Rust removal? Now with pictures.

[Retired LTC USAR]

Gong to clean up one 22 rifle and one shotgun for a friend. There is rust on both guns.

Researched some threads and wanted to see if using bronze wool (fine grade) and Mobile 1 full synthetic oil would be an acceptable combination to remove the rust?

Some wanted pictures. Here they are.

 

[murphydog]

I would probably use a very light abrasive polish first (several members here recommend blue Wenol, I use Renaissance Pre-Lim) and then move to your method. Neither should take off the factory finish with careful use.

 

[Mike-AK]

Big 45 pad and Kroil.

 

[7.62match]

Fine bronze wool and kroil.

 

[diyj98]

Bronze wool works great.

 

[DWalt]

Any type of oil you have handy will work with copper or brass wool. So will bore cleaner.

 

[2152hq]

I still use 0000 Steel Wool and plenty of most any kind of oil.
Nothing fancy. WD-40,,,3'n1,,real gun oil,,motor oil,,etc.
That's work for me for 50+ yrs with no complaints.

Don't scrub too hard, let the oil and wool work together to remove the rust.
Pits and rust damage will always be there.

 

[Narragansett]

I wrap the rusted area in gauze or rag strips, and then soak with kroil and let it sit a couple days. Then go over the area with kroil and medium bronze wool. No steel wool

 

[chief38]

I believe in using the least abrasive methods first and progress as needed or desired. I will start with gun oil and a 100% twilled cotton cleaning patch in 12 Gauge. If that doesn't work, I still use 0000 steel wool and oil. As long as all the steel wool fibers are removed with oil, no rusting will occur. It's when little tiny pieces of the steel are left on the gun, rust could form again. If you do use steel, clean it off a few times to make sure nothing remains behind. 0000 steel wool does a very good job if used properly.

I do have and use Copper and Bronze wool also, however I do not care for the thickness and coarseness of it so I only use it on occasion.

Once the rust is successfully removed, keep a light coating of oil on it to prevent it from returning.

On Nickel, Flitz and a microfiber rag work well.

Whatever method is used, proceed gently and cautiously - check work often and don't go too far!

 

[JH1951]

I would like to see what rust you are dealing with prior to making a recommendation. Can you post some pictures?
You have received several good suggestions above (and a few I would not recommend).
My decision on what approach to take would be weighted by 'just what are these guns?' Are they collectibles, shooters, field guns, and so on. I like to preserve as much original finish as possible if there is any value in doing so.
For me, the 'situation' dictates the method, and there are many methods. Almost all of my approaches begin with a good long soaking in a mixture of ATF, Marvel Mystery Oil, Kroil, and Berkbile carb varnish remover. Sometimes it ends there. My most radical and harsh method ends up with a trip to the media blaster (and there are many media options available for use in the blasting cabinet). Very few pieces go to the cabinet. Any suggestion should begin with the questions 'What is it, and what do you want in the end?' and go from there. Feel free to PM me.

 

[2152hq]

From the pics,,I'd wipe the metal down with oil first and let it sit for a while so the rust soaks it up.
I'm not picky about what oil, most any seem to work for this. But many have a favorite.

Then use 0000 Steel wool or Bronze wool with some oil in the wool itself as well to lightly scrub down the metal.
That'll loosen a lot of what you see.
Then wipe that sludge off with paper towels.


Don't be tempted to use any grit paper on the surfaces, even with oil. That will immedietely scratch through the bluing that remains.

Reapply oil and go after the heavy rust that the wool won't move.
For that I use a copper penny.
With plenty of oil on the heavily rusted spot, use the edge of the Penny to scrape the rust free of the surface.
The soft copper won't harm the steel or Bluing ,,if there is any bluing left underneath there.
Make sure it's a real older Copper penny and not one of the newer Bi-Metal types that are (I think ) Aluminum with a copper plating or some such thing.
Real Copper!

Any copper streaks left behind by the work you do with the Penny will wipe right off when you go back over the metal once again with the Steel or Bronze Wool with Oil and rub the metal down again to remove more of the rust.
This second and third pass will pull more and more rust from the surface.

Any pits under the rust will still be there. The heavier rusted areas will likely come out as 'in the white' steel w/ no color. Sometimes they remain a dark grey.

The overall looks of the gun can be greatly improved by the rust removal. It won't bring them back to factory new in this instance but you will be surprised at the change.

 

[DWalt]

If you have a larger diameter brass bore brush, that will be a suitable substitute for brass wool.

 

[67tempest]

I was given a VZ24 Mauser rifle by a co-worker that had been in his fathers basement since he brought it home from Japan after WW2. When I received the rifle it was covered in a coating of orange rusty fuzz. I pulled the rifle out of the stock and went over it with Kroil and 0000 bronze wool. When I was finished it looked like new, the bluing was still intact with no hint that it had ever been a rusty mess.

 

[Racer X]

Big 45 pad and Kroil.

the go-to for crusty barn .22 rimfires! And if you don't have a real copper penny, a flattened mouth brass shell casing works just as well.

 

[chief38]

After seeing your now posted pictures I can see the rust is a bit worse than I had imagined and is in my opinion a bit more serious than just removing a light rust deposit and keeping it oiled.

After removing all the rust I believe the firearms need to be refinished, one way or another. While professional refinishing may be out of the question because of expense, you might look into a do-it yourself spray finish such as Dura-coat or something similar that you can do. With such extensive rusting, if the metal isn't refinished somehow I believe the rust will return in short order. Not saying you need to spend a lot, but the steel will need some protective coat of something.

 

[DWalt]

I have cleaned up guns in much worse condition with oil and brass wool. Then hit it with some cold blue if needed. The worst I ever had was an extremely rusty S&W 916 12 gauge pump shotgun I bought at a yard sale for $15. It looked like it had been left outside in the weather for the last 20 years, but it still functioned. But that one required wet or dry abrasive paper to remove all the rust. Also had to re-finish the wood. Went over it several times with Oxpho Blue. It looked very good after I was finished. Not like new, but nothing to be ashamed of. It did take a lot of time.

 

[chief38]

I have cleaned up guns in much worse condition with oil and brass wool. Then hit it with some cold blue if needed. The worst I ever had was an extremely rusty S&W 916 12 gauge pump shotgun I bought at a yard sale for $15. It looked like it had been left outside in the weather for the last 20 years, but it still functioned. But that one required wet or dry abrasive paper to remove all the rust. Also had to re-finish the wood. Went over it several times with Oxpho Blue. It looked very good after I was finished. Not like new, but nothing to be ashamed of. It did take a lot of time.

I agree that Cold Bluing would look much better in the short term, however I have never had much luck with it in the longevity department. I've cleaned the metal properly before bluing, I have used a hair dryer to heat up the metal, applied multiple coats, then rinsed with water and oiled. While results are positive in the beginning, after a few Range trips and cleanings the cold blue wears off quickly. If the firearms in question are not going to be used often, then bluing might be the way to go. Maybe it's just me...... however I've pretty much given up on cold bluing in all but small mostly untouched areas. The cold bluing I use is Oxpho blue paste, Birchwood-Casey blue paste, and I have also tried other brands as well. No great success stories to tell.

While the Dura-coat and clones would not look original at all, they would probably be more durable and keep the rust at bay for longer periods of time. Admittedly, I have never used Dura-coat or any spray-on finish, but I have heard very good results here on the forum. If the prep work is done properly I would think the rust would be gone.

 

[Narragansett]

That looks like a Remington 510, 511 or 512. I still recommend my original method for rust removal with Kroil. The only thing I would add is a small stiff bronze brush. Make sure you really wet the pitting. Let the Kroil work for a few days. Keep it wet.

2 years ago, I did 5 Remington 510's

 

[raljr1]

I did one for my brother that he thought was junk. I used 0000 steel wool and cold bluing. I heated the parts before bluing them and did several coats. Also had to do some work to the stock. He could not believe the difference. An I am by no means a gun finisher.

 

[oysterer]

Rust removal

a question for Alec Baldwin