The most rusted stainless steel gun I have ever seen in person - a PSA!

[Mark IV]

Years ago, I got into nicer air rifles, and I started using a protecting oil made by Beeman, that was highly recommended on the forums. While the airgun phase eventually passed, I still have and use that oil, particularly on the bores and exteriors of blued guns, put away in their cases. I've left guns stored this way for way longer than I should've ( like 1-2 years!) but I've never once had a bad surprise when I inspecting a gun with this oil on it. The stuff is super-thin, and always feel like a insufficient coating, but somehow it works great. It appears to be discontinued ( like so many other products that didn't cost a fortune, and actually worked.)
It's this stuff here......

 

[Taj]

In the days when I was still pushing a black & white around a couple of friends bought the "new" S&W model 66's for duty guns. These guys were motor cops for a local beach agency and they were always having issues with their duty guns corroding. They figured the 66's would be immune to the salt air in their beat. Boy did they get an education. They figured that they'd never have to do even routine maintenance because they were stainless steel. They came to me because I was a gunsmith and an S&W revolver armorer. I had to explain the facts of life to them in regards to SS guns. WE also had a guy we nicknamed "Pigpen" from the Charlie Brown comics. Great guy but he could put on a $600 Brooks Brother's suit and in 10 minutes you'd have sworn he slept in it. He also purchased a new model 66 because the backstrap of his model 19 had been literally eaten away from just contact with his skin. He did the same thing to his model 66. I think the guy could lower the PH in a swimming pool just by getting in it.

 

[bph9]

NEVER store guns with rubber grips mounted!!!

John

Normally I am all for going all out to prevent rust but the good news is I have used rig gun grease under rubber grips and under the rubber dust caps on M1 Carbine mags. In no case did I ever get rust and I live in Ohio which is more humid than the Amazon Jungle by far. Having said all that taking off the grips is still probably the best idea.

 

[bph9]

Years ago, I got into nicer air rifles, and I started using a protecting oil made by Beeman, that was highly recommended on the forums. While the airgun phase eventually passed, I still have and use that oil, particularly on the bores and exteriors of blued guns, put away in their cases. I've left guns stored this way for way longer than I should've ( like 1-2 years!) but I've never once had a bad surprise when I inspecting a gun with this oil on it. The stuff is super-thin, and always feel like a insufficient coating, but somehow it works great. It appears to be discontinued ( like so many other products that didn't cost a fortune, and actually worked.)
It's this stuff here......
View attachment 783855

One of the most sorrowful chapters in Air gun History is when Mr. Beeman retired. He built up an Airgun Empire and provided everything under the sum for air guns. He sold out to two different companies and tired to council them as to how to continue his success in the Airgun market. Naturally they totally ignored him and today almost all the accessories Beeman sold are no longer being imported and or sold by them. I miss the neat pellet skirt flaring tool he sold along with the various special oils, cleaning fluids and greases he sold. Few people realize that the use of the wrong oil or cleaning fluid on an air gun can and will destroy its seals. Also Beeman employed two full time Airgun Smiths that would fix about any air gun you sent in to them. All that is now gone with the wind.

 

[picker77]

NEVER store guns with rubber grips mounted!!!

John

Hmm... You guys made me go look, ha. My faithful old Model 63 No-dash of 1981 vintage has worn Pachmayr "Professionals" since the 90's. Still not a blemish anywhere on the frame that could be called rust or stain. Maybe it depends on the alloy mix being used at the time of mfr, and I just got lucky.. Still better to be safe than sorry.

 

[dfariswheel]

Rubber grips won't necessarily allow rusting, but it is more prone.
The problem is that rubber won't absorb moisture like most wood grips do and that causes rusting.

Anytime you handle a pistol when your hand is moist or sweaty and that seeps under the grips you're at risk.

A thin layer of wax, thicker oil or grease can seal the metal and protect it.
I like wax because unlike oils and light greases, wax won't dry out, evaporate, or creep away.

Master metal finisher APW/Cogan says the most durable gun of them all is a stainless gun with a coating of hard chrome.

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

Stainless is not rust proof.

Many of the first stainless steel S&W revolvers were victims of neglect.

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

Hmm... You guys made me go look, ha. My faithful old Model 63 No-dash of 1981 vintage has worn Pachmayr "Professionals" since the 90's. Still not a blemish anywhere on the frame that could be called rust or stain. Maybe …

It's all about taking care of firearms and you do a great job maintaining yours. Thank you for sharing.

 

[crasig]

Some of the early stainless self loaders were prone to galled ways. My early AMT Hardballer 1911 was galled. it was finally learned that using 2 different alloys together worked better. ALSO using 40w Mobil 1 stopped it. Even though my Hardballer was loosly fitted, & galled, It was my most accurate 1911. The worst RUST magnet is storing handguns in leather holsters - I've seen some pitted, ruined classics like that. It's the Tanic Acid in the Leather.

 

[picker77]

Bought this Model 63 in '93 from a pawn shop in Cody, Wyoming. I traded a nice 4506 for it after I started running a modest trapline in the Shell Creek valley, and the 4506 was a poor choice for dispatching coons and foxes at near point blank range. Effective, but hard on fur. Never really regretted the trade because this outstanding little kit gun has been such a sweet field companion and all-around farm/ranch pistol ever since. It will serve one of my sons equally well one day soon, and a grandson and a great grandson are in line after that. If anybody runs across a clean shooter grade Model 63 I recommend grabbing it.

 

[Lance Boyle]

A good trick to protect carbon and stainless steel guns from rusting under the grips is to apply coat of wax like Renaissance Museum wax to the area covered by the grips.
Don't wipe this coat off, just let dry 20 minutes or so then remount the grips.
The wax seals the metal from moisture.

Don't use auto wax, it's not usable for this purpose.
Since I used up the last of my Johnson's Paste Wax and it's discontinued I'm using Min-Wax Paste Finishing Wax.

That's what I do, currently with the Minwax as Johnson is sadly gone.

I have to as I sweat! I used to work in a gun shop and even today when looking at a gun I hand it back to the counter man and suggest they wipe it down as I always have a trace of salty sweat on my hands. A gun shop gun could sit three days or three weeks before being touched again and I'd hate to damage a gun.