream of using it as an all-purpose lubricant on anything that isn't cleaned and re-lubed every week. It's absolutely deadly if sprayed into the 'innards' of a revolver...turns to sludge, then gum, then varnish. Complete lockup.

Don't much like that 3-in-1 oil, either...same sort of progression.

When such great products as Butch's and Break-Free CLP are available, why bother with the marginal stuff?

If you like mixing your own, try finding the Ed's Red recipe.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Stu1205
You Just Might Be A Gun Nut If.....
Replies
16
Views
5K
jeepjeepwhat
jeepjeepwhat

Latest posts

Back
Top